Change of plans, new project!

[superDorifto]

heres my new black project car

picked it up originally as a parts car for the five speed and the extra motor...turns out that the frame is in mint condition soooo, it now the focus of all my energies. im going to be taking my time with this thing and do everthing right.

right now the rear subframe is out and is going to be powdercoated soon. the front will be getting the same treatment as well. while theyre out the car is gonna get a fresh coat of tar underneath...



the motor is ready to come out as well. im selling off as much of the car as possible to finance the forged engine internals. im taking fiz's problems as a lesson and going with forged pistons AND rods...im going to replace all the parts that get sold with parts from my red 240 which is now my daily driver...

you can see my stealth, flat black and rust colored 200sx in the backround...i know i my yard is a little "crowded", what can i say, im a redneck

anyway, the wiring and vaccum are a mess, but nothing a little time and effort cant fix.

ill be posting as part start to roll in.suspension wont be anything fancy, but i do plan on removing the HICAS and the ABS. when it finished it should be a close aproximation of fiz's car, but with slightly less hp. i rode in his car and im positive ill be happy with 350.

Modified by superDorifto at 10:11 AM 8/19/2005
Modified by superDorifto at 1:26 PM 8/29/2005

[fiznat]

Dude looking good! ...Whered you get a digi camera? ...Resizing them, hosting them and posting all at the same time?!?! Is this the Will I know?! Oh right, there are 14044999.223 dead cars in that driveway, it has to be! loll

Cant wait to get working on that beyotch man--- Wanna pull that KA out tomorrow? I'm out at 1300.

[superDorifto]

ive had a camera for like two years, but i never use it. yep, i figured out how to post the damn pics, only took like three hours........i didnt get the motor out today either, ran outta daylight. i expect you to be over here by 1400 biotch so we can get that thing out. another unexpected and super fun thing, there was no fluid in the transmission....

[fiznat]

Sweet haha, yet another suprise from that car. More to come I'm sure.

Is that a freaking can of Raid on top of the air compressor?? hahaha NOT a good sign! lolzers

*get on AIM, mojimo

[superDorifto]

my 200sx was part of a goverment funded experiment on yellow jacket nesting and hive defense behavior......dont worry they all died horrible agonizing deaths with corrosive chemicals eating thier insides...

[turbo98_240sx]

my 200sx was part of a goverment funded experiment on yellow jacket nesting and hive defense behavior......dont worry they all died horrible agonizing deaths with corrosive chemicals eating thier insides...

Nice, it's good to know that I'm not the only one who gets a kick out of killing large amounts of bugs at once. The transmission not having any fluid sounds not so good, I take it your gonna take it apart and fix anything that's wrong in there? Have you considered upgrading/cryo treating the internals if you do? What are your plans for the suspension, like are you going to get new bushings and all that as long as it's apart?And I wish you well in your undertaking because it seems like quite a large one all at once.

[fabio420]

P.S. Dude I love your name. superDorifto HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH LOL. That is a good name and very funny first thing in hte morning

[hannibal]

Looks like fun. So rare to see a HICAS car.

Do you guys powercoat the subframe to fight rust or is it just the bling factor? And is the tar an anti-rust measure as well?

[WDRacing]

I'm starting over myself man...starting from scratch and no shortcuts. Your yard looks like mine would if I wasn't in a Home Owners type of community.

I'm building a new intake manifold and will be using a seperate vacuum resovoir for all the vac lines. You should think about that yourself. Welding one up isn't all that hard really. I'm using mild steal with a phenolic spacer for heat transfer issues. Mostly cause welding aluminum is a PITA and I only have a Mig, no tig.

Take a ton of pics and make it a short story. So we can have a start to finish aspect of the whole thing.

Best of luck and happy boosting.

WD

[superDorifto]

Nice, it's good to know that I'm not the only one who gets a kick out of killing large amounts of bugs at once. The transmission not having any fluid sounds not so good, I take it your gonna take it apart and fix anything that's wrong in there? Have you considered upgrading/cryo treating the internals if you do? What are your plans for the suspension, like are you going to get new bushings and all that as long as it's apart?And I wish you well in your undertaking because it seems like quite a large one all at once.

the suspension is gonna be lightly tuned, but still with enough adjustability to keep a good alignment...AGX's, prokits, NISMO front power brace, and adjustable RUCA and T/C rods (prolly SPL). Im gonna wait till the motor is done and back in the car before i start buying suspension pieces. Also im removing the HICAS, but as a plus ill be able to adjust rear toe with most eliminator kits out there...

[superDorifto]

Looks like fun. So rare to see a HICAS car.

Do you guys powercoat the subframe to fight rust or is it just the bling factor? And is the tar an anti-rust measure as well?

it looks cherry when its done, but im doing it to prevent rust. i live in CT, part of the RUST BELT. i plan on having this car for a while and by taking a proactive approach to rust prevention, i hope i can limit the amount of rot these cars naturally get...everything is getting powdercoated semi gloss black, factory style, so when its done i should be the only one who will ever know that it was done....my kinda mod

[superDorifto]

Well considering that i need to save for new internals....im broke for like the next month. I still need to see some sort of forward progress on the HICAS, so i decided to sort out the intake manifold.

I followed Fiz's writeup, and taking it apart was pretty simple...taking it off of the car was another story tho. It took close to three hrs to get the damn thing off. i finally remembered that i could split it into two halves.

i like the cast aluminum look on Fiz's mani, but i gotta do something different. i had some semi-gloss black lying around, same brand as he used....so i gave it a few coats after hitting it with a wire brush....



I love the way it turned out, BUT i dont like the rattle can durability. its already starting to flake a bit on some edges, and ive been ultra careful when handling it.

bottom line....im gonna get the two halves powdercoated with the rest of my subframe. Same color, but bullet proof.

Also the vaccum line and coolant lines were rusted...Bad. i just roughed them up with a wire brush and hit them with a coat of cast aluminum to see what it would look like...im gonna take them off again and soak them in rust remover. If that doesnt work ill use some electrolosis to get the rust off.

Ahhhhh...progress for 4.99 a can...

[hannibal]

Nice and clean! I'll definitely follow FIz's mod before I install the turbo.

Get rid of that rope!! I saw your other thread. LOL

I wanna see a pic of your tattoo. < (Is that gay???)

[superDorifto]

yes, yes it is.... and I LOVE it baby! Oh man I am so gay... I'm actually on FIRE now! So when are you coming over?
Modified by superDorifto at 12:00 PM 8/19/2005

[sil80drifter]

I'm in CT too, now assembling my SOHC. I was gonna worry abotu rust but I think I'll just let this shell rust to poo and be my experiment shelll for autoX and the engine. Next summer I'll get a mint shell and swap stuff over. Good luck, hopefully we can boost around CT sometime soon. I can hear Fiz laughing in the back, because I said the same exact thing a year ago.

sil80

[fiznat]

haha hey man, I'm in the same boat as you now!

[superDorifto]

fiz,

number 1....your gay

number 2....i turn my back for one second and you edit my post?

number 3....your car is slow....aaaaaaabich...

sil80,

well def meat up. im not gonna be boostin for a while tho, at least 7-9 months as long as nothing comes up financially.

[fiznat]

number 2....i turn my back for one second and you edit my post?

Hey man, the forum does not lie:

Modified by superDorifto at 12:00 PM 8/19/2005

[Nismo_Freak]

1. Yankees != Rednecks, ever. 2. What is up with this CT man fest...

[hannibal]

Nice dragon!

I'll be there around 8pm...

[superDorifto]

Im still saving for internals, but today i started to tackle the nagging little bits of rust, that left unchecked could become a major problem down the road.

total cost of today's affair-----~$10both of these products were bought at my local advance auto parts for like $5 a can.... this is a brush on rust eliminator.. there are lots of different brands, but they all work pretty much the same. take a wire brush and remove as much of the rust scale as humanly possible. brush on a liberal amount of this chemical to neutralize the oxidation reaction causing the rust in the first place. let it dry completly, and the rust should have turned black...it is now safe to coat with your choice of finish....

once again there were alot of undercar coats, brush ons and spray ons. I chose this one because i personally like duplicolor products. If it comes in a rattle can theyre prolly your best choice.

im ready to start

before i started sprayin everywhere i washed the entire area with some mild dish soap to get rid of all the debris, and let it air dry...

next step was to remove all the scale and loose rust i could...i fogot to take a pic of this, opps

heres a couple before pics of the passenger side rear fender well before aplying the rust remover....

the remover took about an hour to dry completely, and when it did i went to town with the undercoat.

i was afraid it wouldnt be thick enough, WOW was i wrong, it coated like it came off a brush...



im VERY happy with the resulting coverage and plan to finish up the rest of the underbody this week. i figure with the coverage i want, 5-6 cans will be more than enough to finish the car. The bottle of rust remover should last thru the whole project as well.

total cost ~$40...score

[Tulsa_S-13]

Sounds like a fun project. I just bought a 1991 Coupe parts car for the engine and 5 speed. The subframe on it is in great condition so I too was going to remove it, get new bushings, powdercoat it. My spare KA will go up on my engine stand this weekend for the tear down and rebuild (forged rods and pistons of course )

[ShadowKnight006]

I was searching and found this post, car looks great. I plan to do something similar with my car once my other 240 is running to be my daily drive. You said you are going to remove the ABS and HICAS, which lead me to wonder why there doesn't seem to be a KA-T w/HICAS anywhere on NICO(atleast that I can find). My car is HICAS and I plan to go the KA-T route but are there any issues beside clearance?

[superDorifto]

its not a clearance issue. to me its a reliability and car control issue. from the people ive talked to the hicas seems to hinder more than help in any perfomance driving situation...i dont like the unpredictabily of the system. also when i bought the car the odometer was over 150000, i really dont want any repair issues to come up down the road. the ABS is just personal preferance. I dont like it. Yes it helps stop the car quicker in a straight line while allowing you to keep control of the car, but i dont like it. the sending unit clutters up the engine bay, and the sensors are expensive to replace (two of mine are not working). Removing both will give me both a cleaner looking engine bay, and a more direct feel for the road. ive removed both systems already, but i havent posted the pictures yet...

if your hicas is in good working condition leave it in , im curious to see how it will feel when your done...

also my plans have changed. because i want to move out of my parents house sometime before im fourty ive decided to tone down the project a bit

basiclly its the turbo system off a DSM (which im very farmiliar with) and a mild JWT ecu tune. this is in addition to all my suspension work.

-16g or 14b turbo-DSM450 injectors with a modified rail and DSM resistor box-jgs log manifold-external WG-DSM BOV-Mitsu Starion FMIC-some custom piping-JWT ecu-LM wideband with gauge-SAFC for tuning purposes

mabyes..-home brew meth kit-forged pistons

prolly gonna run 7-12 lbs of boost. im talking to some local DSM guys and im getting a real good deal on the DSM components. Trying to have the car done by Jan so i can move out...

[ShadowKnight006]

I totally understand the personal preferences. My HICAS is malfunctioning(car has over 180K) but being the obsessive compulsive person that I am, I am going to have it fixed. I just need to find out what is wrong with it first(any idea how to do that?). I'll be interested in your results of that kit. I too have the whole, moving out to worry about fortunately my parents and gf both understand my passion for these cars and are interested to see what both of mine turn out like. Good luck.

[superDorifto]

for my homebrew turbo kit im aiming at the 250 -300hp mark. being around these turbos when i had my dsm, that seems top be at the safe end of their max. ive been looking around the different Ka-t forums and its seems like everyone has nothing but negative coments about the stock mitsu turbos. (disclaimer my opinion-) I find it funny that people think that a plain old t25 is a better option than the 14b or the 16g. the t25 came stock on 2nd gen DSMs, and was a JOKE. everyone i know locally just throws that turbo away and gets a 14b or bigger. i know a lot of dsm guys pushing their 14b,s close to the hairy edge at 275+. today im going to look at two local turbos; one is a super 16g of an evo III, the other is a plain old first gen 14b, im gonna pick up whichever one is in better shape. as for the hicas if you do a search on nico you should be able to find the in car self diagnostic procedure for the system. I think its in the factory service manual too, but i havent looked for it. basiclly once its set in diagnostic mode you drive it at low speeds for a specified amount of time. then you park it and the hicas led in the dash will flash x number of times. decode the number of flashes, and boom! you know what sensors are malfunctioning. in reality i think its a bit more complicated tho, ( and there is no boom either). my Hicas is officially out tho, picked up the base model rear sub frame yesterday along with the non abs brake lines...ill post pics once everything is all powdercoated nicey-nice:naughty

[vvaffle]

Hey I see you powdercoated the fenderwell but isn't there tar there? Or is that old powder coat I have on my car and the tar is only on the bottom?Also, how are you going about with getting a new layer of tar, are you paying someone to do it or how are you doing it yourself. One more thing, did you clean the fenderwell with any product before powdercoating it?

[superDorifto]

the fenderwell is not powdercoated...to powdercoat a part it needs to be electricaly charged, and a fine mist of "powder" is sprayed with a positive charge. magnetism does its thing and the whole part is then "cured" in an oven at temps the would melt most plastic parts....to powdercoat the entire frame would be damn near impossible. Look at the middle part of the tread, you can see the product i used to re-tar the fenderwell, and the way i cleaned it up. Its an aresol based product that looks pretty good IMO when its prepped right.

[vvaffle]

Alright, I guess I confused myself or just forgot what I had already read by the time I got to the bottom of the thread but thanks for explaining it to me. I'm assuming you could use that same rust removing product for minor rust under the hood, like around the strut towers. How would you go about preventing more rust though? Is there any product you would recommend?

[superDorifto]

well the only way to trully get rid of rust is to....weld in new metal, the product i used will slow down the oxidation of the metal, but nothing can stop it completely once its started, its a cancer. the black car has the same rot underneaththe BMC that most s13s have by now, but i cut all the old rusty metal out and have welded in a new piece of 16 gauge steel. i can now say without a doubt that i will pay the extra 1000-2000 dollars for a rust free car next time. Its a PITA plain and simple.