Well some of you may know Im doing the chain guides on another Q this weekend, obviously not doing it on my Q because its on a 94.
Im just writing out the procedures so that in case I misunderstand something
first off, this thread is most helpful... zerothread?id=92996http://forums.nicocl ... ad?id=1632
Special tools needed:30mm socket, 5mm allen socket, crank puller...
1. Remove radiator PS pump bracket that covers the front cover?, belts and tensioners2. Remove crank pulleyRemove crankshaft bolt:- Tools = 30mm socket, 22" chain/strap wrench, 18" breaker & 30" cheater bar- Wrap a 20 inch protective strip of tire inner tube (or old ribbed belt) around the pulley- Cinch the chain or strap wrench around the pulley (any location is OK)- Turn the bolt counter-clockwise until the chain wrench wedges somewhere- Check that the chain wrench wedged somewhere safe & solid- Easily twist the bolt off using leverage (it will not take much effort)- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish
Remove crankshaft pulley:- One assumption is the radiator has already been removed- Tools = 30 mm socket, 24" ratchet, 30" cheater pipe- Replace crankshaft bolt and place the 30mm socket on the bolt- Twist the engine CLOCKWISE (to set #1 piston at compression TDC)- Line up the CAS pointer to 270 degrees (facing engine) to set #1 compression- Line up the left-most pulley notch with the timing-cover dowel to set #1 TDC- Remove the crankshaft bolt without disturbing from #1 compression TDC- With hands, manually tweak back to #1 compression TDC (if necessary)- REMOVE the fat washer & replace the bolt loosly on the crankshaft- Make sure only a few threads are engaged & that the washer is off!- Tools = Sears 2-jaw puller #46903) or equivalent, 3/4 inch box wrench- With a helper, position two puller jaws on the third lip of the pulley- Place a 3/4" box wrench on the puller shaft & twist clockwise- Easily twist the pulley off using leverage (it will not take much effort)- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish
3. Remove lower front cover.. Once all the bolts are removed, use a long pry bar to remove it... Where to pry from? whats the best way to get the lower front cover off??
4. Remove the oil pump chain and guide...
5. Using small tie wraps, secure the chains so that they do not move.
6. R/R chain guides
7. Some have said replacing the tensioners is not necessary????
8. Once eveything is done, reapply RTV on the back of the front cover.. then reassemble everything....
Have I missed anything important?
Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures.
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
From a previous post in my archive:
Chain guides can be a real bear if you run into any snags, but they are straighforward (but time consuming) if you understand the process and have all the right tools. I will send you a few emails, as I don't think I can cover it all in one sitting. Are you an experienced mechanic or a weekend DIY'er? I'm a learning-as-I-go type.First of all you will need the manual. Not a lot there for this job in particular (they didn't think it was a design flaw, afterall) but the information is mandatory and can be boiled down from what's in the EM section (1st 40 pages or so, I think).Hopefully your guides are fine and none of them are in your oil pan. If they are in the pan, I'm not sure you can get them out without removing the pan.
TOOLS NEEDEDGarage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc)Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm) plus a large one (30 or 31mm I think, not entirely sure) for the crank bolt. You will use the 10mm the most by far. See if you can measure the crank bolt if you don't yet have sockets that large. No sense buying tools you won't need. I'll take a look later to see what I have in my garage.Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches. 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe. The installation of the main bolt requires about 270 foot lbs of torque, so I figure 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do.A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe). These can be bought or rented, but I just estimated the torque using the 3 X 90 feel. There's always some "margin" built into designs, so I'm probably OK even if I missed the range a little.Large puller--I used one from Sears, about $30. It has done the trick 3 times so far.A 5mm allen wrench socket. This is CRITICAL. We lost an hour the last time I did this job because we didn't have this tool.A chain wrench with a chain long enough to wrap around the main pulley. I used a Sears strap wrench the first 2 times I did this job, but it did fail on me the 3rd time. Whatever you use, you will need a 2nd extension pipe for this as well.If you use a chain wrench, you'll need some scrap fan belt material just long enough to wrap around the pulley.Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc.
PARTS NEEDEDThis will depend on whether you want to replace the timing chains or not. Keep in mind that replacing the chains will take 2x as long, as you will need to remove the valve covers to do it. This may be necessary anyway, as the valve covers tended to leak after several years. The chains *should* last well toward 300k. Mine are at 213K.Scottsdale Infiniti (infinitipartsusa.com) sells a chain guide kit for about $500. This includes the tensioners, chains, sprockets and gaskets you'll need to do the entire job. BUT, if you don't want to do the chains, then just buy the other stuff. I had a post on the old NICO forum about the parts list:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.....htmlYou won't need the plenum gaskets in the kit, unless you plan to remove the plenum at some point (cleaning, knock sensor replacement, hose replacement, etc). These parts are probably OK at 60k and you can do them later as needed. Not much job overlap.If you do remove the valve covers, you will need to replace all the hoses. Scottsdale also has a kit for this, though I bought them individually so I don't know how complete their kit is.You will also need the cam end seals to do the valve covers. These are small rubber half-moon pieces that go under the valve covers.RTV, oil, coolant. Just replacing what you will remove. Permatex Blue RTV is MUCH easier to work with than Gray, but is rated for a lower temp. Probably just fine, though.
MAIN STEPS IN COVER REMOVAL AND GUIDE REPLACEMENT (NO CHAINS)Remove all plastic trim pieces above and below to expose radiator and coverDrain coolant and remove radiatorRemove all beltsRemove all belt tensionersRemove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front coverRemove coolant hose running across front coverAlign the pulley to TDC Remove pulley main bolt and pulleyRemove front cover screws--know where the lower cover ends and the upper covers begin. You don't need to remove the upper timing covers.Remove the lower front coverRemove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocketCinch the timing chains up real tight to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth. This is the most critical step. If you jump time you will either have to do the job over again and have it professionally timed, or you could even destroy the engineRemove the old chain guides, being very aware of the chains loosening as you remove the guides. Re-cinch if needed to be safe. The odds are small you will jump time, but keep in mind there are rotational forces at work on the cams that might suddenly induce some dangerous slack into the chains if they're loose enough.
Remove the old tensionersInstall new tensioners and guides, carefully loosening the chains as neededIf you have pieces in the oil pan, now is the time to *try* to fish them out but it might be impossbleInstall new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket.Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degreaseApply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts. Use a torque wrench here if possibleInstall everything in the reverse order or removalFill up coolant and oil
That is the outline of the job guide. Straightforward, but it would probably take me 8-10 hours, even on my 4th time. I am willing to expand on any of the steps, but only if you still want do to the job. Keep in mind I did this off the top of my head, and I didn't go into any details. If you have any questions, go ahead and ask. If you decide to do the job, let me know. I'll think of some more tricks for the job. Also, I didn't go into cover removal--that is a larger job, IMO, and I would need to spend more time on that.
Removing the bolt can be done 2 ways...you can use the chain wrench and 2 people (same as installation) OR you can just put the breaker bar on the bolt and rest the breaker bar against the top of the suspension member (driver's side NOT passenger side) and then "pop" the starter motor for a split second. Ensure the injector fuse is pulled first to prevent the motor from firing up. This is a neat trick, though I'm not sure if it shortens the life of the starter. A 2jaw puller will work fine, but it needs to be pretty big. I'm not sure I've ever seen a "bolt on" puller that would work...the bolt pattern on the pulley is very tight and is only for balancing, I think.If you're not planning on doing the chains, I would suggest you do the plenum hoses and the chain guides separately. Again, very little labor overlap between the 2. Take a weekend to do the guides, then after you recover, you can tackle the hoses. Those are far less of a concern.
I too was concerned about messing up the car, so I took REALLY good notes on what I did and put colored tape on every disconnected hose and harness. A digital camera is a good investment overall, and a great item to have for working on cars. When I was in college I (thinking I knew it all) took apart my motorcycle and never got it back together. Luckily it was a cheap lesson and it prepared me well for working on a complex car.I've heard good things about Jerry Tucker, but I have never been there myself. My budget being what it is, I am resigned to doing everything possible on my own. Aside from being cheaper, I get better results than the yahoos at the local shops. After doing the plenum, valve covers, chain guides, and suspension, there are only a few things I'm not willing to tackle to save a few bucks. Plus, I like the work most of the time. I am sure too that Jerry Tucker will do a good job, and a SD vacation might be nice.
The chains I cinched up with a couple tie straps on each one, though wire would work fine. It involves a few iterations to get it right...you need the chains tensioned, but you also need enough slack to remove and replace the guides. The guides are L-shaped, so you have to kind of slide them around and rotate them around the chains to get them out. Again, there isn't a big chance the chains will jump time, but it's important to prevent any sudden movements, like when the cam rotates suddenly because of valve spring load. I didn't see this happening, but that's the goal.
RTV--1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty...probably enough to do the valve covers too if you were so inclined.The "8" guides? Does that include the oil chain...I'm having trouble remembering if the oil chain takes 1 or 2 guides, but the timing chains take 3 guides each. The original design which you'll pull out only used 2 guides per chain, a slack-side and a tension-side. The slack-side guides were metal originally, so they will be almost identical in design. The tension-side guide is what has changed. You will pull out a single (hopefully) piece of plastic and replace it with 2 pieces. Examine the parts...it will become fairly obvious how they go together when you inspect them and compare them to what you pull out. There is a slot in 1 of the 2 pieces, and the other piece has a boss that fits in the slot. Then match up the bolt holes and install.The 5mm allen socket is used on the tensioner screws--those things are bolted in TIGHT! You won't want to break your fingers using an allen wrench, and if the allen wrench broke, you would be in trouble. Happened to us and it cost us an hour.Some things I just thought of...when you remove all the cover bolts there are a couple places to start prying. One place is from the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator. There is a small flange there--you can use a screwdriver under the flange to pry the cover from the block. There is another flange on the top edge of the cover just below the water pump, though you may need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to it, depending on your tools. Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible--there is a solid gasket between the lower and upper timing covers that you don't want to damage.
Immediately after removing the cover, I strongly suggest you block the crack above the oil pan with towels to prevent any hardware/debris from falling into the oil pan. You'll find a 1/2" opening at the front lip of the oil pan. If by any chance your guides are already broken, you will have to try fishing them out via this gap.
Before you replace the cover, be sure to clean both mating faces real well to ensure a tight RTV bond. Again, mind the solid gasket above the cover as you install it--if it gets bent downward it will make life a little hard. Note there is no RTV between the cover and the solid gasket. Once you get all edges in place, tap the cover on with a rubber mallet. Install all screws with a torque wrench...it doesn't take much to break them and is another reason why blue RTV is good. A thicker RTV may not squeeze out fast enough and you will torque at 7 ft-lbs for a while until the screw breaks.Most important of all, give the main pulley at least 2 full turns by hand before starting the car just in case. I installed the main bolt hand tight, and then turned it with a large ratchet a couple times. You'll feel and hear the compresson cycles, and hopefully nothing else. If anything's wrong, now is the time to find out. Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts. 2 strong guys are probably best for this step, though you may be able to rest the strap wrench against something (pulley, alternator?). Just be careful not to break anything...that's a lot of torque across such a short distance. About 650 lbs of force at 5" away. The engineering says it will be fine, but my intuition is a worry-wart.
Chain guides can be a real bear if you run into any snags, but they are straighforward (but time consuming) if you understand the process and have all the right tools. I will send you a few emails, as I don't think I can cover it all in one sitting. Are you an experienced mechanic or a weekend DIY'er? I'm a learning-as-I-go type.First of all you will need the manual. Not a lot there for this job in particular (they didn't think it was a design flaw, afterall) but the information is mandatory and can be boiled down from what's in the EM section (1st 40 pages or so, I think).Hopefully your guides are fine and none of them are in your oil pan. If they are in the pan, I'm not sure you can get them out without removing the pan.
TOOLS NEEDEDGarage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc)Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm) plus a large one (30 or 31mm I think, not entirely sure) for the crank bolt. You will use the 10mm the most by far. See if you can measure the crank bolt if you don't yet have sockets that large. No sense buying tools you won't need. I'll take a look later to see what I have in my garage.Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches. 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe. The installation of the main bolt requires about 270 foot lbs of torque, so I figure 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do.A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe). These can be bought or rented, but I just estimated the torque using the 3 X 90 feel. There's always some "margin" built into designs, so I'm probably OK even if I missed the range a little.Large puller--I used one from Sears, about $30. It has done the trick 3 times so far.A 5mm allen wrench socket. This is CRITICAL. We lost an hour the last time I did this job because we didn't have this tool.A chain wrench with a chain long enough to wrap around the main pulley. I used a Sears strap wrench the first 2 times I did this job, but it did fail on me the 3rd time. Whatever you use, you will need a 2nd extension pipe for this as well.If you use a chain wrench, you'll need some scrap fan belt material just long enough to wrap around the pulley.Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc.
PARTS NEEDEDThis will depend on whether you want to replace the timing chains or not. Keep in mind that replacing the chains will take 2x as long, as you will need to remove the valve covers to do it. This may be necessary anyway, as the valve covers tended to leak after several years. The chains *should* last well toward 300k. Mine are at 213K.Scottsdale Infiniti (infinitipartsusa.com) sells a chain guide kit for about $500. This includes the tensioners, chains, sprockets and gaskets you'll need to do the entire job. BUT, if you don't want to do the chains, then just buy the other stuff. I had a post on the old NICO forum about the parts list:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.....htmlYou won't need the plenum gaskets in the kit, unless you plan to remove the plenum at some point (cleaning, knock sensor replacement, hose replacement, etc). These parts are probably OK at 60k and you can do them later as needed. Not much job overlap.If you do remove the valve covers, you will need to replace all the hoses. Scottsdale also has a kit for this, though I bought them individually so I don't know how complete their kit is.You will also need the cam end seals to do the valve covers. These are small rubber half-moon pieces that go under the valve covers.RTV, oil, coolant. Just replacing what you will remove. Permatex Blue RTV is MUCH easier to work with than Gray, but is rated for a lower temp. Probably just fine, though.
MAIN STEPS IN COVER REMOVAL AND GUIDE REPLACEMENT (NO CHAINS)Remove all plastic trim pieces above and below to expose radiator and coverDrain coolant and remove radiatorRemove all beltsRemove all belt tensionersRemove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front coverRemove coolant hose running across front coverAlign the pulley to TDC Remove pulley main bolt and pulleyRemove front cover screws--know where the lower cover ends and the upper covers begin. You don't need to remove the upper timing covers.Remove the lower front coverRemove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocketCinch the timing chains up real tight to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth. This is the most critical step. If you jump time you will either have to do the job over again and have it professionally timed, or you could even destroy the engineRemove the old chain guides, being very aware of the chains loosening as you remove the guides. Re-cinch if needed to be safe. The odds are small you will jump time, but keep in mind there are rotational forces at work on the cams that might suddenly induce some dangerous slack into the chains if they're loose enough.
Remove the old tensionersInstall new tensioners and guides, carefully loosening the chains as neededIf you have pieces in the oil pan, now is the time to *try* to fish them out but it might be impossbleInstall new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket.Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degreaseApply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts. Use a torque wrench here if possibleInstall everything in the reverse order or removalFill up coolant and oil
That is the outline of the job guide. Straightforward, but it would probably take me 8-10 hours, even on my 4th time. I am willing to expand on any of the steps, but only if you still want do to the job. Keep in mind I did this off the top of my head, and I didn't go into any details. If you have any questions, go ahead and ask. If you decide to do the job, let me know. I'll think of some more tricks for the job. Also, I didn't go into cover removal--that is a larger job, IMO, and I would need to spend more time on that.
Removing the bolt can be done 2 ways...you can use the chain wrench and 2 people (same as installation) OR you can just put the breaker bar on the bolt and rest the breaker bar against the top of the suspension member (driver's side NOT passenger side) and then "pop" the starter motor for a split second. Ensure the injector fuse is pulled first to prevent the motor from firing up. This is a neat trick, though I'm not sure if it shortens the life of the starter. A 2jaw puller will work fine, but it needs to be pretty big. I'm not sure I've ever seen a "bolt on" puller that would work...the bolt pattern on the pulley is very tight and is only for balancing, I think.If you're not planning on doing the chains, I would suggest you do the plenum hoses and the chain guides separately. Again, very little labor overlap between the 2. Take a weekend to do the guides, then after you recover, you can tackle the hoses. Those are far less of a concern.
I too was concerned about messing up the car, so I took REALLY good notes on what I did and put colored tape on every disconnected hose and harness. A digital camera is a good investment overall, and a great item to have for working on cars. When I was in college I (thinking I knew it all) took apart my motorcycle and never got it back together. Luckily it was a cheap lesson and it prepared me well for working on a complex car.I've heard good things about Jerry Tucker, but I have never been there myself. My budget being what it is, I am resigned to doing everything possible on my own. Aside from being cheaper, I get better results than the yahoos at the local shops. After doing the plenum, valve covers, chain guides, and suspension, there are only a few things I'm not willing to tackle to save a few bucks. Plus, I like the work most of the time. I am sure too that Jerry Tucker will do a good job, and a SD vacation might be nice.
The chains I cinched up with a couple tie straps on each one, though wire would work fine. It involves a few iterations to get it right...you need the chains tensioned, but you also need enough slack to remove and replace the guides. The guides are L-shaped, so you have to kind of slide them around and rotate them around the chains to get them out. Again, there isn't a big chance the chains will jump time, but it's important to prevent any sudden movements, like when the cam rotates suddenly because of valve spring load. I didn't see this happening, but that's the goal.
RTV--1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty...probably enough to do the valve covers too if you were so inclined.The "8" guides? Does that include the oil chain...I'm having trouble remembering if the oil chain takes 1 or 2 guides, but the timing chains take 3 guides each. The original design which you'll pull out only used 2 guides per chain, a slack-side and a tension-side. The slack-side guides were metal originally, so they will be almost identical in design. The tension-side guide is what has changed. You will pull out a single (hopefully) piece of plastic and replace it with 2 pieces. Examine the parts...it will become fairly obvious how they go together when you inspect them and compare them to what you pull out. There is a slot in 1 of the 2 pieces, and the other piece has a boss that fits in the slot. Then match up the bolt holes and install.The 5mm allen socket is used on the tensioner screws--those things are bolted in TIGHT! You won't want to break your fingers using an allen wrench, and if the allen wrench broke, you would be in trouble. Happened to us and it cost us an hour.Some things I just thought of...when you remove all the cover bolts there are a couple places to start prying. One place is from the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator. There is a small flange there--you can use a screwdriver under the flange to pry the cover from the block. There is another flange on the top edge of the cover just below the water pump, though you may need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to it, depending on your tools. Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible--there is a solid gasket between the lower and upper timing covers that you don't want to damage.
Immediately after removing the cover, I strongly suggest you block the crack above the oil pan with towels to prevent any hardware/debris from falling into the oil pan. You'll find a 1/2" opening at the front lip of the oil pan. If by any chance your guides are already broken, you will have to try fishing them out via this gap.
Before you replace the cover, be sure to clean both mating faces real well to ensure a tight RTV bond. Again, mind the solid gasket above the cover as you install it--if it gets bent downward it will make life a little hard. Note there is no RTV between the cover and the solid gasket. Once you get all edges in place, tap the cover on with a rubber mallet. Install all screws with a torque wrench...it doesn't take much to break them and is another reason why blue RTV is good. A thicker RTV may not squeeze out fast enough and you will torque at 7 ft-lbs for a while until the screw breaks.Most important of all, give the main pulley at least 2 full turns by hand before starting the car just in case. I installed the main bolt hand tight, and then turned it with a large ratchet a couple times. You'll feel and hear the compresson cycles, and hopefully nothing else. If anything's wrong, now is the time to find out. Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts. 2 strong guys are probably best for this step, though you may be able to rest the strap wrench against something (pulley, alternator?). Just be careful not to break anything...that's a lot of torque across such a short distance. About 650 lbs of force at 5" away. The engineering says it will be fine, but my intuition is a worry-wart.
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elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (maxnix)
Ahh yes ive read that a few times...
Thanks though.. helps
Thanks though.. helps
-
maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
Anytime.
You are a braver man than I.
You are a braver man than I.
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
I'm a mechanical dumbass.I can only do some basic things when it comes to maintance or repairs.How can you tell when you need your chain guides replaced?Is that something you do after a certain mile marker?Whats your suggestion if I got a Y33 with 95k?
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elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (Chansen)
only necessary on a 90-93 Q45Chansen wrote:I'm a mechanical dumbass.I can only do some basic things when it comes to maintance or repairs.How can you tell when you need your chain guides replaced?Is that something you do after a certain mile marker?Whats your suggestion if I got a Y33 with 95k?
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
oh ok..Well thx for the info Wes
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squeefoo
- Posts: 1053
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- Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1994 Nissan Maxima SE
1999 Infiniti I30
2003 Nissan Maxima Titanium
2006 Nissan Xterra Off Road
2012 Infiniti G37x S
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
Yo ! Three things I remember:
Put a piece of cardboard in front (on the back) of the condenser. It's amazing how stuff scrapes and dings the fins when you're not looking.
When you put the allen socket in the socket head bolts holding on the guides themselves; blow them out first -then shoot 'em with carb cleaner - then blow them out again. Put the hex socket in and then tap it with a small hammer until it seats (you can hear it seat). It won't strip out like somebody here did .
Take a piece of cardboard and draw an outline of the cover assembly, then poke the bolts through as you remove them. There are 32 bolts w/ 6 different lengths, and 2 diameters. It really sucks to put a short one in a long hole then feel the threads suck out of the hole, especially in an aluminum block.
BONUS: Remove and reseal the inspection port on the lower left, since it will leak after you put the cover back on. (Ask my Dad)BONUS 2: Might as well put on a new H20 pump
Put a piece of cardboard in front (on the back) of the condenser. It's amazing how stuff scrapes and dings the fins when you're not looking.
When you put the allen socket in the socket head bolts holding on the guides themselves; blow them out first -then shoot 'em with carb cleaner - then blow them out again. Put the hex socket in and then tap it with a small hammer until it seats (you can hear it seat). It won't strip out like somebody here did .
Take a piece of cardboard and draw an outline of the cover assembly, then poke the bolts through as you remove them. There are 32 bolts w/ 6 different lengths, and 2 diameters. It really sucks to put a short one in a long hole then feel the threads suck out of the hole, especially in an aluminum block.
BONUS: Remove and reseal the inspection port on the lower left, since it will leak after you put the cover back on. (Ask my Dad)BONUS 2: Might as well put on a new H20 pump
Like a hemophiliac in the razor blade factory of life....maxnix wrote:You are a braver man than I.
Re: Chain guides this weekend.... Verifying procedures. (elwesso)
Wes,The cardboard diagram Squee mentioned is an invaluable timesaver- too many bolts and lengths to keep track of.
The pry points are to the left of the inspection port and to the right of the water pump. You will see an extra "lip" of material to put the pry bar under. Be gentle and alternate sides.
When pulling the crank pulley, don't put the jaws of the puller on the lip on the back of the pulley (closest to the front cover)- it will likely chip off. The lip in the center of the pulley (behind the belt groove closest to the front of the pulley- alternator belt groove I think) is beefier and less likely to chip. Change the positions of the jaws a couple times to avoid chipping the pulley lip as well.
Tell your guy to replace the tensioners, too. If it has high mileage I would do the oil pump also. Pulling the plenum is cake compared to this job- why risk having to do it again.
Before replacing the front cover, gently bend the lip of the oil pan downward. It makes it much easier to seat the front cover without scraping all the RTV off. When you put the 4 bolts in to the oil pan lip and tighten them it will pull the lip up again - if you didn't bend it too far that is .
Remember, before start up, keep the fuel pump fuse out and crank the starter for a few seconds 15 or so times. Priming the tensioners this way makes it a painless start up. Otherwise the timing chains slapping around until the tensioners pump up is the most horrendous sound you never want to hear coming from your engine.
Call if you have questions in process. Have fun!
Paul
The pry points are to the left of the inspection port and to the right of the water pump. You will see an extra "lip" of material to put the pry bar under. Be gentle and alternate sides.
When pulling the crank pulley, don't put the jaws of the puller on the lip on the back of the pulley (closest to the front cover)- it will likely chip off. The lip in the center of the pulley (behind the belt groove closest to the front of the pulley- alternator belt groove I think) is beefier and less likely to chip. Change the positions of the jaws a couple times to avoid chipping the pulley lip as well.
Tell your guy to replace the tensioners, too. If it has high mileage I would do the oil pump also. Pulling the plenum is cake compared to this job- why risk having to do it again.
Before replacing the front cover, gently bend the lip of the oil pan downward. It makes it much easier to seat the front cover without scraping all the RTV off. When you put the 4 bolts in to the oil pan lip and tighten them it will pull the lip up again - if you didn't bend it too far that is .
Remember, before start up, keep the fuel pump fuse out and crank the starter for a few seconds 15 or so times. Priming the tensioners this way makes it a painless start up. Otherwise the timing chains slapping around until the tensioners pump up is the most horrendous sound you never want to hear coming from your engine.
Call if you have questions in process. Have fun!
Paul