Charge Pipes Diameter..
Charge Pipes Diameter..
So im bored and I goto the hardware store to buy more crap for the KA24ET.... I went straight to the plumming section... and I was wondering would it matter what size of charge pipe I get? The Compressor housing "T3" has a outlet of of 1 1/2 Diameter and my HKS BOV pipe has a diameter of 2in as well as for my HKS SMIC. BUT knowing im going to do a hacked maf setup with 3 Inch piping.. Would the different sizes to the pipes matter?? like buy a reducer for the compressor outlet 1 1/2~~>2in and then 2 in piping to my smic.. buy another reducer for the smic from 2in~~> 2.5in and run 2.5 pipe until i get up to the battery which I will buy another reducer from 2.5~~> 3in piping which is when the hacked maf will be located then buy a reducer to connect the 3in piping ~~>2.75 Throttle Body.... is this a good plan?? BTW I can get Exhaust 2.5 Piping from checkers and the 2in piping mandrel bent from the hardware store...
it sounds like you are doing the exact same setup as me. i just got my smic mounted tonight. i got mandrel bent pipes from a diesil truck place. i ran 2.5'' from the turbo to the IC. and i ran 3'' from IC to the TB, because i used part of my hs intake that was already 3''. it really doesnt matter that much what size piping you use, especially at low boost. as far as the hacked mafs, if you are doing the pull through method, then you wouldnt have to worry about the IC piping size. btw, the 2'' stuff at the hardaware store is kind of small and the bend is not very tight. i was going to use that stuff as well but decided to use all 2.5'' and 3''. if your smic is like mine the connectors on it are almost 2.5 so 2.5 piping is perfect, at least for the hotpipe. to shorten piping and for less work i mounted my smic on the drivers side where the lower original air box used to be, in front of the fender. there is a lot of room in there and there is a big opening in front to keep it cool. this way you dont have to relocate your battery and your piping is much simpler and shorter, creating less lag. it was very simple for me, i used 2 90's and a 45. i had to cut out a little of the metal to get down there to run the pipes to.ps, what size ID pipe are you using for you hacked mafs? im assuming your using the 370 injectors.
as a matter of face im using 370s off a ca18det! as for the 2in piping..i measured the piping that my HKS SQV not SSQV and its was 2in so im thinking if i run 2in pipe "from home depot because here in north dakota its hard to find good places" to the intercooler"hotpipe" and and run a long 2.5in "exhaust pipe wihch had some coating inside the pipe" to the other side of the car "looks funny but looks dont matter since im goin to put chicken wire in front" use a 90 bend "still 2.5" up to the engine bay then for temporary until i find 3 in piping use "THICK 3in CPCV which is stronger than PVC" to mount the Hacked MAF and connect it to the TB with a reducer of 3in to 2.5in.
Just thinking of the turbo since it pushes compressed air through...the pipes wouldnt matter unless u got a BIG turbo...Since mines is only a T3 it had like a diameter of 1.5 on the compressor side,so as long as its bigger than the compressor outlet and no restrictions then it would be cool no?? since the pipe would be filling with compressed air until the BOV gets rid of it...
The reason why I ask if this is ok is if its necessary to run 3 in piping all the way because we're using the hacked maf method... :ylsuper
Just thinking of the turbo since it pushes compressed air through...the pipes wouldnt matter unless u got a BIG turbo...Since mines is only a T3 it had like a diameter of 1.5 on the compressor side,so as long as its bigger than the compressor outlet and no restrictions then it would be cool no?? since the pipe would be filling with compressed air until the BOV gets rid of it...
The reason why I ask if this is ok is if its necessary to run 3 in piping all the way because we're using the hacked maf method... :ylsuper
in your case, no i dont think the pipe size matters if you are doing the blow through method. the air will be compressed in the pipes. the mafs will still be reading the amount of air thats going into the engine. im putting the mafs before the turbo right after the filter. just out of curiosity, why are you putting it after the turbo? is it just so you can vent your bov to the atmosphere? also, what size ID pipe are you using for the hacked mafs?
im doing the blow through setup because with the blow by setup ive read that there could be stalling problems . My HKS SQV does NOT have the re-circ valve so I have no choice but to run open atmosphere...
what about running a side mount AND a front mount IC together?? is there boost lag when this happens??
as for ftrs13 theres a few posts regarding this subject i think theres one below this page somewhere..
what about running a side mount AND a front mount IC together?? is there boost lag when this happens??
as for ftrs13 theres a few posts regarding this subject i think theres one below this page somewhere..
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03frontyka24
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:02 pm
Trppen37 wrote:ahhhh radiator hose...a cheaper yet effective way!
Just leave yourself room to grow and don't go all radiator hoses
I used them just as connectors where I needed freedom of movement or where mandrel bent wouldn't be tight enough.
1. Compressor outlet2. Intercooler in3. Intercooler out4. TB
Haven't had temp issues so far, nor have any of the connectors leaked (I think)
Is your first name Alexander? That's wierd...NateDogg wrote:From my new book "Forced Induction Performance Tuning" by A.Graham Bell. Page 155 Table 10.1 Inlet duct diameter requirements:
Pipe Diam (OD) Horsepower2in 2552.25 3452.5 4502.75 5653 6903.5 970
Lots of other good stuff in there and they tune a redtop SR with dyno graphs!