Car wont start after crossed jump. Searched. Alot. Help.

[180crafter]

Long story: Used to live with this girl and we got into a fight. My battery was dead, so I went to jump it. In the hurry to get it started so that I could leave that bia, I crossed the jump wires. I know... Im an idiot.

Symptoms: Limited electronic usage. I have lights, my alarm, and windows, but thats about it. No radio, no fuel pump. Nothing else.

Well.... Ive replaced all of the fusible links under the hood and all the fuses inside. But....

Still nothing. No radio, No Fuel pump. Ive got the fans for the air conditioner, and the lights working. But thats it. I checked all of the underhood grounds and what not, and it all seems just fine.

I would like some more suggestions if anyone has any. Thank you in advance.

[tkrolo01]

I had a similar problem a year or so ago. It took me quite a while to find it. There is an alternator link in the fusebox beside the battery. It would start off another vehicle but would die as soon as it was disconnected. If I remember right, lots of the accessories worked. Bad thing is that it is a factory part, something like 20-30 bucks for the link.

Hope this helps

[180crafter]

I had a similar problem a year or so ago. It took me quite a while to find it. There is an alternator link in the fusebox beside the battery. It would start off another vehicle but would die as soon as it was disconnected. If I remember right, lots of the accessories worked. Bad thing is that it is a factory part, something like 20-30 bucks for the link.

Hope this helps

I know that this is alot to ask for... but do you have a pic? i need to know what to change.

[NISTECH]

look down at your battery , there is a small black box next to it, on it or in it it should say alt.

[180crafter]

if your talking about hte black box full of fusible links and fuses, ive already replaced all of those. Still nothing.

[180crafter]

Bump for me needing a working vehicle.

[tkrolo01]

I would check again.

I did the EXACT same thing on my 93 and it took me days to find the right fusible link. I must have looked over it a hundred times. I had the same symptoms and everything. Like I said it is a factory part so the only place you will find it is a dealer or junk yard.

If that isn't it, I don't know what to tell you.

Good Luck.

[Bronze MFP]

if its not that link, you migh have fried your ECU

[180crafter]

Dude... I have 3 good ecu's that I have tested on another redtop and they work mint.....

Damn my drunken stupidity!

[initial_d_s14]

you might need to replace you alt. you may have fried that

[NISTECH]

Rick, If you had power to everything but one item I would suggest you possibly blew the controller out. But since so many circuits are dead you have a blown fuse link somewhere that feeds the fuse boxs.

[180crafter]

you might need to replace you alt. you may have fried that

Is that a possibility? I was under the impression that the alternator does nothing during start up. can someone chime in to confirm or deny?

[NISTECH]

The altenator can be sitting on the bench in the garage and the car will start and run till the battery goes dead.

[180crafter]

The altenator can be sitting on the bench in the garage and the car will start and run till the battery goes dead.

thats what I thought.

This really sucks.

Do you know which wires are the power and ground for the fuel pump at the connector? I want to test the pump and see if its dead.

[NISTECH]

I dont have a 90 service manual. the oldest I have is a 93 which is for a different engine configuration. It would probably be best to start by listing every single component that doesnt work. Test every switch ,dial and button in the car and list all of the failing ones. With a service manual it could be traced to the exact failure without even looking at anything on the car in a tracing effort. You need to figure out what each of the items not working is sharing, at what point in the electrical system do they all come together.

[180crafter]

I dont have a 90 service manual. the oldest I have is a 93 which is for a different engine configuration. It would probably be best to start by listing every single component that doesnt work. Test every switch ,dial and button in the car and list all of the failing ones. With a service manual it could be traced to the exact failure without even looking at anything on the car in a tracing effort. You need to figure out what each of the items not working is sharing, at what point in the electrical system do they all come together.

Damn... Im in the same boat. i did have it on an old computer, but some psycho ex wont give me back my old towers. Bish.

Well.... Everything seems to work except for the Radio and the fuel pump. Everything else, air cond fan, lghts signals, interrior lights, everything works great.

Um... Help? I just took the Alternator off to test it. Another suggestion from someone else. Hey, Im trying anything.

[NISTECH]

your wipers work? your horn work? the cigerette lighter work? the rear defroster work? the heat blower motor work? the power door locks and windows work?[if applicable] the ebrake light work? all instrument gauges light up when key turned to on?

[180crafter]

your wipers work? your horn work? the cigerette lighter work? the rear defroster work? the heat blower motor work? the power door locks and windows work?[if applicable] the ebrake light work? all instrument gauges light up when key turned to on?

All those things work... yep!

I removed the alternator yesterday, and noticed some corosion on the positive lead. I took it to Discount Auto Parts around the corner, and they did a test and said it was dead. Im not sure if he did the test right though (I had to show him what were the positive and negative leads) So im going to get it tested at another plance and also see if I can get it rebuilt if it needs it. I dont know if this would be the cuase.... but hey, its worth a try.

[NISTECH]

most definitly fix the obvious first. And if you had to show him ,chances are he didnt even know what he was looking at when he tested it..lol

As far as the rebuid, it will probably be cheaper just to replace it as the labor alone to do it is more then the alt price.

I dont know if you covered this or not but does your car at least crank when you try to start it?

[180crafter]

most definitly fix the obvious first. And if you had to show him ,chances are he didnt even know what he was looking at when he tested it..lol

As far as the rebuid, it will probably be cheaper just to replace it as the labor alone to do it is more then the alt price.

I dont know if you covered this or not but does your car at least crank when you try to start it?

Fix the obvious? Yes.... Im going to do that ASAP. Those kids they hire are pretty.....dead.

About the rebuild? Supposedly its the voltage regulator. Would it really be costly to replace the innards and maybe upgrade at the same time? Replace? with what? Another SR20 alternator? Is there a USDM alternative? I'll be searching at the same time.

And it does crank, but only because I hard wired it directly. It will always crank whenthe ignition is turned on. It was a band-aid that has worked well so far. I pan on getting it fixed when I have the whole harness redone.

I really appreciate your help.

[NISTECH]

well I cant find anywhere in this thread where you said you had a halfbreed. I assumed this was a stock 240.That changes things as I know nothing about that swap or what parts are changed from factory to accomplish it. I dont know if the altenator is the same as usdm one or not or even if the fuse I was sending you to look at is in the same location. I took a picture of a 1990 240's fuse links today to post to help you but i think it would be pointless now if had to locate it somewhere else or if it is even the same fuse box.

[180crafter]

well I cant find anywhere in this thread where you said you had a halfbreed. I assumed this was a stock 240.That changes things as I know nothing about that swap or what parts are changed from factory to accomplish it. I dont know if the altenator is the same as usdm one or not or even if the fuse I was sending you to look at is in the same location. I took a picture of a 1990 240's fuse links today to post to help you but i think it would be pointless now if had to locate it somewhere else or if it is even the same fuse box.

Damn... Sorry. I didnt even notice. Everyone one in Gen chat knows, and most people that have been around know also... so I just forgot to mention it. My bad!

Yeah, Ive got an SR20 with Power FC and all that good stuff, but the main stuff is still the same. All the fuse boxes are USDM, all the Internal wireing, and most of the engine harness, including the Alternator/transmission portion. Th eonly thing thats really different is the Injector leads, and the fact that its a Multipoint. Sorry again.

oh and I have a pic too:



All the fusible links are changed, adn even some of the Relays that looked odd.

Oh and dont loose hope on helping me. You have been valiable so far! An its really not that different when you compare the both. Maybe I can teach you something!

[NISTECH]

ok I took a look at the 90 service manual today and studied the wiring diagram. It appears when you turn the key on the ecm grounds the Fuel pump relay to operate it. So if you have a dvom you can check for voltage at 2 terminals of the relay. see if there is power to terminals 1 and 3, The numbers are inside the terminal area of the rely. dont go by the stuff on top of the relay. Match the numbers nxt to the terminals inside to where they plu into the relay socket. If you have power on both those lines with the key on you need to jump terminals 3 and 5. DO NOT jump power to terminal 2 if you do you will fry your ECM. after you jump those 2 wires try to start your car. if it starts your ecm is toast. IF you dont have power at 1 and 3 you got a problem with power supply from the fuel pump fuse. Use your volt meter to test for power on both sides of all your fuses. you can probe the backs of them with your meter.

[180crafter]

ok I took a look at the 90 service manual today and studied the wiring diagram. It appears when you turn the key on the ecm grounds the Fuel pump relay to operate it. So if you have a dvom you can check for voltage at 2 terminals of the relay. see if there is power to terminals 1 and 3, The numbers are inside the terminal area of the rely. dont go by the stuff on top of the relay. Match the numbers nxt to the terminals inside to where they plu into the relay socket. If you have power on both those lines with the key on you need to jump terminals 3 and 5. DO NOT jump power to terminal 2 if you do you will fry your ECM. after you jump those 2 wires try to start your car. if it starts your ecm is toast. IF you dont have power at 1 and 3 you got a problem with power supply from the fuel pump fuse. Use your volt meter to test for power on both sides of all your fuses. you can probe the backs of them with your meter.

Doesnt get any effin clearer than that!

Your the best... now if only I can find some time to do that.

Oh... and can you point out which one is the fuel pump relay? I never had the little coer that goes on top.

[NISTECH]

I will have to look again today. I dont have the location memorized.

[NISTECH]

its the green one by the gray one.

[180crafter]

its the green one by the gray one.

k, thanks. Im going to check it on morow, and will post my findings ASAP. Thanks again.

BTW, where are you? I owe you a beer.

[NISTECH]

northern california

[180crafter]

Ok ok... Update...

I put in the new alternator.... and nothing. Step 2.

I checked for power with a volt meter, and found:

1=12.472=03=0.01 (wtf?)5=12.47

I proceded to jump 3 and five, and I do have Power to the pump. But I stil have no radio.

What do you think?

BTW, I have another relay lying around and checked that one also, and its still didnt correct the problem.

Im going to swith ECU's and try something else.....

[180crafter]

Good news!

Swithed ECU's (Im on my third....) and the Fuel pump started working corectly.

The radio is no good, but after checking the fuse on the back of it... it was found to be no good. I replaced it and I have limited functionality on th radio. Im pretty dure I fried the inside... Oh well.

I cant start the car yet though. I have to reflash the ECU to use the newer injectors and what not.

Thanks for your help! Im sure that I will soon be starting this beah beah.