check engine light prob.
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90nissan240sx
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:57 pm
- Car: 90 Nissan 240sx
check engine light prob.
I bought a 90 nissan 240sx, and the check engine light is on...The code is a fuel injector leak, i replaced the injectors and the fuel pump and some other stuff that needed to be replaced.Venom injectors a walbro fuel pump,O2 sensor a new MAF and a ECT... The light is still on any ideas?
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vancouverbc
- Posts: 3197
- Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:30 am
- Car: 1991 240sx
Re: check engine light prob. (90nissan240sx)
did you use new o-rings. did you lubricate o-rings.
Re: check engine light prob. (vancouverbc)
Did you reset it after you replaced everything?
-Jerome
-Jerome
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victormotorsports
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:19 pm
- Car: 90 NISSAN 240 SX, 01 lexus IS 300, 06 acura mdx, 01 honda cbr 929rr
Re: check engine light prob. (90nissan240sx)
where is there a check engine light on your car?
Re: check engine light prob. (victormotorsports)
In the dash....victormotorsports wrote:where is there a check engine light on your car?
-Jerome
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90nissan240sx
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:57 pm
- Car: 90 Nissan 240sx
Re: check engine light prob. (vancouverbc)
yes i did...
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90nissan240sx
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:57 pm
- Car: 90 Nissan 240sx
Re: check engine light prob. (JeromeS13)
yep it will turn off foe about 25 miles then pop back on...
Re: check engine light prob. (90nissan240sx)
I had a similar problem on a KA24DE. Come to find out, one of my gaskets were torn (not the O-ring, but the gasket between the intake manifold and injector). Be careful and spray some carb cleaner around the injectors. If you get a raise in RPM out of it, that's the one that has the issue. (Thats how I found my leak).
-Jerome
-Jerome
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90nissan240sx
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:57 pm
- Car: 90 Nissan 240sx
Re: check engine light prob. (JeromeS13)
k thanks man ill try it...i put new injectors and lubed the o-rings but thanks.
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vancouverbc
- Posts: 3197
- Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:30 am
- Car: 1991 240sx
Re: check engine light prob. (90nissan240sx)
you might try the fuel leak down test.
Black exhaust smoke tends to mean rich fuel condition. This coupled with low compression on #4 and a slow dieing of the engine suggests to me you possibly have a # 4 injector leaking fuel into the cyl. There is a couple things you can do to test here. Dont just start throwing parts at it. First redo your compression test.
Do it this way exactly. Warm the car to operating temp. once it reaches operating temp, while its running, pull the fuel pump fuse and let the car run till it dies, crank the car over a few more times to be sure all the fuel is drained from the fuel lines. pull your fuel cap off [ to prevet pressure from building in the tank pushing fuel in the rail while testing] Remove all 4 plugs, install your compression tester , start with number 4 and work forward. get in the car hold the throttel to the floor and crank it over for 5 secs [count it off]. Do that on all 4 cyls. See what kind of readings you get now. The reason you are redoing this in that fashion is if your fuel injector was leaking it would wash the cyl walls down giving you false compression readings. The next test you can do is a fuel leak down test. This is done with all the compression conditions reset to allow the car to run. Tee in a fuel pressure gauge inbetween the fuel filter and the injector rail. once installed and tightly sealed turn the key to the on position [dont start the car] the gauge should pop up to around 40 psi and hold. If after the pump shuts off [about 5 secs] the gauge starts to fall off rapidly or more then 10 psi in 10secs you have a leak down somewhere in the system. you now need to repeat the process but pinch off the fuel line between the fuel filter and your pressure gauge as soon as it reaches pressure. if it continues to leak down you have now eliminated the fuel pump check valve and your problem lies in the rail or the pressure regulator. If it didnt leak down you have a fuel pump check valve problem but that would not cause the problem you have. Just a leak down test diagnostic. If leak down still occured you now need to do the test again , this time pinch off the return line. If it still leaks down you need to redo the test and pinch both the lines . If at this point it still leaks down you have a leaking injector. If when you pinched the return line and it didnt leak down your pressure regulator is leaking, again that would not be the cause of your problem just leak down diag info. If you determine during this test you have leak down on the injectors I suspect #4 is your problem and that could be the cause of your run problems.
Now about your O2. Only after those 2 tests if you dont find anything wrong. then conduct this simple test to see if the O2 is causing a problem. simply disconnect it and see if the problem still exists. If it goes away and the car runs stable just slightly rich your O2 is likely phase shifted reading lean and is cauing the ECM to flood the enigine out to stall.
Black exhaust smoke tends to mean rich fuel condition. This coupled with low compression on #4 and a slow dieing of the engine suggests to me you possibly have a # 4 injector leaking fuel into the cyl. There is a couple things you can do to test here. Dont just start throwing parts at it. First redo your compression test.
Do it this way exactly. Warm the car to operating temp. once it reaches operating temp, while its running, pull the fuel pump fuse and let the car run till it dies, crank the car over a few more times to be sure all the fuel is drained from the fuel lines. pull your fuel cap off [ to prevet pressure from building in the tank pushing fuel in the rail while testing] Remove all 4 plugs, install your compression tester , start with number 4 and work forward. get in the car hold the throttel to the floor and crank it over for 5 secs [count it off]. Do that on all 4 cyls. See what kind of readings you get now. The reason you are redoing this in that fashion is if your fuel injector was leaking it would wash the cyl walls down giving you false compression readings. The next test you can do is a fuel leak down test. This is done with all the compression conditions reset to allow the car to run. Tee in a fuel pressure gauge inbetween the fuel filter and the injector rail. once installed and tightly sealed turn the key to the on position [dont start the car] the gauge should pop up to around 40 psi and hold. If after the pump shuts off [about 5 secs] the gauge starts to fall off rapidly or more then 10 psi in 10secs you have a leak down somewhere in the system. you now need to repeat the process but pinch off the fuel line between the fuel filter and your pressure gauge as soon as it reaches pressure. if it continues to leak down you have now eliminated the fuel pump check valve and your problem lies in the rail or the pressure regulator. If it didnt leak down you have a fuel pump check valve problem but that would not cause the problem you have. Just a leak down test diagnostic. If leak down still occured you now need to do the test again , this time pinch off the return line. If it still leaks down you need to redo the test and pinch both the lines . If at this point it still leaks down you have a leaking injector. If when you pinched the return line and it didnt leak down your pressure regulator is leaking, again that would not be the cause of your problem just leak down diag info. If you determine during this test you have leak down on the injectors I suspect #4 is your problem and that could be the cause of your run problems.
Now about your O2. Only after those 2 tests if you dont find anything wrong. then conduct this simple test to see if the O2 is causing a problem. simply disconnect it and see if the problem still exists. If it goes away and the car runs stable just slightly rich your O2 is likely phase shifted reading lean and is cauing the ECM to flood the enigine out to stall.