center lock wheels / wire wheels
center lock wheels / wire wheels
how do these work? i was under the impression that jgtc cars used around 400 ft/lbs on the lug(s)f. so how does some ghetto dude in a busted *** lincoln keep his wheel adapters and gladiator spike center lock from comming off?
Re: (nismofly)
no im sure they are center lock. daytons i know for sure are center lock, they probably make a lot of wire wheels with just center caps, but i know a lot of them are center lock.
heres a pic of the adapters
and heres a wire wheel
these things are used for the center bolts
but thats all i know. it just seems very un safe to me, but i see it all the time so it must work pretty good.. but i dont know how? anyone know?
heres a pic of the adapters
and heres a wire wheel
these things are used for the center bolts
but thats all i know. it just seems very un safe to me, but i see it all the time so it must work pretty good.. but i dont know how? anyone know?
These are called true knock offs
The adapter plate has a splined head, that the wheel sits on, and that accepts the center piece to hold the assy on.
The spike head has an adapter wrench that fits over it, then the handle of said wrench is struck with a hammer to loosen/tighten.
The wing-ed centers are struck with a hammer(a lead hammer, because the lead hammer head is softer than the metal/chrome) to loosen/tighten.
There is no scientific way to install these wheels cleanly and precisely.
LEft side wheels get left hand thread adapters and centers, Right hand side gets right hand thread adpaters and centers.
This stuff sucks so much.The only way to get these tight is to hit the center(or adapter, as described above) with the lead headed hammer, again and again until it absolutely won't budge.
The hoods that come in for service on their tires have some interesting old lead headed hammers that look like blooming onion from age and use.
Crude
The adapter plate has a splined head, that the wheel sits on, and that accepts the center piece to hold the assy on.
The spike head has an adapter wrench that fits over it, then the handle of said wrench is struck with a hammer to loosen/tighten.
The wing-ed centers are struck with a hammer(a lead hammer, because the lead hammer head is softer than the metal/chrome) to loosen/tighten.
There is no scientific way to install these wheels cleanly and precisely.
LEft side wheels get left hand thread adapters and centers, Right hand side gets right hand thread adpaters and centers.
This stuff sucks so much.The only way to get these tight is to hit the center(or adapter, as described above) with the lead headed hammer, again and again until it absolutely won't budge.
The hoods that come in for service on their tires have some interesting old lead headed hammers that look like blooming onion from age and use.
Crude
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that crap makes baby jesus cry
I've seen at least 3 suv's in the past few months stranded in the middle of traffic near my work because one of their dubs fell off. i try not to laugh out loud as I drive by, but its hard not to seeing as they have traffic backed up for 4 blocks.
on the flip side, who wants to open a wheel shop with me. we'll make millions selling spokies and whistle tips
I've seen at least 3 suv's in the past few months stranded in the middle of traffic near my work because one of their dubs fell off. i try not to laugh out loud as I drive by, but its hard not to seeing as they have traffic backed up for 4 blocks.
on the flip side, who wants to open a wheel shop with me. we'll make millions selling spokies and whistle tips
I remember around 10 years ago every hood that came into my shop was getting 15" 30 spoke Cragar knockoffs and skinny *** Vouge Tyres.
They are a PAIN to put on and get off, even with the lead hammer and wrench they come with to install them. As SRsmith said, they have an adapter that bolts to your hub as seen in the picture. THey are color coded for left and right hand side, and the threads, as SR said, are left and right hand accordingly.
You are supposed to check them every few hundred miles and make sure they are tight (put the included wrench on and hit it a few more times). If you put left on the right and vice versa, they WILL fall off going down the road. I've seen it happen.
The one REALLY bad thing about them, if you don't use some type of anti-seize compound on the threads, theres a decent chance the center nut will freze on there, and nothing short of a stick of dynamyte is going to free it up. I saw one guy use a 6 foot cheater bar, impact gun, sledge hammers, and still couldn't get his off. Ended up having to heat the nut till it was glowing red with a torch before it would budge.
They are a PAIN to put on and get off, even with the lead hammer and wrench they come with to install them. As SRsmith said, they have an adapter that bolts to your hub as seen in the picture. THey are color coded for left and right hand side, and the threads, as SR said, are left and right hand accordingly.
You are supposed to check them every few hundred miles and make sure they are tight (put the included wrench on and hit it a few more times). If you put left on the right and vice versa, they WILL fall off going down the road. I've seen it happen.
The one REALLY bad thing about them, if you don't use some type of anti-seize compound on the threads, theres a decent chance the center nut will freze on there, and nothing short of a stick of dynamyte is going to free it up. I saw one guy use a 6 foot cheater bar, impact gun, sledge hammers, and still couldn't get his off. Ended up having to heat the nut till it was glowing red with a torch before it would budge.
Re: (BaliLover)
wow that sounds super ghetto. i always wondered how these worked, but, bang on it with a lead hammer? lol. caveman rims. thanks for clearing that up smith / bali