ok heres the problem last night i drove my car around and everything was fine when i dropped my gf off last night the car wouldnt start. i wasnt too mad i got it started by push starting it. its not the battery, i replaced the starter this morning and it did the same thing, i turn the key and nothing. no clicking nothing. the thing thats puzzling me is that when i push start it, its fine, it runs and drives perfectly ok but the car wont start??????? is it some sort of relay, fuse, anything like that??? anyone had this problem before? thanx in advance for the help
:help
by the way its a 91 240sx 5spd
car wont start!!!
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Emperor240
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 12:34 pm
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Emperor240
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 12:34 pm
what you might want to do is disconnect the switch and jump the two wires with a wire (or a paper clip soemthing conductive) and put the car in neutral with the parking brake on and try starting it, if it starts you know its the switch check that. if it doesnt also check the ground connection on the wire (the front of left fender) hope this helps i wont get my 240 back till 3 weeks tell me how it goes
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Don Keyballs
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:44 pm
My 93 Pathfinder was having a problem not starting. It was intermittent, and usually would start after turning the key over and over. Well, it finally bought the farm in front of my house. I put a voltmeter on the battery and saw that when I turned the key, there was not a battery voltage drop, and no amp draw. I checked power to the start relay (right side of engine bay, mounted on fender) and saw that there was 12 volts going to the coil side of the relay, when the key was turned. I pulled the relay out, and hooked jumpers from the battery to the coil side, with the meter hooked to the switch side. You could hear the relay click when the jumpers were touched to the relay contacts. (The schematic of the relay is printed on the side of the relay) Resistance readings on the switch side were fluctuating from 2 to 60 ohms. I re-installed the relay and checked power to the starter. When the key was turned, I was only getting .62 volts to the starter. What is nice is that the relay has 2 sockets. One is for the coil side, and one for the switch side. I left the coil side hooked up, and took a jumper wire and jumped the switch side socket. When I tried starting, it worked. What it looks like is that the switch, inside the relay had enough resistance in the contacts to drop the starting voltage from 12 volts to .62, which is far from enough to turn the starter. Replaced the relay ($15 from NAPA) and everything worked fine. The moral of the story: Carry some spare wires to use as jumpers in your tool kit. I would recommend having a 12, 16, and 18 or 20-gauge wire, and a pair of automotive strippers. A voltmeter, or multi meter is also a good thing to have. I happen to use one for work (aviation). You can get a pretty good digital meter for a reasonable price from Sears or most auto parts stores. I have a Fluke 87, which is overkill for most circuits found in cars.
I also had a problem with the engine quitting when turning a corner or hitting a bump.. I pulled apart the fuseable links that are connected to the battery and found that they were pretty corroded. I got a nail file and contct cleaner after them and put them back together. That was 6 months ago and I have not seen another problem.
I also had a problem with the engine quitting when turning a corner or hitting a bump.. I pulled apart the fuseable links that are connected to the battery and found that they were pretty corroded. I got a nail file and contct cleaner after them and put them back together. That was 6 months ago and I have not seen another problem.