I blew a hole through my ka24de block by doing this. After later inspection it seems my oil was very thin and smelt a lot like fuel making it not work the way it's supposed to.
Here is the gapping glory hole. If you look close you can see the hayman.
Theres a drift event about 6 weeks away what do? Im essentially broke. My budget to get this running again is 400$. I mean.. With that o could just buy another de and swap it it.. But why? I have a complete sohc ka sitting on my garage floor.. But what fun would that be. Ok ill fuse the blown de and e together to make a Frankenstein drift motor. That sounds reliable right? The e pistons are more of a flat top anyway and with the de head it will increase the comp ratio to maybe 11.4 ta 1 that sounds like it could be fun. The block specs are mostly the same i think. Thus everything south of the head will be e and the rest will stay de. What what about timing covers and chains they are different? Oh well ill just wing it.
The headgaskets of both line up almost exactly except for the timing cover section. The Oil passages and cooling galleries all line up.
First i will prep the head. High comp means higher cylinder temps and higher knock risk. Ive never ported a head before but i ported and polished the exhaust to help pump out those hot exhaust gases and smooth up the chambers to tell carbon build up to go away. 15$ for dremal bits
I had my head decked 16thou(max nissan recommends) at CORDS machine shop in Victoria bc ( awesome guys) and had the machinist touch up the area where the piston punched the head when my rod broke. 100$ Labour
Next i bought a head gasket ( either e or de could have worked ) e was cheaper but still 50$. I cut the headgasket where it seals the timing cover and made an aluminum adapter plate that could link the e lower timing cover and de upper timing cover. There is no way i could have used the de lower cover on the block for multiple reasons and vise versa with the head. I doused the plate with right stuff hope it seals.
here is de upper cover over e lower cover
The distance from the crank midpoint to the deck in the same on both blocks thus i need to use the de chains. The chain tensioners and guides i had to mix and match. De straight lower guide, e tensioner, de curved guide. The lower tensioner i had to shave like crazy to allow clearance of the unfamiliar upper chain. The e tensioner contact didnt match the de guide contact point so i moved the contact point by welding a new one on.
needed the 90 deg heater adapter from the de e is straight.
chain guide with new contact patchI investigated the 2000-2004 frontier ka's lower timing cover. They have same lower timing gasket as the e and same head gasket as the de. Making it the holy grail its exactly what i need ( no cutting head gaskets) but cant find one easily or cheap so eff that im broke.
The challenging part of all this is i am also going to want power steering. Pump is on the intake side for e and exhaust for de. Since i dont run ac i made a plate and bolted it to the ac mount points on the de and welded bar to ps bracket. Since the ac mount points on the e are the same i should be able to run the ps on the e in the de location right? This bracket looks heinous btw
The e diZzy spout gets in the way of the ps pump in the de location so i shaved it off and plugged it. Since im not running e dizzy i cut the drive rod that is shared by the oil pump to keep it better balanced.
I want to keep my knock sensor. The e doesnt have one. So i welded a mount point to the block on the intake side between cyl 3 and 4 because thats where i would be most prone to knock (ty warren)
I added a reflective alum tape to the intake to reflect the heat put and keep incoming air as cool as i can. Might make a meth injection system if knock is an issue.
Deleted every useless egr components and coolant lines under the intake. With everything simplified i get more working room and less chance of headaches. Got an adjustable fpr to increase fuel pressure to help keep cylinder walls a little cooler. Oem tune should be fine. Used heat range 6 ngk plugs.
Got hockey puck motor mounts for ultra stiffies
Also welded trans mount
Alos got a lightened flywheel 11lb
Put it all together and ready to drop in. Drift event is next weekend. Will i make it?
Last 2 nights prior to track day i was well into the night with the help of some buddies getting the motor running. Power steering pulley landed in the same plane as the alt and water pump so i plasma cut slots into the bracket a made ( as if it wasnt ugly already). I can now use the ps pump on its own belt on the back groove of the crank. ( belt will be the same length as alt ) .
Car now works well and i made it to the track and drifted it all day. It started acting boggy by the end of the day. Seems knock sensor is throwing ecu into knock map.. Code 34. Bogging would happen intermittently and more so at lower rpms and seem to break out of it as revs went up. I called it a day.. It seems like something chill but dont know for sure. Ill update
Here is the motor doing work. The gf also paint the car with acrylics !
150$ flywheel
100$ head labour
50$ head gasket
40$ afpr
15$ plugs
5$ front main seal
15$ oil pump valve set from nissan
15$ ps belt
400$ reached +
Some misc expenses + flywheel isnt really part of essential build.
To answer any questions i did cause broke and i had the parts and i just wanted too.
Next time ill probs just find a free de block.
I reused my head bolts they seemed to measure fine. Couldnt really measure any stretch from yielding.
