car won't start

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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420_240
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:21 pm

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After all of this trouble with my PowerFC, my clutch, and various other sh1t storms.... my car won't start!!!

The battery was too weak to power the starter so i jumped it from another car..... now all it does is crank, crank, crank... but no turn over....

When i turn the key to start it... it'll crank, and the handcommander flickers with each crank... i also hear the ECCS relay clicking with each crank.

I'm wondering if this would have anything to do with the original wires that ran to pins 1 & 3 on my eccs relay...

the originals were a switched power source.... i clipped both of them from pins 1&3... and wired a constant directly from the battery.... the original wires aren't running to anything now

I'm open for ANY suggestions


Yellow4g63
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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420_240 wrote:After all of this trouble with my PowerFC, my clutch, and various other sh1t storms.... my car won't start!!!

The battery was too weak to power the starter so i jumped it from another car..... now all it does is crank, crank, crank... but no turn over....

When i turn the key to start it... it'll crank, and the handcommander flickers with each crank... i also hear the ECCS relay clicking with each crank.

I'm wondering if this would have anything to do with the original wires that ran to pins 1 & 3 on my eccs relay...

the originals were a switched power source.... i clipped both of them from pins 1&3... and wired a constant directly from the battery.... the original wires aren't running to anything now

I'm open for ANY suggestions
Is the battery in the trunk? if so might need a better ground?

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420_240
Posts: 416
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:21 pm

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nope... battery is in it's original location.... although the negative terminal cable is somewhat loose... Please keep any kind of suggestions coming... i need to get this running asap

onefastrb26
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:15 pm
Car: RB26dett
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Who did the wiring? I have seen the same problem on a RB26...
420_240 wrote:After all of this trouble with my PowerFC, my clutch, and various other sh1t storms.... my car won't start!!!

The battery was too weak to power the starter so i jumped it from another car..... now all it does is crank, crank, crank... but no turn over....

When i turn the key to start it... it'll crank, and the handcommander flickers with each crank... i also hear the ECCS relay clicking with each crank.

I'm wondering if this would have anything to do with the original wires that ran to pins 1 & 3 on my eccs relay...

the originals were a switched power source.... i clipped both of them from pins 1&3... and wired a constant directly from the battery.... the original wires aren't running to anything now

I'm open for ANY suggestions

Slo_240sx
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:43 pm
Car: Mean Green LS1 S13. Caged and Backhalfed.

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Your Battery must maintain a voltage reading of 9.6 volts and must not drop below. 9.6 is just enough to run the ignition while you crank. I think you have a bad connection to be totally honest. Take off the terminals, charge battery, clean terminals and retry cranking. Take off the terminals on the other ends also IE. the block and fuse box and cleans all connections and tighten your one terminal up. Throw a volt meter on the battery and see what voltage is. 14.4 is normal charging but usually on foreign cars its around 13.6, 12.6 is a fully charged battery, and voltage should not drop below 9.6 while cranking. Start there it will determine between Starting and charging and powertrain management. -Alex

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420_240
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:21 pm

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I cleaned my terminals and cables up... the battery is charged and still it will only crank.

It's acting like it's either not getting spark or fuel.... fuel pressure says 60psi.... so i'm pretty sure it's getting fuel

I pulled the coil and plug from the cylinder closest to the front bumper (cylndr 1?)

Had someone try to start the car and i'm not seeing any kind of spark what so ever.... i can feel air and smell gas coming from the cylinder...

Would any of these pins have anything to do with spark?? 1&3 on the eccs relay, 58, 49, 59, 109, 45 on efi harness?

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420_240
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:21 pm

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Ok guys I'm trying to trace this problem down and i'm getting closer little by little.... I was informed by Mack that the middle pin on the coils should have a +12v when key is ON.... i'm not getting anything from the middle pin with the key on... looking at the wiring diagram... it looks like the center pins go back to pin 1 on the IGN. relay... so where do i start now??

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420_240
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well i retested my coil packs and found that it's not the "center" pins that have +12v .... i'm getting +12 at the white wire on the coils which is what i found on the diagram... here's some pictures....

Here's one i pulled to try and see if i had any spark.... i tested the white wire that is circled in red.... i get +11.6Here's another picture of a different coil pack... tested the white wire cirlced in red and i get +11.6the coilpack harness joins together with this plug in the back by the firewall... i tested all the wires on it (total of 8) and only got a reading from this one cirlced in red... again it was +11.6

So does this mean... if i'm getting a +12v switched (key is on) at the coil packs... and the plugs aren't sparking.... that i've got a bad ground somewhere??????

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420_240
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 12:21 pm

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I need some help with a little deductive thinking....

When i try to start my car... and it cranks... the relays begin clicking and the PFC resets with each click so it never stays booted... then when i stop turning the key to start... the relays stop clicking... the PFC boots up......

I had a test light plugged into the eccs relay while i was trying to start it.... the light stayed on with both the w/b wires (constant +12v)... I put it in the b/w wire and by that time my battery was getting weak and the car wouldn't crank anymore.... when i'd turn the key to start it.... the relays would click... car ran out of juice so it wouldn't crank... and the test light would go off.... then i'd return the key to the "on" position and the test light would come back on.... PFC boots up

What is this telling me?... why would my relays be clicking when i'm trying to start the car?.... I think this is what's preventing it from starting.... if the PFC isn't fully booted when it's trying to start.... then it's not going to ground anything so my plugs won't spark, injectors wont fire, so on and so forth.... SOMEONE TELL ME IF I'M ON THE RIGHT TRACK


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