Changing plugs and coils while doing VCG

[brickbox]

So the local shop confirmed that my VCG leaking. The driver's side just started, but the passenger side is weeping pretty badly. The PO took decent care of routine maintenance but I don't find anything in the stack of paperwork related to plugs or coils being changed.

When I have the shop change the VCG, I am going to have the spark plugs changed. Does it make sense to change the coils as well or leave them as is? I dont have any DTC codes (knock on wood).

Also, the ATF fluid was never changed and is 153k miles fresh now, from all way back in 2002.
Is a flush acceptable or does it have to be a drop the pan, change filter and get all new fluid due to the age of the fluid?

[PathyPop]

Change the plugs for sure but I wouldn't change the coils. Plugs are cheap, coils are not. Also, they are not an item that you need to replace all when one goes bad (like headlights or shocks). Coils either work or they throw codes on their way to going bad. Plus they are relatively easy to replace.

BUT - I would tell the mechanic to replace the rear thermostat and check the power valve screws. These items are cheap and accessible during the job.

[brickbox]

Thanks Pathypop! Should I have them replace the water control valve even though the car is running normal operating temps right now? Will this also be a time to change out coolant or can they do this without having to drain the cooling system?
Also, any recommendations between choosing platinum or iridium plugs?

[AlanAZ]

Change the PCV valve, with OEM, it is inexpensive, and impossible to get to without the intake off. Also have the shop keep the coils in the order removed, and then shift one position to the rear (ie. 1>3 3>5 5>1, same for other side), this will spread the heat wear over the coils.

I suggest using only the factory specified spark plug.

The AT filter is a type that only catches large particles, you're better off leaving it, and putting in a Magnefine filter, 5/16, this has a true particulate filter. Replace in 20K mls, then every 30-40K after.

[yeldogt]

I believe Nissan says 100k ... Typically I don't see any difference when I have them changed on any car ... but, I actually did on my Pathfinder. Had them done last month .. car is about at 100k. Make sure you get the exact plug. I also did a simple drain and refill of the proper Nissan Coolant and distilled water.

I would just do a simple ATF fluid change -- drain and fill. Use the correct Dmatic fluid ... it's cheap. I have had 3 2002 LE's .. the LE has the auto transfer case that also uses the same Dmatic fluid. I had all the fluids changed when I bought the car back in 2010 w/60k on it. It easy and cheaper to have it all done at once. Coolant was due again. You can get the correct fluid on Amazon for $20 and I think I bought a case of trans on ebay for $60 from some guy trying to get rid of it. The differentials can use the M1 fluid for both (mine has the rear LSD).

[brickbox]

I did get the front and rear differential fluids changed with 80W90 with the LSD additives as part of the driveline vibrations the car had right after I got it. Haven't touched the tcase fluids.
Good to know about the drain and refill. I will wait for Spring to do it then.

One more thing - these cars have the spark plug coil boots. Do these need to be changed while the plugs are being replaced? Owner's manual only calls out platinum tipped plugs every 105k miles.

[brickbox]

Change the PCV valve, with OEM, it is inexpensive, and impossible to get to without the intake off. Also have the shop keep the coils in the order removed, and then shift one position to the rear (ie. 1>3 3>5 5>1, same for other side), this will spread the heat wear over the coils.

I suggest using only the factory specified spark plug.

The AT filter is a type that only catches large particles, you're better off leaving it, and putting in a Magnefine filter, 5/16, this has a true particulate filter. Replace in 20K mls, then every 30-40K after.

Good to note on the order of the coils.
I might have to skip the PCV valve for now though....kinda running over budget already

[AlanAZ]

I might have to skip the PCV valve for now though

A PCV valve working less than optimally could contribute to a VCG leak. It's $17 on InfintiPartsDeal.

[brickbox]

Thanks AlanAz. I ordered the PCV as well as the secondary thermostat/water control valve. Should have them next week.
I dont need to change the spark plug boots do I? Unless of course, they fall apart during the spark plug replacement.

Will the coolant system need to be drained by the shop while replacing the water control valve? If so, might as well have them replace the upper and lower hoses which are still factory.

[AlanAZ]

I dont need to change the spark plug boots do I? Unless of course, they fall apart during the spark plug replacement.

I did not replace mine, and I don't recall how separate they are from the coils themselves. I did put some dielectric grease around the bottom of the boot. It helps prevent the boot from sticking to the plug, and provides more atmospheric isolation, so the plug electrical contact is less affected by damp/wet weather.

[brickbox]

Ok perfect. I will sending in the car in the next day or two to get these fixed.
I am going to hold off on the radiator hose replacement for now. It doesnt look like I have to drain the entire cooling system to replace the water control valve. And the little gauge I have shows that my coolant is still reading acceptable level of freeze protection.

[yeldogt]

Properly done ... and properly is important. Coolant refresh will give you up to five years. It''s not the freeze protection that's the concern anymore .. it's the anticorrosion properties. Manufacturers match the coolant type to the metals and seals in the system -- that's why it's so important to use the correct type. You can't see the damage being done. If you buy a new car or buy and old one that you know has been properly maintained with the correct OE fluid .. just spend the extra $10 bucks and get the OE fluid. You know it will be compatible and will provide the correct protection.

It's very hard to fully flush a system once contaminated

[brickbox]

It's very hard to fully flush a system once contaminated

This is very true. I will get to doing a drain and fill on the coolant once spring comes by.

[brickbox]

So I plan on doing a simple drain and fill of the coolant this weekend. I called the local Infiniti dealership as well as two of the Nissan dealerships.
They all said that they don't carry the green coolant and that they just use the "regular green stuff" from O'reilly's (Infiniti dealer) and Autozone (Nissan dealers).

So question, I got some Peak Extended Life green stuff. Can that be used? If not, I can buy some of the Zerex Asian Vehicles stuff at the parts store?
Also, would a gallon be sufficient for the drain and refill? I couldn't find it in the old threads I read through....