Car won't fire, don't tell me it's the obvious thing...

[shawya]

So I'm trying to start my car without IC piping because I need to have some made for the "custom" rigged IC mounting. I know that having nothing between the turbo and TB is probably the reason my car won't fire up, I'm trying to do it so I can drive the thing to the shop. Shouldn't it be able to start up and run, even like cr@p, with the TB to atmosphere? Or is it just too rich? Really don't want to spend $70-$80 to have it towed to the shop.

[float_6969]

unplug the MAFS.....

[fanta]

Do not go anywhere without a filter/screen.

[NeedCAforS13]

wait you're trying to drive it to the shop without the intercooler and piping connected... DOOOOD just get it towed there:( I wouldn't risk it. I don't know exactly what could go wrong, but its not gonna rev past 2k with that maf unplugged

Sean

[fanta]

It will go into limp mode, semi-driveable.

Be careful! Use a filter!

[float_6969]

Sorry, I didn't mention the filter. I kinda thought it was a gimmie.

[gore]

he said his car won't fire, probably clogged injectors.

[fanta]

Sorry, I didn't mention the filter. I kinda thought it was a gimmie.

I just had to throw it in :oface

[nab911]

Yeah, i tried this and i thought it wouldnt fire without piping but odds are, if you check for spark and it will spark... pull dem jectors.

[240 Trainee]

It won't run without the MAF. I did it before I go the piping for my car. It runs off the temp sensor just fine, but if the car senses any throttle engalement at all, it will shut off. In other words, you can only idle without the MAF and piping.

[nab911]

So check for spark

[shawya]

Yeah, I definitely have the air filter on. I tried unplugging the MAF, but it still didn't start up. I'm gonna check for spark and then try turning the ignition to ON and taking off the CAS and turning it to listen for the injectors and then I'll see if anything comes of that. I forgot to mention that when I try and start it makes a sound kinda like someone popping a paper bag in sync with the engine, though that's probably just the fact that I only have the turbo elbow on right now.

[shawya]

So I decide to check the plugs: 1 is covered in oil and carbon, while 2, 3, and 4 look pristine, as they should in an engine that hasn't been run. Confirmed that only cylinder 1 does this, and it only takes a couple cranks to make a plug look 20000 miles old. I then swap coils to see if the coil is firing and burning the stuff off, coils are fine. So I just did a compression test on the cold engine (couldn't be hot if I can't get it to start) with the results below:1st test: 125 124 130 1152nd test (added a small amount of oil to each cylinder): 124 134 140 1253rd test (didn't add any more oil): 129 135 137 124Now, I know these numbers are low, but on a cold engine they shouldn't be much higher anyways, should they? With these numbers, I'm still not totally convinced that I have either bad rings or valves as I had been suspecting. I'm just trying to stay optimistic that this thing'll fire right up with the IC hooked up. Any thoughts on what these numbers might suggest? Help is appreciated.

[Def]

Probably not going to be able to get it to start and driveable.

I'd say get a friend to strap a tow-rope to the thing and do the "ghetto-tow" with the thing to the shop(assuming it isn't more than a few miles).

Honestly though, what's $60 compared to the cost of the swap or possibly messing up your engine. I'd think it would be very easy to wash the bore with fuel if you ran without a MAF and the turbo even remotely started to boost.

[USDM_OneVia]

Jebus!!! I can't believe I just read that.....

Dee, someone is going to be seeing you for a new motor soon.

I can't believe you spent all that money on getting your motor and whatnot and won't get it towed to a shop to get the IC piping made up..... WOW

as my Mama used to say..... "Don't come cryin' when it's broke..."

Joe

[shawya]

Oh, I'm definitely getting the thing towed. However, I'm trying to find out if I have bigger problems on my hands or not, 'cause since my buddy's Honda turbo setup (I know, I know, not the same engine, but same idea) could fire up fine without the IC hooked up, it struck me as troubling that mine wouldn't even run.

[Xero]

all ya can do is check for fuel and spark, spark is there, now check fuel, you know it's gettin air. Are there any codes on your ECU? If there are, look into those too.

[float_6969]

Honda's use MAP sensing, so yes, it would be able to start without the piping. Nissan's use MAF sensing, and won't start without the piping hooked up. I've had my piping blow off and I had to limp it home. All I did was unplug the MAFS, start it up and limp it home. Granted it barely runs, but it got me home.

[Fla S13]

didnt boost boy just have a post regarding rigging sh*t up?

[NeedCAforS13]

yep. apparently people don't read, or just don't care:( whats $70 or even $100 on the overall project? if you can't afford to spend another $100, you shouldn't be driving a swapped car IMO!

Sean

[shawya]

Well excuse me for asking a question. For those that did add something constructive, thanks. Unfortunately, I freely admit I don't know every single thing about this engine, so I thought I'd humbly look for some help based on my past experiences, not because of money. Maybe I'm just not cool enough...

[NeedCAforS13]

yep thats it. you're not cool enough :rolleyes way to be a d!ck bro... no one was making fun of you, or being mean, we were just saying you can't be a cheap a$$ and expect everything to work! why risk your motor and all you've invested in that to try and limp it to the shop if you don't have to?

Sean

[nab911]

Well heres your advice... first try getting intercooler piping to hook up