changing engines

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 5:08 pm

ok my 92 240sx with a DE is having serious problems. it doesnt want to stay in time. when i push the clutch in when coming to a stop the car tries to idle right at 500 then dies a second or 2 later. my question is, is this easily fixable? or i have a ka24e engine and the question for that is can i swap the head off of the DE onto the E without any problems? the swap is from a 95 pickup with TBI intake manifold. i need to change the transmission also from this pickup into the 240. is this a viable option and the only thing being kept from the 240sx DE engine is the head and intake and exhaust manifolds? also if you dont understand what im saying please clarify which part. also the 240 has this sound when idling like the timing chain is rubbing like the guides are loose my 95 altima does this also. is that rubbing sound normal or common among the 2.4 nissans?

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:22 pm

Post by **Shift__BODOM** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:38 pm

that idle problem is caused by a vaccum leak. check all your vaccum hoses for tears. its a huge PITA, but it can be done. you may also simplify the whole process by lightly misting some carb cleaner at the intake manifold. if the idle changes, then try misting at just the back, then just at the front. try to get an exact point where you can mist the carb cleaner and change the idle, and theres your vaccum leak. the BPT/EGR, IACV, and brake booster vaccum lines are all very possible candidates for a vaccum leak. use the search button in the upper righthand corner of the screen, its blinking red and blue, and search for vaccum leak. you will definately not be disappointed.

it sounds like theres a chain guide knocking around in there because there actually is! cept its not loose, its most likely broken, as my '93 KADE's was. take off the valve cover, remove the top guide, then bolt the cover back on to the proper torque spec. its that simple you shouldnt need a new gasket, but if yours is hard and brittle, then definately replace it. if its soft, squishy, and rubbery, then it should be fine. look into replacing the gasket anyway since it is a '92, its not a huge PITA, and the whole process for me took about an hour, and thats with taking my time doing it the first time. autozone should be able to special order you a gasket, make sure it includes those little half moon things. there should be 4.

you can mate an SOHC block to a DOHC head, but the small problems you are experiencing dont really justify paying to swap the longblocks when the problem could be fixed for under $10. carb cleaner, 3 bucks, vaccum hose, anywhere from 3-6 bucks, and the chain guide removal is free unless you need a gasket...

hope this helps. anyone else, feel free to chime in

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 11:45 pm

well the main reason we are thinking about changing out the motors is because the engine thats in there needs to be resealed. i aim to just have them changed for a short period of time being as i already have my turbo and all the goodies for it. and am going to build up the engine i take out. my only question on that is are the stock pistons ok for a turbo setup or do i need to drop to a lower compression?

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 11:49 pm

ok first of all this isnt really my car, its my brother in law's. he got an ebay intake and put that on there. i just realized after i sent that last post that he has a hose thats just sittin there that was originally connected to the factory intake. its about a 1 inch hose and it would be on the bottom side of the intake tube close to the radiator. could that hose be the problem? if so can i just block it off being as his ebay intake doesnt have a bung to put that hose onto?

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 2:58 am

That one inch hose is likely your idle air control feed. If its disconnected the car wont run right or at all at idle. If you got a pic of that hose for confirmation that would help.

Post by **Shift__BODOM** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 2:32 pm

NO! that hose is just going to a resonator. it actually bolts up close to the radiator. i actually thought it was causing my ****ty idle, and up until i replaced my radiator, i had a big fat breather filter on a tube, looks like a radiator hose, that led down to a small plastic box. adjust your idle at the IACV screw, thats what i did.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 2:49 pm

If your are talking about the resonator hose as shift is describing it is 2 to 2 1/2 inch in diameter not 1 inch. No that hose will not affect your cars running if its not connected and there is no hole on your intake for it.

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:19 am

well i gotta get this car straightened out quick cuz he is wanting to sell it now so he can get a turboed integra LS. whoopty doo another ricer. but are the stock DE pistons and cams ok for a turbo setup running no more than 10 psi? also what exactly has to be done to mate the DE head onto the E block? any modifications? swap the timing chain because of the second cam? anything yall can think of that will make this swap a lot easier by having the information on hand would be greatly appreciated

Post by **adrenalinepunk** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:22 am

we are kindof looking into swapping the blocks because the engine has a very unbalanced sound to it and a tick. im thinking either a rod is loose or bent but the engine needs rebuilt anyway so why not rebuild it and still be able to drive the car being as its his only form of transportation

Post by **Shift__BODOM** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 9:49 pm

the stock cams and pistons should be fine up until about 7 psi, but if you want to run it as a daily driver, you shouldnt go above 6 PSI without proper tuning and all forged internals. a buddy of mine ran 5psi on his beater block and threw a rod right through the oil pan. of course, this block was thoroughly beat to hell...hence beater block. we replaced the rebuilt/forged block after the shenanigans. i tell ya what, people with money got it made in the shade drinking turbo-aide...wait...

ok, seriously, with the DE head and E block, it's possible, and you can find HUGE topics about how to do it and what snags you may encounter along the way if you SEARCH! [upper right-hand corner of your screen. it says "search" and is flashing red and blue.]

if a rod is loose, the car wouldn't drive, and if it was bent, i doubt it would even crank. my guess is that the vaccum leak is causing the unbalanced sound and the tick is either the fuel injectors (nissan injectors are quite loud) or that upper timing chain guide thats most likely broken. this "unbalanced" sound could also be caused by another underlying problem. make sure you get all the problems like vaccum leaks sorted out before you throw a turbo boosting 10psi at it. thats a recipie for a blown engine right there, and you dont want that...do you?

and tell him about the wonders of the rear axle...and turbo'd 2.4L, versus turbo'd 1.8L. a KA-T will rip on an LS any day. AAAH! maybe its just a hatred i have for FWD...or maybe the alcohol is fogging up my mind...either way, good luck.

changing engines

changing engines

Re: (adrenalinepunk)

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