Check engine light is on Pep Boys says it's code p1447

[Freeze Time]

I think I have mentioned in the past that the check engine light would come on if I didn't click the gas cap after getting gas. It would go away after about 100 miles. Well, it came on again and this time, I have driven over 200 and it's still there. I went to Pep Boys and the code is p1447. My registration is due in May and I believe I need to get a smog test. I check the forums for this code but I couldn't seem to find a clear cut answer and if it's a cheap fix I can do on my own or if it's something I need to take to the mechanic. I have already put over $1000 into this car since I bought it 2 years ago so I hope this is a simple fix. Thanks in advance.

[04pathse]

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/ ... nd-valves/

[Freeze Time]

UGH. Another $300 and that's only if I do it myself??? I swear to the maker, this car is the most expensive car I've ever owned. Hell, I paid $1100 for a 94 Buick and owned that for 2 years and all I had to replace was the inside dash light for $144 and 3 tires. I owned a 90 Toyota pickup truck for a good 8 years and it only cost me a total of $1725 for repairs. I've already spent a little over $1000 on this qx4 and have only owned it for 2 years. I thought these cars were reliable and didn't constantly have problems. This car feels like a money pit:(

[yeldogt]

I have owned three 02's and they are very reliable .... your car is pushing 20 year old if it was an early 98 (19) ... anything can fail .. especially plastic and rubber.

[atraudes]

The charcoal in the canister can go bad not only with time, but if the previous owner liked to top up the gas tank. The excess gas will slosh into the EVAP system and break the charcoal down. That's the reason it's not recommended to do so on any car, not just these.

If you're concerned about cost, you can always try your luck on a used canister from eBay or a pick-a-part. It should at least get you past your emissions test.

[Freeze Time]

Thanks guys. I will take it to my mechanic soon and see what he suggests.

[Buzzman]

I couldn't seem to find a clear cut answer and if it's a cheap fix I can do on my own or if it's something I need to take to the mechanic. I hope this is a simple fix.

Unfortunately, from my experience, plus talking to the head tech at the dealership, and reading all the posts on this subject, there is no clear cut answer or easy fix for the evap codes.
The emissions system on these things suck.
The fault code will not affect how your truck runs or operates BTW. It will do no harm.
I've had this code pop up for years, and my tech said to not bother spending ridiculous money to chase or fix it.
My solution for passing emission tests is quite simple.
Here in Ontario, we have to get tested every two years.
I bought an OBDII code reader a few years back.
Just before taking it in for the test, I clear the codes (in the dealer parking lot, no less).
They bring the truck in, test it, pass it, and I'm on my way. Two days later, the SES light comes on again.
Once in a blue moon, the light will go out by itself, for maybe a week or two. It always comes back though.
Don't care. Runs great.
Cheers.

[Freeze Time]

I have known my mechanic for a very long time. I am sure he will clear it for me. If not, I will but an OBDII reader and do the same thing you did. Good to know it doesn't affect the car. That takes a load off my mind. Thanks for letting me know that.

[Freeze Time]

I am going to order this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LH ... t_vw_1_1_p
obd2 scanner. Just to make sure I understand this correctly, I simply clear the code right before I drive to get the smog check and as long as I don't fail for other reasons, I am good to go?

[atraudes]

The answer is it depends. Simply turning off the light won't let you pass emissions; the computer needs to finish all checks and set all readiness flags before the emissions place will accept the computer's report. If the light comes back on in the meantime, you won't be able to pass. Based on what Buzzman said, it sounds like it's worth a shot, but your mileage may vary.

That said, I own that scanner too so I can verify that it works and will turn the light off.

I know that in Washington if you can demonstrate with a repair estimate that the cost of repairs is above a certain amount, they'll wave you through. I only know this because the CEL was on when I bought mine because the catalytic converters needed to be replaced and the estimate was around $1500. So, something to look into.

This article does a pretty good job of going into the details on the CEL and emissions testing.

[Freeze Time]

How long do I need to drive it for the car to be ready to be tested? What will happen if I reset the light and go straight to get the car tested? It won't be able to do anything? Will the guy know I just turned off the light? Does it even matter?

[yeldogt]

The system will tell them it is not ready .. you can't clear the codes and take it in.

Now ......you can clear the codes and if you are lucky and the problem is intermittent .. the system will reset and you can take it in.

But ...If the problem is still live .. it will trigger after the reset.

[Freeze Time]

Hmmm, from what Buzzman posted, he clears the code right before he tests it and it passes. I guess things are different in Canada. I live in California. How long will I have to drive my qx4 before it is ready to be tested? I thought the whole point of getting the OBD2 meter is so I can clear the code so it doesn't automatically fail.

[yeldogt]

Some codes are intermittent. Are you sure the gasket on the gas cap is in good shape?

If you have an intermittent code --- it's just that ... not happening all the time. You can get lucky .. clear the codes and the problem does not happen again for a couple of weeks. My pathfinder sets off the light every blue moon .. I reset and don't see it for another year.

Some codes are permanent -- even if they are intermittent .... the code will say in the system and the light will stay on. Others will reset automatically when the system does not detect the problem for a number of start/ run cycles. Not having the cap on correctly is a code that will reset.

I don't know how long the cycle is for the Pathfinder after the codes are reset. One of my MB's took a couple 100 miles and over a week.

The point of the OBD reader is to read the codes to find out the problem. Then you reset the codes and see what comes back --- many times 2 or more codes are present when first read --- it's important to know what one is the first to cause a problem.

Buzzman must have had an intermittent code.

[Freeze Time]

Okay. The gas cap was causing a problem earlier when it wasn't at least clicked once after filling up with gas but the light always went away after like 120 miles or so. This time however, that code did not come up and the light has not gone off and I have driven about 400 miles.

[yeldogt]

Get the scanner -- read the codes. Make sure the cap, gasket and top of tank neck are clean. See what happens .... if the light comes back on . read the code immediately.

When a leak is suspected -- you get a smoke test done.

[Buzzman]

Hmmm, from what Buzzman posted, he clears the code right before he tests it and it passes. I guess things are different in Canada. I live in California. How long will I have to drive my qx4 before it is ready to be tested? I thought the whole point of getting the OBD2 meter is so I can clear the code so it doesn't automatically fail.

It's hard to say what process will work where.
Here in Canada, each province has their own system/laws for emissions testing.
I'm guessing that in the U.S. emissions testing and standards are a state to state system, and not national.

In Ontario, emissions testing is nothing more than the tech sticking a reader on the OBDII port and recording the results.
The days where they shoved a probe up the tail pipe and actually checked what was coming out of the exhaust are long gone. Stupid really.
As long as the SES light is off and the ECU is not throwing codes, you'll pass.
If the SES light is on, they don't even test it.
So, to clarify what I do, yes, I erase the codes after driving the truck and warming it up etc.
Then they bring it in, do their readings, and I pass.

Funny enough, my SES light has been off for a while now.
My resonator and exhaust pipe rusted off, so I have been driving around with nothing attached after the muffler for a while now.
Not sure if that's a coincidence, but it makes me think.
I don't drive it much, or for long trips, but I do keep my window cracked open, just in case any exhaust finds it way into the truck from underneath.
I plan to fix it when the weather gets warmer.
Cheers.

[Freeze Time]

The scanner came in the mail today. I followed the instructions but it won't erase my code. Keeps saying erase fail. I tried over and over again for 10 min. The same code, P1447, keeps coming up and my check engine light is still on and I go to erase and check yes and erase fail keeps showing up. What is going on? Did I just waste $15? This code can't be reset?

[Buzzman]

Don't understand why it doesn't erase. Should be no problem.
I have a basic reader as well, nothing fancy, and it works no problem.
You have to turn on the ignition to read and erase codes, at least with mine.
Are you doing that?

[Freeze Time]

I don't start the car so the engine comes on. I turn it on enough to where the radio comes on and all the dashboard lights. The reader behaves like it should. It powers up and reads the code but when I go to erase and then click yes, it always says erase fail.

[Buzzman]

Hmmm. Strange.
Maybe one way to test it out would be to go to a Pep Boys, or other similar place, and ask them to read and erase codes with their reader.
If theirs works, then I guess the reader you bought is not up to par.
Keep us posted.

[Freeze Time]

Pep Boys only reads the codes. They are not allowed to erase anymore. I made an appointment for tomorrow at 9am at AAMCO. The guy says he will do a free test and see if his machine can erase the code. I will let you know what happens.

[Freeze Time]

So AAMCO was able to get the light off. Told me what I already know. Leaking Evap. It will be $150 to do a smoke test if I want one. I will drive it around for a couple of miles and use my tester to see if it's ready to be smogged. Does everything have to say ready or yes for me to be able to get it smogged? The book says certain states will let you get smogged even if all the things aren't ready. I live in California. I guess worst thing that could happen is I go there and they say they can't test my car yet right?

[Buzzman]

Unfortunately, I know nothing about the California emissions testing process.
As I mentioned earlier, I have the same evap code showing up as you do.
I just clear my codes and then get it tested, and it passes every time.
I don't see how it can be a problem with yours if all the codes are cleared.
Good luck.

[Hawairish]

While not a cause of the code per the FSM, you could try changing the gas cap...$4 on Rock Auto. I had an evap code the other year (don't remember what it was), but it was resolved by a new gas cap. Otherwise, any smog station can probably pressure test it...but it's probably not worth the time to get it tested.

Have you looked at the FSM and tried the step-by-step diagnostic procedure for that code?

Couple guys said it: you won't be able to reset the code at the emissions station and expect it to pass. It will fail the Systems Readiness test, which is entirely emissions related. Half of them are "readied" almost immediately when the engine is started, some take a while. I've written up the procedure here before, and the readiness time/distance varies. I normally do it by-the-book (FSM) but have been able to ready it after resetting the code mid-drive around 75 mph.

[Freeze Time]

Well I have driven 12 miles so far and my OBD2 reader says cat and evap are not ready yet. I am wondering if the light will come back on before the system resets to get it tested. It's like both of them are battling or racing against each other lol. I need to renew by May 8th so I have some time to trouble shoot. One of the smog places I called told me just to tell him ahead of time about the resetting code and he will check that first before he does the actual test and tell me if it's ready or not.

[Freeze Time]

Okay so I've driven 42 miles and my tester says everything is ready except the cat. Does that need to be ready or can I go ahead and get it smogged?

[Hawairish]

All systems need to be ready.

[Freeze Time]

I have driven 120 miles since the check engine light got turned off. Good news is the light is still off. Bad news is the cat is still not ready so I can't get it tested yet. Good grief it takes a long time for the system to be ready.

[Hawairish]

oxygen-sensor-not-ready-no-ses-light-t603152.html

The driving pattern for making-ready all the systems is in the FSM, btw.