Me being the stupid me crossthreaded two studs on the front left, and in my frustration to remove the lugnuts, snapped one bolt and severly cross threaded the other. Stupid me. I got a set of new lugnut studs from Napa, and a few new lugnuts, and now I have the wheel, brake mount and caliper off of the axle, and i'm staring at the auto hub. The diagram in the chilton's makes it look like living hell to get the wheel hub off so I can change the lugnut studs out. How hard is it in reality to do, and how hard was it to undo the torx screws out for those of you that have done this before? If i'm just removing the hub to get out some lugnut studs, do I need to replace anything inside the hub?
I'm going to try to remove the lock washer with a set of needlenose pliers, and if that doesn't work i'll try to look for the Isuzu tool at my local Napa. Where would I look to find it?
Thanks
Changing lugnut studs
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atomicfire
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atomicfire
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 8:58 pm
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Re: Changing lugnut studs (atomicfire)
stupid @*#%#$ rotor isn't coming off of the hub!!!
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AZhitman
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Hold up bro...
May not need to pull the hub.
Rotor should pop right off, sometimes it gets a little rust between it and the hub. There should be a bolt hole in the rotor, try threading a spare bolt into there to "crack" it loose (or, rap it with a hammer gently).
Once rotor is off, you MAY be able to swap the stud w/o pulling hub off.
Place a "sacrificial" lugnut on the bad stud, thread it on about flush with the stud. You're gonna need a 10+ lb sledge here, so if you don't have one, it's gonna suck. If you do, you're gonna want to get a good solid SQUARE whack to drive it out of the hub (might take a few whacks).
Remove the lugnut, pull out the stud, and put the new one in. You'll need to "seat" it (which is WAY easier with a press, but the hub must be off for that).
Place a couple suitable spacers on the stud (I use some big fat metal bushings and a couple washers) and start threading the lugnut on. Lube the threads and the splines beforehand, btw.
You'll want to use a breaker bar to get sufficient torque on it, and keep feeling the backside of the hub so make sure the stud has seated (even with the others).
Make sure also that your lugnot isn't stripping out by removing it a few times and checking the inside... also, you need to add spacers as the stud gets seated into the hub (so you don't bottom out the lugnut if it's a closed-end design).
Easy for me since I've done it 25-30 times. But for your purposes, might be easier left to a shop.
May not need to pull the hub.
Rotor should pop right off, sometimes it gets a little rust between it and the hub. There should be a bolt hole in the rotor, try threading a spare bolt into there to "crack" it loose (or, rap it with a hammer gently).
Once rotor is off, you MAY be able to swap the stud w/o pulling hub off.
Place a "sacrificial" lugnut on the bad stud, thread it on about flush with the stud. You're gonna need a 10+ lb sledge here, so if you don't have one, it's gonna suck. If you do, you're gonna want to get a good solid SQUARE whack to drive it out of the hub (might take a few whacks).
Remove the lugnut, pull out the stud, and put the new one in. You'll need to "seat" it (which is WAY easier with a press, but the hub must be off for that).
Place a couple suitable spacers on the stud (I use some big fat metal bushings and a couple washers) and start threading the lugnut on. Lube the threads and the splines beforehand, btw.
You'll want to use a breaker bar to get sufficient torque on it, and keep feeling the backside of the hub so make sure the stud has seated (even with the others).
Make sure also that your lugnot isn't stripping out by removing it a few times and checking the inside... also, you need to add spacers as the stud gets seated into the hub (so you don't bottom out the lugnut if it's a closed-end design).
Easy for me since I've done it 25-30 times. But for your purposes, might be easier left to a shop.
Why would you use an isuzu hub lock ring tool? If your working on a pathy you do need to pull the hub and rotor assembly from the car as they are bolted from the rear. But you do not need to remove the rotor from the hub as there are cut aways where the studs go through. Just smack the stud out with a BFH as greg mentioned, I usually do it without a lug nut on it but which ever is easier for you. If you dont remove the bearings from the hub or pull the rear bearing seal off ,there is nothing in there you need to replace.