Changing brake fluid

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AZhitman
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Going to be switching from the stock stuff to the Valvoline Synpower. What's the best way to do this? If I have the brake bleeder (hand pump), can I do the whole system from one wheel? Will that get the majority of the old fluid? Anything else to "watch out" for?

As always, thanks guys.


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Mayhem_J30
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i'm switching to valvoline synpower this weekend too. i don't think it's possible to do it from one brake line. You have to consider all the brake lines going back to the rear. In fact, the manual calls for starting with the rear during bleeding. So I'm putting it up on on stands and pulling off all the wheels. I purchased extra fluid so I can flush it out real good, because i must admit, i have not been true to my brake system..:( I find it easier with a second person pumping the pedal for you.

911/Q45
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Vacuum out the two bleeders at the ABS unit until you get clear fluid, then do each individual bleeder at the wheels until it's clear. Should use about 1 quart. The Griot's Garage vacuum unit makes it super easy and a one man job. Having your buddy pump the pedal while you say "In, Out, Is it hard yet?" may satisfy your latent gay tendencies, but it can be hard on your master cylinder. The piston in the master cylinder travels past the usual limits and that can ruin the seal.

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greg_atlanta
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When T-3 changed my brake fluid, they used an air-powered vacuum device, and it was very quick (and they charged me $25 or so). Seeing how quickly and cheaply it can be done with the right toys, I have no interest in trying to do it myself.

It's a BIG job at home, but a simple job at a shop with a lift. Paying someone else $25-50 isn't such a bad idea.

The system won't be really clean until the 2nd flush, so do it again in 6 months if you want to do it right.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
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Roger that - Thanks Greg. I'll call around and see what the locals are getting....

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DAEDALUS
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If it's been a while and you've got unreasonably cruddy brake fluid, then I think the manual, old-fashioned way is best. Building up pressure in the lines and then releasing the bleeder is probably the best way to loosen up any crud clinging to the walls of the lines and caliper housing. Any method is fine for exchanging fluid.911/Q45, tell me more about the Griot's garage vacuum--is it the same one you used to remove tranny fluid from the dipstick hole? I assume you just hook it up to the bleeder, open the valve, and then just keep the reservoir from going empty?

911/Q45
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It's the same design as the oil sucker, with a smaller reservoir and a different line and fitting. Capacity is about 1 gallon and you just pump the handle a few times and open the bleeder fitting. It comes with a bottle to fill with brake fluid and set on the master cylinder to keep it full. Pictures and complete details at http://www.griotsgarage.com Price-about $70.

maxnix
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I assume the item to which 911/Q45 refers is the 85700 Brake Fluid Extractor described here ?

911/Q45
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That's the one, all your buddies will want to use it.

maxnix
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I'll put a plug in for this brake fluid. Has higher boiling point when saturated or unsaturated. Increased cost is trivial compared to hydraulic system repairs.

911/Q45
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The way we all use our cars, the boiling point is relatively unimportant. The damage to the hydraulic system occurs from corrosion when any type of fluid is saturated with moisture. The only way to avoid that is to change it every two years.


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