Check engine light code 13 ECT sensor and 51 injector analys

[darlenestar]

I purchased a 1991 Q45 with 160K miles. About four months later the engine would not crank/no start. Repair cost was prohibitive versus cars value. Eventually swapped out for a lower mileage engine (put on new spark plugs, belts, water pump). Later I found this forum and learned about the timing chain guides. That is probably what happened to the 1st engine and not sure about the second engine since it had already been installed.

After the engine exchange, the check engine light is on steady (it did go off and back on briefly a few times). Manually checking the ECU OBDI self-diagnosis red light displays codes 13 and 51. Cleaned off the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor blades as it was dirty. Without starting the car, rechecked the codes and only 51 injector analysis went away. Started the car later and again both codes 13/51 are there. Tried to Ohm the ECT and decided to change it out as preventative measure. Mechanic said the temperature was 176 when it is running/operating. Again, without starting, code 51 has gone away. Have not started car yet to see if it 51 has returned (cleaning off throttle plate right now). Also going to clean MAF sensor but not sure exactly how to direct the spray inside the tube and not damage it.

Need to get the vehicle smogged for licensing. I would appreciate all input and guidance. Thanks in advance.

[goody90q45]

Send me an enail with contact info and we'll get together and figure out what's wrong. I live off Hazel Ave. in Orangevale.

msg7941atcomcastdotnet

Welcome to NICO

[darlenestar]

Hello,

Thank you for the quick reply. I have sent an email with contact information.

[goody90q45]

Didn't get the email....

I think you have an injector problem, possibly one or more gone dead (ohming high), or, plugged from the new engine not being started for a long period before you had it installed. Just for kicks try a bottle of Redline S1 fuel injector cleaner in a half tank of fuel. Riebes has it.

[darlenestar]

There was an error in the email address and have resent the email. I will get the bottle of Redline S1 to start. I know very little about fuel injectors and how to ohm them.

[darlenestar]

Got the two screws and cap off #1 fuel injector. While trying to remove/lift out the fuel injector from the harness, the angled electrical connector snapped off leaving it a broken "rounded" dome. What options are available to remove the fuel injector?

[darlenestar]

goody90q45 has written a helpful thread on easy fuel injector removal.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/post3513569.html?hilit=remove fuel injector#p3513569/

Gave #1 fuel injector a spray with PB Blaster. Unfortunately, my fi electrical connector broke off and can't be used to twist/swivel to loosen and lift the fuel injector out. More of the plastic keeps breaking off. Nothing to grab onto. I got two nails, but not sure exactly where to insert and lift. Are the holes under the rest of the plastic? More plastic is crumbling off, should i just remove it all? Any other ways to coax it out besides taking the fi harness out of the vehicle?

***Very important*** While reading these informative threads, it reminds you to pull out the 15 amp fuel pump fuse, start the engine several times to empty the fuel line and remove the gas cap before removing a fuel injector. If not, you will get a lot of gasoline an lock up your cylinders.

[goody90q45]

Maybe try drilling a hole in the top of the injector while wetting the drill bit tip with a mist of water from a spray bottle, then screwing in a large sheet metal screw, then pulling upward with a vise grips applying steady pressure. Were you able to give the injector a couple of twists to loosen it up before the connector broke off?

[darlenestar]

No extra PB or quick twists before the breakage. I found the pictorial detailed thread afterwards. Will give the drill suggestion a try and let you know. Thanks.

[darlenestar]

Put another good squirt of PB Blaster on the fuel injector early this afternoon. Got the drill and water spray bottle ready to start driling the hole for the sheet metal screw. Before drilling, we decided to remove the rest of the plastic cap. Took the vise grips and squeezed the tiny tip really hard and twisted. It moved! Kept at it and the fi finally came out of the harness.

Used brake cleaner, qtip and towel to clean the cup. Lubed up the cup, fuel injector body two ring areas and two new o-rings with vaseline petroleum jelly. Inserted the fuel injector into the cup and pressed as hard as possible--practically standing on the engine. Put the metal and rubber washers in the cap (metal one was missing when the cap was taken off) and tightened the two screws. Attached the electrical connector plug. The original #1 fuel injector was dead with 0 ohms reading.

Previously cleaned the ECT connector plug and replaced the ECT sensor for code 13 . The code went away but the gauge needle jumped a bit after I touched the electrical connector plug. Tried to clean and tighten up the two pins again. So far, needle jump and code 13 are gone.

Reinserted the passeger compartment 15 amp fuel pump fuse and gas cap. Turned the ignition to start. Took a deep breath and cranked the engine. She fired right up without hesitation. Car is running at about 1100 rpm (same as prior) in Park and goes between 1400, around 700 at idle. The miss seems to be gone and the check engine light is off!!

Checked the ECU for codes Got code 51, solid red lght, code 55 clear and solid red. Started car and then rechecked for codes. Only have code 55 No Failure Recorded/Detected clear. Check engine light is still off!!

She needs a smog check asap. Any red flags I need to be concerned about at this point before the smog?

[goody90q45]

Good news on the injector swap and the CEL going away. Now you need to look at whether the oxygen sensors are working properly and get the throttle position sensor voltage and IAC % balanced in order to get the idle down to where it should be. CA has the Q handcuffed on the emissions and the passing numbers are low. You may not pass smog unless the engine is running well.

[darlenestar]

That sounds good to check out all of those item to ensure a good smog test. Is the diagnostic computer program available?

I did notice after re-cleaning/tightening the ect electrical connector pins that the engine fan is at a high speed. Almost blows me away when I am standing on the driver side! It has been hot lately, so not sure if it is a coincidence, normal or happening because ecu is reading the a/c settings, whether is it turned on or not.

[darlenestar]

To sum up this post. Both codes are gone and the CEL has remained off. Took the car for smog today and she passed!!!

I am so gratefuly to goody90q45 for answering my post. His willingness to share his time, knowledge and parts is unsurmountable. Through his teachings, along with reading this forum and the Q45.org, it has been a great learning experience and I feel much more comfortable about the car.

Darlene

[goody90q45]

That's great news about passing the smog test. Your Q was running strong after replacing the dead injector and cleaning up the MAF and connector. Now it's on to fixing a couple of the other issues to make it an enjoyable ride. Congrats!!!