Changed front main seal now I can't set timing...ka24de

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crakin240
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Took apart the front of the motor without touching the chain and after putting it back together I can't get the timing corrected. Followed the chilton (crap). I set the distributor to the mark as needed and played with it advanced and retard and nothing yet. Also, it wont idle, naturally... Need a tech guru to provide some insight.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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How close are you? 180 out or just +/- 20 degrees? I've always backed the motor up a bit, then inserted the dizzy. It takes a couple times to get it right sometimes.

crakin240
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The manual says lining up a mark on dist. shaft. I've done that but when i use the timing light I cant get but within a couple of inches of the timing mark on the pulley. As for degrees I don't know but a guess would be back and fourth about 20-40 degrees. :mad:

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, try lining the dot up a tooth before or after. Sometimes it moves/sucks it in weird when you put it in.

At TDC on the compression stroke (on cyl #1) with the dizzy cover off, the rotor should more or less be pointing at the wire going to cylinder #1.

crakin240
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yepiddy, I've done all of that as per the Chilton manual. Just cant seem to get the harm. bal. close enough to the timing mark. As i time it it gets close but I can't even get the engine to idle half ash. This stinks. All with my new wheels, 5 lug, and 300z brake swap in the mail!

crakin240
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Also does it matter if the two plugs on th throttle boddy pos. sensor are reversed?
if so which one is supposed to be ontop or at the 12 'o' clock position. red or grey?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You should be doing all this with the TPS unplugged.

crakin240
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mmmm...brain candy. I'll try it like that. What about the MAFS should that be unplugged as well? I work with someone that shortly stated some trick to doing this but didn't get to go into detail. This guy won't be able to help though.

Any insight on the tps plug orientation. Red plug and grey...top or bottom.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The TPS should really only be able to go in one way... did you break the connector or something?

Definitely leave your MAF plugged in during timing adjustment.

crakin240
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No, no breaks I took it apart then got activated for national guard. Can't remember which one was on top.

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ricebike
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yea, Chilton sucks

try the free FSM on this site:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1996/em.pdf

N/A Q45
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Sounds like you're still a tooth off, when you install the dissy make sure that it is pointing close to #1 and that the top bolt is in the middle of its adjustment when it is pushed in the gears cause it to move from where you have it so don't line it up with #1 and then push it in. Make sure it's past #1 and then push it in and that should make it almost line up with #1 and you should have lots of adjustment left or right.

crakin240
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lol yep just realized that tonight and did so. But now it won't idle and that seems to bee the least of my worries. going to try to add gass and sea foam. Might try a new fuel filter as well

N/A Q45
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Now it won't idle? Usually that is because it is undertimed in your case after just messing with the timing. Were you able to get the timing at 1000rpm?

crakin240
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it seemed to be controllable but won't hold idle on its own. I haven't had a chance to add gas I'll try Monday but I was told the gas smelled bad. I couldn't smell it but oh well. I just really want it to run

crakin240
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Ok, took it down the road and it ran fine only if I kept it above 1200 rpm. After, I took off the intake and it had a blueish smog in the throttle body, fuel I assumed. I ran it with the intake and maf out and it seemed fine for a bit it idled and everything. As soon as I plug it in though I get a bad unbalanced rock and then it dies. So I'm going on that and I guess going to change the maf.

Question 1 : I plan on adding a "T" to the KA soon and I know I'll need a z32 maf will that work with s14 wiring and ecu o stock setup?

Q 2 : the maf was clean and intake was clear... Is there a way to be sure the maf is still functioning properly and I am misdiagnosing?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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crakin240 wrote:
Question 1 : I plan on adding a "T" to the KA soon and I know I'll need a z32 maf will that work with s14 wiring and ecu o stock setup?

Q 2 : the maf was clean and intake was clear... Is there a way to be sure the maf is still functioning properly and I am misdiagnosing?
1- I think the only way that works is if you have an N60 MAF and 370cc injectors. Otherwise, you'll need some sort of engine management.

2- You could do voltage and resistance tests outlined in the FSM. I think it's supposed to read .5v with the engine off, key in the on position. I could be wrong though.

crakin240
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I found a video of a guy testing a bmw with a meter but It's not clear cut. Thanks, It'll just have to wait then until I get back from deployment =( . This blows but somehow I think it's a good excuse to pull and rebuild. At least as far as my wife is concerned. ha!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Honestly, I'd tell my wife to stay the hell out of my garage business, and I'll stay the hell out of her garden business.

...then again I'm not married :)

crakin240
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lol, it sounds good in theory but then you allow yourself to be victim of an embargo of precious goods...if you know what I mean.


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