Due to a leaking connector tube (between the header flange and the rear cat) I must replace a rear catalytic converter on my 90 Q.
Scottsdales Price- $588.Reman Price - $280.Replacement $230.
All plus shipping, about $20.The replacement comes with 2 yr warranty-an EPA reg, I think. The reman matches it. I believe the Nissan part has 5/50. The parts rep I spoke with at Scottsdale said one year, but I think he was confusing it with the usual terms.I am leaning to the reman part, for the combination of quality and cost reasons. I can't find out who the remanufacturer is, but two places quoted me identical prices, and said its "the largest", "back East", company.
Any experience or suggestions? I don't think this will be a DIY for me, as I'm not sure I can get the old one off with no torch or even air tools.
Catalytic Converter Replacement
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The oem mandates a thicker deposit of the catalyst [on the base honeycomb] so they last longer. Its all about suface area and back pressure.
Many of the so called high flow cats don't have enough area to last very long, many of the less expensive replacements are built to pass a single emission test so you can sell the car.
[At the low cost end] You really never know [the quality level] what you get until you replace and test.
Many of the so called high flow cats don't have enough area to last very long, many of the less expensive replacements are built to pass a single emission test so you can sell the car.
[At the low cost end] You really never know [the quality level] what you get until you replace and test.
Not legal to install one fron a wrecked car. I want to be sure I have the proof should I need it. I purchased a reman from a local distributor for $225. Rebuilt by Brown Co., which may be in Alabama? I will install it soon. After looking at the condition of the studs I think I will be able to PBBlast my way through!
Ended up replacing both, as they each had rust in the same place, right beyond the header/ precat flange. Used the two rebuilds, and new studs, bolts, and gaskets from Scottsdale. The studs came loose with the "two bolt" method, and actually could have been reused, but it is nicer to use new.
As for performance, well, it's quieter at full throttle. It happens that I noticed that a water hose under the plenum was leaking. It was the only one the previous owner left in. So, while I had the plenum off, I replaced the knock sensors. They were really cracked up ( no codes yet). I notice less pinging- was it the converters' pressure or the KS? I will never know.
As for performance, well, it's quieter at full throttle. It happens that I noticed that a water hose under the plenum was leaking. It was the only one the previous owner left in. So, while I had the plenum off, I replaced the knock sensors. They were really cracked up ( no codes yet). I notice less pinging- was it the converters' pressure or the KS? I will never know.