CAS adjust or replace?

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entrapm3nt
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So i checked my ECU today and its giving code 11. Does this mean i can adjust the cam angle sensor or do i have to buy another one? I think something else is also making it not run. besides no gas :tisk: . it had a gas leak when i bought it i tightend the clamps but i think its all the way empty somehow. cant hear full pump anymore. no crank or start. But when i bought it 2 weeks ago it would crank but not turn over. now its nothing. but like i said pretty sure no gas. Will the CAS make the Z not run? Thanks for your time in advance. :dblthumb:


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entrapm3nt
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Should i just get another VG swap? Dont really have the extra funds for a TT just yet. Plus its auto i would like to change it eventually...

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Z-owned
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Unplug and check for corrosion on the cas plug/harness. Well your at it, probably wouldnt hurt to check for corrosion else where throughout the bay particularly the ptu and injector's.

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entrapm3nt
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Z-owned wrote:Unplug and check for corrosion on the cas plug/harness. Well your at it, probably wouldnt hurt to check for corrosion else where throughout the bay particularly the ptu and injector's.
Thanks. Is it possible to remove the corrosion?

Also, will the CAS make the 300zx not start?

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300ZXttZMAN
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Correct. A bad CAS can make the Z not start and or run very poorly.

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entrapm3nt
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300ZXttZMAN wrote:Correct. A bad CAS can make the Z not start and or run very poorly.
Thanks for that answer Zman. Do I need to get a new cas if there is no corrosion on the harness? Can my old/current one be adjusted?

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Z-owned
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The cas isn't a real common part to fail on the Z so well a bad one would prevent starting i would be hesitant to rule that way so quickly. To answer your question though yes it can be adjusted and should be set to 15 degrees btc though you would need to have the car warmed up for this lol. There are three screws around it you loosen to adjust it, generally if everything is good the screws should be around the middle of the adjustment range they have.

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entrapm3nt
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Z-owned wrote:The cas isn't a real common part to fail on the Z so well a bad one would prevent starting i would be hesitant to rule that way so quickly. To answer your question though yes it can be adjusted and should be set to 15 degrees btc though you would need to have the car warmed up for this lol. There are three screws around it you loosen to adjust it, generally if everything is good the screws should be around the middle of the adjustment range they have.
Is there any way to adjust it while the car is off to get it running?

So the CAS can prevent the car from starting but it has to be running to adjust it? :(

I got ecu code 11 but im guessing there is more wrong with it then

Maybe the PTU? at the moment its out of gas. have not tried to start it.

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Ace2cool
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No way to adjust it without the car running. You can get a rough estimate by rotating the crank by hand with a timing light and seeing where the flash lands you, but if it was running before, just set it back to where it was. That's why I always take a scribe and etch a mark every time I touch my CAS.

If it's throwing code 11 and the CAS is good, the harness may be shot. Try wiggling the harness while someone else cranks the car over. Have you gone through and checked for corrosion on the CAS and PTU?

BlackWidowZ
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You should put some gas in it. if its not turning over, it could be dead battery and or then the starter solenoid. I would hook a battery charger up to it let it charge. pour some gas in the tank start from there. If you turn the key and the gas pump doesn't turn on than your pump is bad. If it just doesn't turn over at all with full charge I would check the starter solenoid. If you are getting gas and its tuning over, but not starting check to make sure its getting spark. If its got gas, spark and tuning over it should try to start even if it wont run. If its doing that then wont run check to make sure you got compression.

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entrapm3nt
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Ace2cool wrote:No way to adjust it without the car running. You can get a rough estimate by rotating the crank by hand with a timing light and seeing where the flash lands you, but if it was running before, just set it back to where it was. That's why I always take a scribe and etch a mark every time I touch my CAS.

If it's throwing code 11 and the CAS is good, the harness may be shot. Try wiggling the harness while someone else cranks the car over. Have you gone through and checked for corrosion on the CAS and PTU?
I will try wiggling the harness while starting it, thanks. There is no corrosion on the harness cas or ptu.

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entrapm3nt
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BlackWidowZ wrote:You should put some gas in it. if its not turning over, it could be dead battery and or then the starter solenoid. I would hook a battery charger up to it let it charge. pour some gas in the tank start from there. If you turn the key and the gas pump doesn't turn on than your pump is bad. If it just doesn't turn over at all with full charge I would check the starter solenoid. If you are getting gas and its tuning over, but not starting check to make sure its getting spark. If its got gas, spark and tuning over it should try to start even if it wont run. If its doing that then wont run check to make sure you got compression.
I have nothing to check spark with or compression :( looks like ill have to tow it. Also just wondering.. Why do you think its the starter solenoid? Is that a common no start issue with the Z32?

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bartZ32tt
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To check spark, just keep a COP plugged in with the spark plug also plugged in but grounded to the plenum and turn the CAS. it should spark if all is well. The CAS has been known to fail and usually there are no warning signs; it is just an abrupt failure. The key is to eliminate all other possibilities before spending money - it'll save you lots of money in the long run.

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entrapm3nt
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bartZ32tt wrote:To check spark, just keep a COP plugged in with the spark plug also plugged in but grounded to the plenum and turn the CAS. it should spark if all is well. The CAS has been known to fail and usually there are no warning signs; it is just an abrupt failure. The key is to eliminate all other possibilities before spending money - it'll save you lots of money in the long run.
Im sure I sound like a noob idiot(new to z32s) but what is a cop? and what do u use to ground it? What do you mean by turn the cas? (start the car or turn by hand?) Also i don't feel comfortable doing the screw driver method. Thanks for your info bart :crazy:

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bartZ32tt
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COP=coil over plug AKA coil pack. To ground it, simply touch the spark plug to the plenum.

To turn CAS by hand, remove the 3 screws and remove CAS. Be sure to mark their orientation first so you can replace it with the same timing as before. Then keep it plugged in and turn the key on. When you rotate the CAS by hand, you'll hear the injectors pulsing in order and the spark plug on plenum should go off when it's that cylinder's turn to fire.

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entrapm3nt
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bartZ32tt wrote:COP=coil over plug AKA coil pack. To ground it, simply touch the spark plug to the plenum.

To turn CAS by hand, remove the 3 screws and remove CAS. Be sure to mark their orientation first so you can replace it with the same timing as before. Then keep it plugged in and turn the key on. When you rotate the CAS by hand, you'll hear the injectors pulsing in order and the spark plug on plenum should go off when it's that cylinder's turn to fire.
Interesting.. Thanks bro. Your the man! :bigthumb:

to mark the CAS screws should i just use a marker? Does not seem very accurate. Is there anyway i could guess and try to adjust it this way? hit or miss...

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Ace2cool
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Not without a timing light and the engine running. I used a scribe and scratched a small mark in it.

ZAddict32
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Quick question... I'm having the same issue, was wondering if the TT CAS is the same as the NA one? I know a lot of the parts are interchangeable and happen to have an NA lying around and quite possibly a CAS. Thanks!

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t.mcginley.jr
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ZAddict32 wrote:Quick question... I'm having the same issue, was wondering if the TT CAS is the same as the NA one? I know a lot of the parts are interchangeable and happen to have an NA lying around and quite possibly a CAS. Thanks!
Yes the NA and TT CAS are the same, as are the PTU's and coil packs :dblthumb:

ZAddict32
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Thanks Mcinley (sp?)!! If you have time to take a look I just posted a thread in technical about my starting issues I am racking my brain trying to figure this thing out.


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