Post by
180sx »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/180sx-u7150.html
Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:56 am
FUNNY... the other day i took apart my plumbing trying to go blow-through with n60. Did not think ahead n60 maf is 3" in diameter and my cold pipe is 2.75" and i have no 3"to 2.75" reducers on hand. So i just put it all back together...Just how it was with the old maf.But i also changed my spark plugs to autolite copper core and re-gapped em to .40(had .35 on 6e's COPPER'S before).
Car does exactly as yours now.But I did have it running like a clock before so wtf right?
I went and pressure tested the plumbing..old egr blockoff was hissing..ok,fixed it. Still here and there drop down to 300 at idle and stall coming off boost or high rpm. Irratic idle continues, from 700-1500rpm. And when just started cold/warm it goes up to 1500rpm for like 10sec and drops down to 0rpm and shuts off if i don't step on gas. And i mean doesn't even stumblle 1 bit, just face down to 0rpm and shuts off.I have idler valve wide open to the max. And my idle reading at 900rpnm is -14.Before at 800 rpm i had -17 or so. Makes me think idler valve is the bastard here.Other possibilitie so far: bad plug/gap combo.(oem is .44 now at .40) handles boost just fine so i assume gap wouldn't affect idle that much if i don't blow out under boost (14psi).
Coming down to just making a decent intake mani AND get rid of nissan valves all together. Meanwhile i am just going to adjust the idler screw all the way and keep throtle plate 10% open .
also u can move up tpc to .52 or so.
Modified by 180sx at 2:06 AM 7/24/2007