Center Driveshaft Support (UPDATED) 3/25

[jdansmith]

So I just got the muffler replaced because of rot and I listen to cd's while driving and I wanted to check out the new exhaust note, turned down the tunes/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf9-BCix4io and I heard a rattle like the exhaust was loose. I trust my muffler man who has done several duel systems for me with top notch work. So I cut off the cd player, 35 miles from home and I keep hearing the rattle but only when starting from a dead stop. Brake torqued it and no motor movement, same in reverse so I'm thinking WTF????? I drive home real careful because the lighter I pressed the accelerator the noise diminished but was still there.

I get home and fiddle with the new exhaust and every thing was A+ with the exhaust.
So I'm thinking Cat. converter broke loose inside so after a few raps with my palm it seems to be up to snuff??????? More confused than ever I start fondling everything under the truck and get to the drive shaft and BINGO, squeaky, squeaky, rattle, rattle.

The center drive shaft support mount is shot, the rubber has separated and has to be replaced. Anyone have to do this and any tips, tricks??? From what little online I found the bearing is not pressed on and I'm smart enough to scribe a chalk mark to line things back up.

This is the culprit and all the local parts places are not in stock. Any brand to avoid or favor? Is this a Stealership item that best results in using OEM? Thanks for any input or advise/suggestions in advance.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0362

[seang]

I usually look on Rockauto for prices, and then Google the brand name of the part for any possble reviews. I also check with local stores just in case the price difference between an internet store's and theirs' is negligible, but you already did that looks like.

[jdansmith]

So I've been slack this wk by not posting updates but the bearing has been replaced and required a few hrs. to complete. My 14 year old son did a good bit of the work to gain some exp.

Pics of the old bearing, we peeled away the old rubber to aid in removing the bearing.







My 10 year old daughter was the inspector and photographer.
Pic of the new bearing.





The old bearing is not pressed on but a vise, hammer and brass punch are recommended to tap the shaft apart. Don't do what this guy and hammer the dust cover for the bearing.I punched a hole through it requiring a replacement and a unnecessary trip. I should have known better but you don't have much metal surface to hit and the rubber absorbs too much of the blow. Next one I do I will remove all the old rubber and use the metal the rubber was bonded to.

This is a pic. of the separated shaft after the bearing was removed. There is a 1 1/16th inch nut and a copper washer that have to be removed before separating the shaft.





The new bearing came with a 24 mm nut and copper washer but I chose to use the original nut with the new copper washer.




Be sure to keep the splines and shaft that goes into the trans. clean and protected from scratching and debris.





A thin film of synthetic oil was used to aid in assembly.



Dust cover in place, bearing, then copper washer then the nut and that concludes the reassembly. CAUTION I used chalk as recommended to mark the trans. and ea. piece of the shafts to be sure they were all lined up when reinstalled and it was getting rubbed off from working on it. I had some white touch up paint that I used instead and worked much better.

In all not a terrible driveway project but the extra set of hands and patience were needed. To get the shaft to separate to remove the bearing required more force than I expected. The end result the noise is gone and a slight shudder I had when taking off is also gone. It feels like a new truck now.