CHATROOM: Front wheel hub & bearing replacement

[dillon]

So a good friend of mine has a Rogue with a noisy wheel bearing, me being the mechanic of the group he asks me to do it. My only hanging up point is what the fastener torque is for mounting the hub to the knuckle. I did some looking around and wasn't able to find it, but I found this site so I'm hoping someone has access to the repair manual for these. Thanks.

[Rogue One]

III. Guide to our Technical Information (Articles, FSMs, Automotive Advice)
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/iii-gu ... dvice.html
Index of /FSM/Rogue
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/2011/BR.pdf

[dillon]

HOLY POOP! Thanks a ton, all I ever wanted and more!

[ImStricken06]

you owe me a beer:

[reecy857]

ImStricken... is the 125 the torque spec for the wheel hub nut? Thanks for your help

[ImStricken06]

ImStricken... is the 125 the torque spec for the wheel hub nut? Thanks for your help

no the hub's 4 bolts are torques to 65FT LB
the 125 stand for Newton Meters for the axle bolt.

[reecy857]

Thank you so much!!

[k.fredrickson]

My husband is having a mechanic from work replace the bearing hub on the right front wheel of our 2008 Rogue because it is going out. We are buying the part, 40202-JG01A and having him do the work. What I am wondering is if anyone has done this themselves and if so, would you suggest buying the genuine Nissan part or another brand? I seem to only be able to find the genuine parts on eBay and I tend to be a bit leery about purchasing from there. On parts websites I have seen other brands of the same part, usually for about half the cost of the genuine ones going on eBay. Any tips on buying parts or doing this repair would be helpful. The dealership quoted us $480+tax for the repair and after spending over $500 on a stuck engine valve about 6 months ago, we're ready to get away from doing repairs at the dealership.

I've already downloaded the service manual pages for this repair so we do have that. Details: 2008 Rogue SL, 68K miles

[ImStricken06]

My husband is having a mechanic from work replace the bearing hub on the right front wheel of our 2008 Rogue because it is going out. We are buying the part, 40202-JG01A and having him do the work. What I am wondering is if anyone has done this themselves and if so, would you suggest buying the genuine Nissan part or another brand? I seem to only be able to find the genuine parts on eBay and I tend to be a bit leery about purchasing from there. On parts websites I have seen other brands of the same part, usually for about half the cost of the genuine ones going on eBay. Any tips on buying parts or doing this repair would be helpful. The dealership quoted us $480+tax for the repair and after spending over $500 on a stuck engine valve about 6 months ago, we're ready to get away from doing repairs at the dealership.

I've already downloaded the service manual pages for this repair so we do have that. Details: 2008 Rogue SL, 68K miles

oem only (for me) on this part.

and %500 on a stuck engine valve? sounds fishy. pretty cheap for an engine valve. lol thats $1000+ repair probably not an engine valve fbut your pcv valve

[Leo2005]

Checkout everythingnissan.com (nico's sponsor). Their prices way lower than others. Here's the links for the bearings:
http://www.everythingnissan.com/2008-Ni ... 744169.htm
http://www.everythingnissan.com/2008-Ni ... 744176.htm
Give them a call and tell them that you are nicoclub member and sometimes (depends on the part) they giving 10% off over the phone. This part is pretty easy to replace if you have the right equipment. If you can lift a car in the shop it will make the job even easier. I did it on my '08 Rogue awhile ago right on my driveway.

[spacekudet]

Hi everyone, I'm replacing a front passenger side wheel hub on my 2008 Nissan Rogue AWD. I got everything off including the brake rotor. I'm having trouble removing the sensor and the hub.

With the sensor I got the nut off, sprayed it with a lot of penetrating WD-40 to remove rust and am afraid if I pry the sensor off it might snap, how easily is it suppose to slide out?

With the hub I'm having trouble fitting a socket onto the 4 bolts. I turned the steering wheel as far as it goes to the right, am using a 3/8, 17mm socket with an extension but can't get the socket to get properly seated on any of the bolts because the 'Joint Sub-Assembly' is in the way. After researching info on the topic this shouldn't be that difficult so most likely than not I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions from past experiences? Photos are always a great help, thank.

[spacekudet]

Hi everyone, I'm replacing a front passenger side wheel hub on my 2008 Nissan Rogue AWD. I got everything off including the brake rotor. I'm having trouble removing the sensor and the hub.

With the sensor I got the nut off, sprayed it with a lot of penetrating WD-40 to remove rust and am afraid if I pry the sensor off it might snap, how easily is it suppose to slide out?

With the hub I'm having trouble fitting a socket onto the 4 bolts. I turned the steering wheel as far as it goes to the right, am using a 3/8, 17mm socket with an extension but can't get the socket to get properly seated on any of the bolts because the 'Joint Sub-Assembly' is in the way. After researching info on the topic this shouldn't be that difficult so most likely than not I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions from past experiences? Photos are always a great help, thank.

[ImStricken06]

abs sensors are known for getting stuck. try this: soak the area in wd40, and get a heat gun, and saturate the area with heat (not the actual plastic sensor). heat draws in oil. that should help get the dw40 into the actual sensor receptacle. (this is a trick used by mechanics to get rusted and stuck exhaust/header bolts lose. sometimes they heat the area very hot and use candle wax as well)
sometimes breaking them is the ONLY option. good luck. report back.

regarding the bolts= make sure you are using sockets that are not too wide, but strong enough. those bolts can be a total 8itch to get (just like the two big caliber bracket bolts). try using making a 45degree socket extension u-joint socket.

PS: are you using an impact wrench? if not watch some of my videos : i use an electric Milwaukee M18 impat that has 167 ft-lbs of TQ. its been a real life saver!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7gHrusxbNU[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGpuFwEKpUM[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMMyS6igo1Y[/youtube]

my next purchase will upgrade my current 2 Milwaukee units( which i love ) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M1 ... ifications

[spacekudet]

Thanks for the advices, I found a good looking picture of the sensor on ebay, so it looks like it suppose to slide right out with out hitches. It probably needs more wd-40. I was debating whether to do this right now or leave it till spring. Since winter is coming & ABS,AWD, probably speedometer and tire pressure light all depend on this sensor and who knows what else, hence I don't want to brake the sensor for winter. I'll probably tackle the wheel hub in spring.

[spacekudet]

Also I don't have an impact wrench, am not really sure what they really do. I use a 2 meter iron pipe for some ungodly leverage. How would an impact wrench help, I can get access to one. FYI, cheapest price for the sensor from ebay with shipping, taxes and duties is $85, from the local dealer its probably quadruple that. If I brake, I buy.

[ImStricken06]

while you may apply a lot of torque upon a stuck nut - its simply bending the head from the shaft. an impact wrench creates taps, that loosen both the head and shaft. it taps and helps loosen the rust and debris around, to further facilitate the removal. its great.

[spacekudet]

crap, posted all this in the wrong thread. It's what happens when you ask to many stupid questions and leave too many crumbs on the trail. reposting on
anyone-done-a-wheel-bearing-replacement-t591560.html

[spacekudet]

Thanks for the advices, I found a good looking picture of the sensor on ebay, so it looks like it suppose to slide right out with out hitches. It probably needs more wd-40. I was debating whether to do this right now or leave it till spring. Since winter is coming & ABS,AWD, probably speedometer and tire pressure light all depend on this sensor and who knows what else, hence I don't want to brake the sensor for winter. I'll probably tackle the wheel hub in spring.

[spacekudet]

Also I don't have an impact wrench, am not really sure what they really do. I use a 2 meter iron pipe for some ungodly leverage. How would an impact wrench help, I can get access to one. FYI, cheapest price for the sensor from ebay with shipping, taxes and duties is $85, from the local dealer its probably quadruple that. If I brake, I buy.

[ImStricken06]

ok dude, you're killin me. you're blowin up all of our phones. lol
you dont need to create multiple posts on the same thread. 1 post, can easily include everything you need.


this is my earlier reply:
while you may apply a lot of torque upon a stuck nut - its simply bending the head from the shaft. an impact wrench creates taps, that loosen both the head and shaft. it taps and helps loosen the rust and debris around, to further facilitate the removal. its great.

i merged the 2 threads.

[spacekudet]

while you may apply a lot of torque upon a stuck nut - its simply bending the head from the shaft. an impact wrench creates taps, that loosen both the head and shaft. it taps and helps loosen the rust and debris around, to further facilitate the removal. its great.

got it. thanks. Dammit Jim, I'm a doctor not a wheel hub mechanic!

[frankenx]

@ spacekudet I'm having the same issue with both sensor and wheel hub nuts(4) Extraction. Are you able to get both of them out ?? How did you do it ? In my case the wheel hub is front driver side.

[frankenx]

Hi everyone, I'm replacing a front passenger side wheel hub on my 2008 Nissan Rogue AWD. I got everything off including the brake rotor. I'm having trouble removing the sensor and the hub.

With the sensor I got the nut off, sprayed it with a lot of penetrating WD-40 to remove rust and am afraid if I pry the sensor off it might snap, how easily is it suppose to slide out?

With the hub I'm having trouble fitting a socket onto the 4 bolts. I turned the steering wheel as far as it goes to the right, am using a 3/8, 17mm socket with an extension but can't get the socket to get properly seated on any of the bolts because the 'Joint Sub-Assembly' is in the way. After researching info on the topic this shouldn't be that difficult so most likely than not I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions from past experiences? Photos are always a great help, thank.

@ spacekudet I'm having the same issue with both sensor and wheel hub nuts(4) Extraction. Are you able to get both of them out ?? How did you do it ? In my case the wheel hub is front driver side.

[darylzero]

This may help.

[A_Miles2105]

For what it's worth: WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil! First keep in mind that real penetrating oil is almost NEVER given the time to "work" that it requires. In most cases you know that a job is imminent, so start right away soaking/spraying the rusted parts with penetrating oil, the more times & longer the duration the better. The application of a heat gun along with cooling (being mindful of fire risks with solvents!) is a great old school tactic to suck the oil into where it's needed.
Really good, relatively cheap penetrating oil can be made up using 50/50 ATF and acetone. Don't mix too far ahead as the acetone really evaporates fast. Acetone is easily obtained at a hardware store (if you can find
one) Walmart home depot etc.

And for the future, anti-sieze is a good preventative for the next time? that the job is needed unless otherwise contra indicated. needing thread locker etc.

[ImStricken06]

add me to this list as well. just replaced it with a new one. (while completing my axle, lower control arm & hub-bearing, job) video coming up in a few hours

replaced with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2J ... 3FBPQ4S5UY

[ImStricken06]

i installed it while installing the new lower control arm & cv axle. so far so good. i cant certainly feel a little tighter steering with all the new parts.
video to come soon!

[goingrogue]

HI all,
I have a SL AWD with a bad bearing/ hub assembly at 41,100 miles. Is this part covered under the 60,000 Powertrain warranty? I read the warranty book and it states bearings are covered, but not specifically wheel bearings. thank you.

[ImStricken06]

bearing, in the engine are. wheel hub bearings are NOT. these are 'wear' items like brakes, tires, rubber parts, etc.

[blessedetherstar]

So...To awaken a dead thread...Im trying to remove my hub assembly on the drivers side..and the 4 bolts behind it are IMPOSSIBLE to get to....Anyone have any idea how to remove the 4 bolts? It's 17mm and ive tried everything but nothing will fit back there.