CAS or Ignitor

[busteds13]

SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i just want to confirm, my suspicions, when i first got the car runnning, it ran like poo, then the next day it ran good, boosted and everything, up to 5 lbs, but later on didnt want to run good at all.like stumbly trottle responce, more than 15 % throttle underload, and sometimes at idle, kills th engine instead of revving it. the ecu gives me no codes, and i checked the mafs, and coils, and injectors, and idle switch, and tps. vac says 20 lbs at idle, so no leaks, water temp sensor is new so are the spark plugs, compression is good, could my cas or ignitor be in the progress of sh!tt!ng the bed, without telling me so? oh and the fpr is set right, and theres a new o2 sensor in, and i grounded the engine in a few diffrent places

honestly..........

Modified by busteds13 at 11:28 AM 5/18/2007
Modified by busteds13 at 6:38 PM 5/21/2007

[Sil40sK]

Huh? Could you please try to make your post a little more coherent? Using punctuation marks helps a lot. Did you check your timing?

[busteds13]

sorry i was a lill tired when i wrote that, and the timing is good, 15 degrees below on the slot

oh and the knock sensor has been wired directly to the ECU and grounded the sheilding at that end

everything should be running good, but it aint
Modified by busteds13 at 11:51 AM 5/18/2007

[busteds13]

ok 30 views and no thoughts?

she revs fine, up after 2500 rpms, up until like 3000 she stumbles all over the place, if i try to floor it under no load, the revs drop, its like shes sckrambling to catch up and failing at

[mikesim]

sounds like your MAF sensor

[Sil40sK]

sounds like your MAF sensor

+1

[boost_boy]

i just want to confirm, my suspicions, when i first got the car runnning, it ran like poo, then the next day it ran good, boosted and everything, up to 5 lbs, but later on didnt want to run good at all.like stumbly trottle responce, more than 15 % throttle underload, and sometimes at idle, kills th engine instead of revving it. the ecu gives me no codes, and i checked the mafs, and coils, and injectors, and idle switch, and tps. vac says 20 lbs at idle, so no leaks, water temp sensor is new so are the spark plugs, compression is good, could my cas or ignitor be in the progress of sh!tt!ng the bed, without telling me so? oh and the fpr is set right, and theres a new o2 sensor in, and i grounded the engine in a few diffrent places

honestly..........

Modified by busteds13 at 11:28 AM 5/18/2007

When you suspect parts are suspect, check the codes on the ecu because an AFM issue will prompt a code 12 if there's any abnormalty in operation.

Dee

[busteds13]

no codes, so im confused, none and i checked the ignition switch, and the3 vheicle speed sensor, the quesion is, could the CAS be pooping the bed, without throwing a code?

same for ignitor

im frustrated

and the car needs to run soon

grrrrrrrrr

[mikesim]

if your CAS is broken, your car wouldn't even start.

ignitor would cause intermittant misfiring or stalling, especially if it's dead on cylinder 1.

whip out your FSM and read through EF&EC 32 to 129. as much as the people here want to help you, they really can't be much help without going through the diganosis steps themselves. I've had similar problems this year and what i've learned is everyone's situation is not 100% alike. you have to go through the steps (if you can't, give your car and the FSM to a mechanic who knows what they're doing) and solve it yourself. it's a tough learning experience, but it's better than what i've done the last 3 months, and that's replace parts without having any bearing on actually solving the problem. you'll just end up wasting money on parts you didn't have to replace.

[busteds13]

if your CAS is broken, your car wouldn't even start.

ignitor would cause intermittant misfiring or stalling, especially if it's dead on cylinder 1.

thats exactly what i was thinking (ignitor) it didnt quite make it through all its tests acording to he FSM i just re ran those yesterday, and ive gone through allmost al of the tests in the FSM and all have come up clear, im gonna test the MAF harness in a few mins, i havent quite gotten to that part yet, thanx all

the thing i meant about the CAS was if its old and out of Spec, and is missing some of those little notches in it and fubaring everything i read on another post here that the cas wouldent throw any codes if it misses the little inbeetween notches but doesent miss the bigger like 45* notches or something along those lines.

[busteds13]

ok new ignitor, new CAS, ran the tests from the FSM on the MAFS and on everything else like posted above, new o2 sensor, new plugs, all the coils pass the test, and the ECU gives me no codes

at this point im pissed off enough to sell it, who wants an s13 with a swapped CA18DET? exaust, and ill throw in a wideband, and an safc, only thing wrong with the car is it needs a front passenger tierod, and the paintjob is ugly

[mikesim]

ok new ignitor, new CAS, ran the tests from the FSM on the MAFS and on everything else like posted above, new o2 sensor, new plugs, all the coils pass the test, and the ECU gives me no codes

at this point im pissed off enough to sell it, who wants an s13 with a swapped CA18DET? exaust, and ill throw in a wideband, and an safc, only thing wrong with the car is it needs a front passenger tierod, and the paintjob is ugly

i'm in the same boat as you, buddy. the freaking thing just died on me yesterday and now it won't start. i'm done with toying around with it, and god knows what a shop would charge me to fix it. Some people here with similar problems just ended up getting stand alone and redone all their wiring.

[busteds13]

well i got her running, double check your fpr, i checked the pressure on mine, and it says 60 PSI but she runs good so im confused

[adam-gtX]

so what was it?

[mikesim]

well i got her running, double check your fpr, i checked the pressure on mine, and it says 60 PSI but she runs good so im confused

that's crazy man. i have an aeromotive FPR, and i had the problem before i bought mine. i double checked the fuel pressure today, and it was right on 36 psi. what's wierd though is even though i don't start the car, the fuel pressure drops with time with the ignition on. shouldn't it stay the same?

[mod_mastaz]

I'm not sure about S13s, but some cars come with a check valve to hold fuel pressure when the fuel pump isn't running. Maybe that's what's causing your pressure to drop? An old fuel pump could cause it to not hold pressure when it's not running.

[busteds13]

Dont quote me on this but, if you put the fuel gauge between the feed on the fuel rail and the fuel filter that will give you the best reading, otherwise its not accurateas for the fuel pressure dropping when the engine is running, thats because the injectors are sucking it ini think my fuel presure is so high because i have a sh1tty e-ghey FPRand now my car runs pig rich, and backfires whenever i shift,ehh.... at least she runs finally

^but dont quote me on any of that, someone older and wiser inform the newbs......

[mikesim]

yea, my fuel gauge is right on the FPR. i don't want to put it before the fuel rail because that's more plumbing, and the FPR would have a hole in it.

the fuel pressure is dropping without the car running, but with the key in the "on" position.

I still have to get my car from where it's parked to the garage so i can redo the wiring for the walbro 255lph pump (hard wired with a new relay and thicker gauge). it's been in there for 1.5 years already, but i have to eliminate all the possibilities, right?

[busteds13]

with the car off, and the fuel pump not working, you shouldent have any fuel pressure,

your situation confuses me

[mikesim]

when you turn your key to "on" the fuel pump turns on. that's how you read your fuel pressure without the car running. you shouldn't be reading it while it's running, because it's naturally lower.

[busteds13]

if it starts at 36 and slowly works its way down i would check you fuel pump, cuz it might be craping the bed slowly but sureley, if its notthat then the fuel filter or the wiring is building up resitance, and causing the pump not to get enough power, i wired mine with a 30 amp fuse straight from the battery to the pump with a switch (extra saftey, cutttof switch), that would be mie assumption, but in my case i hafta act as my own turbo timer, ie: stand outside the car for the length of a ciggarete to let it cool down, but then again, ghettorigged is this cars middle name.....