Cheap or Expensive tires?

[240SXer]

I've just smoothed out my recent set of Kumo 712s (225/50R16). Before that I had some BFgoodrich Tires. All of them are fairly expensive. I can't seem to have a set of (rear) tires last any more than 5,000miles or so without being ruined. I'm just wondering if it's even wroth buying good tire. Obviously I can't control my driving. Do you think getting some really cheap tires would be cost effective? All I’ve bought was expensive tires so I don't know how well I’d hook with cheapoos or if it'll last longer. I'm just wondering what's the most effective way to do this. I drive a lot and race a WHOLE lot. Dropping $200 every 5-8k isn’t going to work. Or is there another performance tire that will last longer?

[SmithSR]

What do you want the tire to do? Max grip, or maximum tread life?

Max grip won't wear as long, Max wear won't grip as well...

and something in between is what you're using now

[candela]

also something to note... a max treadwear tire usually DO NOT have the heat capabilities that a max grip tire will. Thus they cannot stand the constant spinning/heat and they don't really wear all that much better than something with less of a treawear rating...

If you are into auto-x or track events at all then thats kinda the price you pay. Getting crappy tires is probably the worst thing you can do for handling.

[240SXer]

I only drag race, but I race a lot on the street and such. I just hate how fast my tires go. I don't really care about handling. My car can hook pretty good even with my tires balled. But I just want something that's gonna last longer.

Ok, if I don't get somthing that lasts long, what can I get that will grip the best with the longest life also?

[SmithSR]

You can't have both, and you already use a tire that offers a decent compromise. The Kumho is a good compromise.

Go fast, grip fast, wear out fast. That's the price one pays.

[C-Kwik]

Make sure your suspension is aligned properly. I drive the piss out of my car and can still get over 10K miles on even some rather sticky tires.

[240SXer]

I've got subfame spacers to setup my rear camber as even as possible (for drag), The wear is pretty even. It's slightly more on the inside but nothing crazy.

[spitz7985]

Look at Falken Azenis Sports. You can get them for ~$60/ea and still have very good traction and tread wear. You will HATE a cheap tire.

[VitaminT]

I think you may find that the Azenis Sports have too stiff of a sidewall for drag. I am looking at the Kumho Ecsta MXs.

[240SXer]

Haven't seen the MXs. They any good?

[VitaminT]

They are Kumho's only Max Performance Summer tire.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/...ta+MX

[szh]

My car can hook pretty good even with my tires balled.

That is normal! That is why racing "slicks" are what they are. Treads are for wet and damp conditions - bald tires will slide in wet weather since there is no pumping action from the treads to remove water.

Of course, on normal street tires, when they are almost bald, there is not much rubber left (unlike racing tires), so it is safer to change them. Particularly if you ever end up in the rain (or even a slick asphalt from somebody's lawn watering!)

Z

[240SXer]

It just depends on how long the compound stays soft. But ya, the 712 are soft till you get to the belt. Which is what i'm on right now

[240SXer]

I think i'm gonna go with those MXs next. I doubt they'll wear much faster than my 712s and I bet the'll hook a lot better.

[rico05]

Performance costs. Not to be a a$$, but if you can't pay to play, mabye you had better rethink your philosophy. Tires are a wear item. It is like a drifter getting mad that he has to have his shocks rebuilt every few thousand miles or a nitro racer whining that he has to rebuild his motor every 3 runs. It is part of the game man. Cheap tires will give you cheap performance. And running bald tires are just plain stupid. Just because your car hooks up with bald tires does not mean that is a good idea. Race slicks are special compounds that are safe to run w/o tread, not just tires without tread.

[240SXer]

Blah... I'm not going to start crying about how dangerous bald tires are. I know performance costs, have you seen my car? Damn. You act like I’m some stupid kid. When you race all the time and buy tires that cost 130 a piece and have to replace them all the time it becomes an issue. Clearly by my saying I was getting the MXs (wear even faster / 220 vs. 280) I entertained the idea of getting cheap tires and apparently decided not to. It was an idea. Cheap tires will give cheap performance but my car already hooks decently, I’ve never had Cheap tires with the SR so I wouldn’t know how much they'll spin. If my car hooks well with balled tires and the balance is still good and all I don't care. Unless it's on the belt it's hardly any more likely to blow.

[whiterps13]

do you rotate your tires from front to back ever? if not, you should. youll be surprised as to how much this helps. and if youre running a staggered setup, you should have thought about this before...

[RMiller]

My roommate just got some Continental Extreme Contact(all season), he paid like $80/tire for 16" Jetta wheels. I think the treadwear is 400, traction A temp A. Check them out on Tirerack. I have Dunlop SP9000's on my car, and they're pretty good. They come as OE on IS300s. My dad's tires on his IS have gone 40,000 miles and still have 30%. I know what you're going through, but I would still stick with higher end tires. My car came with Goodyear Eagle F1's, which I burned through in 10,000 miles(best tires I have EVER ridden on), then I figured I'd get some cheaper tires, so I got Ecsta 712's. This was a BAD idea; one of the tires blew up on the freeway after fewer than 5,000 miles and there was no warranty. Then for some terrible reason I got POS Nankang H-rated tires because I used to think that H meant they would last longer(d'oh). These sucked, but not as bad as the Kumhos(worst tires ever, but I hear the MXs are good). The Kumhos lasted about 12,000 miles(except the blown one), and the Nankangs lasted about 12,000 miles. After I watched my dad buy a new IS300 and drive it for 40,000 miles without changing the tires, I decided to get the ones he had on his car, the SP9000s(actually I think his came with 7000's but whatever). So far, they grip better, and are quieter, especially than the Kumhos which I swear howled(I can't express enough how much these tires sucked). My driving style is pretty spirited, but not like the JDM drifters. So I would highly recommend getting higher end tires, I think they'll perform better as well as last longer.

-Ryan

[Dori Dori]

240SXer, this is totally off topic from the thread, but hopefully you can help me out. I, like you have a hicas s13. What I wanted to know was, when you did your swap, did you use a hicas p/s pump? If not, did you have to change anything (p/s fluid reservoir, lines, ect) to make the regular p/s pump work? Thanks.

[vq35de]

130/tire, man I wish I could spend that for a good tire. 170 and up for good tires for me. 200 plus if you want michelins, which typically can get you 20k plus out of their performance tires. they don't grip as well as the MX's and azenis but they will give you 90% of the grip at 200% of the tread life. are the pilot sports available in your sizes?

that has been my experience, pay the 200 plus cost for michelins get 20-25k miles out of a set and you are better off than paying 130-150/tire for 10 k miles or even 15k miles

[240SXer]

My S13 does not have an SR. It's KA still. My s14 is the SR powered car.

I was quoted 270 out the door for 225/50R16 Kumo MXs. Good price? That includes tax and all.