First of all I just changed my entire fuel management system. I went from SAFC/370's to enthalpy ECU and 550's. I also changed my distributor and wired in some electric fans.
The car cranks a few times but won't turn over. Then it just shuts down. You can't crank it indefinately.
It's not the battery it's reading at 10.5v. The starter was working prior to making these changes. Also when I put in the distributor I made sure it was lined up with the number one ignition cable as indicated at kat.org.
Any ideas or what I should try?
Car won't start!!! Need answers/suggestions.
ok well there are a number of things this could be but most likely (like probably 99.999%sure) it is related to the recent changes to your fuel setup.first off try this if the car hasn't been started for a few days/weeks/whatever. make sure you have a decent battery to use (ie one that will supply a good amount of amps to turn the engine fast enough). then allow the fuel to prime itself. this is something i see people do wrong all the time... they just put the key in and try to start it immediately, nd never let the fuel lines get pressurized. if you don't know how to prime the fuel lines this is how: turn the key into the run position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops pumping. then try to start the car.
if that doesn't work, and it might not, then keep this in mind: in order to run an engine needs 3 things. air, fuel, and spark. since you have messed with your fuel system and your distributor you may have to check 2 of these three things to make sure they are working. spark is easy to check. all you have to do is pull one of the plugs out and leave it attached to the plug wire. ground the plug out and then crank the engine to see if the spark plug is actually sparking. if that checks out then move on to making sure that when you hooked up the distributor that you hooked it up properly, and the plugs are sparking at the correct time. If all this stuff with the ignition checks out okay then it's time to check the fuel system. this would include checking to make sure your pump is pumping (which would be a good candidate if you replaced the pump, but if you didn't chances are that this is not the problem), and about the enthalpy ecu and everytyhing well i don't know. i have never used an enthalpy ecu so someone else will have to help you with that. if you want to try starting it on starter fluid you could do that, just to see if it can maybe take over once you get it started, but that's up to you... when i installed my turbo kit the car sat without being started for a long time because i had school and all kinds of stuff to do all the time so we only got to work on it on the weekends... so it took me about 3 days to get the car started when i was finally done... this may also be the case with your car, but i don't know how long it's been sitting, or what the specifics of everything you did are... provide more details if you can and maybe i can help more, but i'm sure you'll get feedback from many other people.
also give some specifics of what the car does when you try to start it... does it try to start (like are any of the cylinders firing) ? does it do nothing? etc.good luck
if that doesn't work, and it might not, then keep this in mind: in order to run an engine needs 3 things. air, fuel, and spark. since you have messed with your fuel system and your distributor you may have to check 2 of these three things to make sure they are working. spark is easy to check. all you have to do is pull one of the plugs out and leave it attached to the plug wire. ground the plug out and then crank the engine to see if the spark plug is actually sparking. if that checks out then move on to making sure that when you hooked up the distributor that you hooked it up properly, and the plugs are sparking at the correct time. If all this stuff with the ignition checks out okay then it's time to check the fuel system. this would include checking to make sure your pump is pumping (which would be a good candidate if you replaced the pump, but if you didn't chances are that this is not the problem), and about the enthalpy ecu and everytyhing well i don't know. i have never used an enthalpy ecu so someone else will have to help you with that. if you want to try starting it on starter fluid you could do that, just to see if it can maybe take over once you get it started, but that's up to you... when i installed my turbo kit the car sat without being started for a long time because i had school and all kinds of stuff to do all the time so we only got to work on it on the weekends... so it took me about 3 days to get the car started when i was finally done... this may also be the case with your car, but i don't know how long it's been sitting, or what the specifics of everything you did are... provide more details if you can and maybe i can help more, but i'm sure you'll get feedback from many other people.
also give some specifics of what the car does when you try to start it... does it try to start (like are any of the cylinders firing) ? does it do nothing? etc.good luck
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ILikeMy240sx
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Structure240sx
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I feel like a total idiot. Not enough juice in the battery, I jumped it and it turned right over. I don't know why I'm always looking for an exotic solution.
Anyways, new problems have arisen.
#1. I have a scan tool that's reading the z32 MAF voltage as 5.11v prior to starting and during idle.
#1a As a result the engine is running exremely rich
#2 The Scan tool is indicating ignition as 5 degrees prior to start up and then 35 degrees at idle. Is this normal or a result of the MAF/rich condition?
Thanks for the help getting it started.
Anyways, new problems have arisen.
#1. I have a scan tool that's reading the z32 MAF voltage as 5.11v prior to starting and during idle.
#1a As a result the engine is running exremely rich
#2 The Scan tool is indicating ignition as 5 degrees prior to start up and then 35 degrees at idle. Is this normal or a result of the MAF/rich condition?
Thanks for the help getting it started.