Changin cv axles.

Post by **tps2000** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:15 pm

I have a 2000 maxima and my axles need replacin. How hard is this process? Ihave been scared by a few mechanics who say it is very hard and in my Chilton book it dosent look that difficult. I am pretty good with tools and werkin on stuff. Tanx.

Post by **lightsout** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:00 pm

i just did both of mine last week!!

the driver side is eeeeeezzzzz!!!

the passenger side it s little bit harder b/c there are three little bolts you've got to remove before poping it out of the transmission. just use your 3/8" drive socket wrench, 3/8" elbow, with the 12mm socket, one 6" and one 8" extensions, and snake it through from the left side of the crossmember. you will also need a 1.25" impact drive socket and a breaker bar with a metal pipe extension to remove the axle nut on the outside of the hub.

pix

my passenger side pix:

my driver side pix:

make sure you get the driver side snap ring to sit all the way in so your dust shield is flush with the axle seal. to remove the driver side use a GIANT flathead screwdriver or a short pry bar and some muscle(not too much, work it slow)

Modified by lightsout at 12:10 PM 2/19/2009

Post by **MinisterofDOOM** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:31 pm

Awesome post!

Post by **jmanders** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:50 am

Yea thay are actually really easy to replace, it is good to have a rubber mallot to hit the new ones in. It is also good to get an alignment after you change them.

Post by **lightsout** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 11:55 am

ah, the rubber mallet good reminder jmanders!

i only used the mallet on the driver side b/c of the snap ring. the passenger side doesn't have a snap ring, it has the mounting bracket

Post by **CHORAY911** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:52 pm

It takes more time to find the right tools, and get the right socket to take off the hub nut, than it does to change the axles. If you have the right tools, maybe an hours worth of work. The mechanics were trying to scare you cuz they wanted your money. Two bits of advice; keep a 3# sledge to hammer the axle out of the hub, and make sure you have fluid to refill the transmission, cuz it will leak out.

Post by **jmanders** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:17 pm

The transmission fluid did not leak out when I changed my axles.

Post by **CHORAY911** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:23 pm

jmanders wrote:The transmission fluid did not leak out when I changed my axles.

In that case you didn't have enough dope in the transmission.

Post by **lightsout** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:28 pm

mine leaked out b/c i left it sitting without the axle in it for a few days...crap came up and drivewire.com sent me a CORE from another company instead of a new axle.

don't ever purchase from drivewire.com.....NEVER EVER

horrible customer service, and very unprofessional with a major lack in customer service ethics.

Post by **NutriaforBreakfast** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 8:36 am

It might cost an extra 10$ but I would change out that trannyseal where the CV axle goes in. I took my car in once and theyput in a new CV axle but they made the transmission leak by roughingup that seal putting the axle in. they charged me $ to fix theseal then

Changin cv axles.

Changin cv axles.

Re: Changin cv axles. (tps2000)

Re: Changin cv axles. (lightsout)

Re: Changin cv axles. (MinisterofDOOM)

Re: Changin cv axles. (jmanders)

Re: Changin cv axles. (lightsout)

Re: Changin cv axles. (CHORAY911)

Re: Changin cv axles. (jmanders)

Re: Changin cv axles. (CHORAY911)

Re: Changin cv axles. (tps2000)

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