Car Trouble... S13

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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I have a ka24e. I did a 5spd swap and it's been running alright for over 1000 miles.

1.) I didnt grease my throw out bearing enough (could that cause rattling?) When I push in my clutch the noise goes away. Also when I downshift at higher speeds that rattling / grinding noise is worse.

2.) The clutch pedal is a pain. I've tried adjusting it multiple times, as well as bleeding it. I don't have that black box thing on the trans I have an spl braided clutch line & oem hardline.

3.) Fluid is clutch master cylinder gets murky after only a few hundred miles or less. It's not nice and clean looking like the brake mc.

4.) Clutch pedal gets spongy, never had it stiff like i'd like it. Can tell it definately grabs fine though as long as the pedal is working right. It's like i have an inch of play at the very beginning and it squeeks (it's just the spring) When I push it in where the play is, its like it just moves to get off a bolt in the back and i only start feeling pressure about 1/3 of the way down.

5.) My exhaust backfires all the time, more commonly when i let off the gas at higher speeds and when i'm just starting to go. (Replace fuel filter? I did that 4k ago)

6.) My motor has something wrong with it's timing or maybe vacuum leaks? I've plugged all visible spots also i seafoamed it about 4k ago and there were no leaks showing white smoke. We checked the timing and when the distributor is a little less than advanced it's at the correct specs but when advanced or anywhere else it runs like garbage.

7.) Sometimes my injectors wont run therefore it runs like junk, but when I drive for a little while it fixes itself.

8.) My spark plugs burn or get black really quickly. I just put new ones in and 1k later they look burnt.

9.) The blue plug on my IACV wasn't plugged in, in forever and i didn't notice it until the other day. So i plugged it in and my car ran like a cylinder/injector wasn't working then i drove around a while and it fixed itself..

10.) My brakes are terrible all the way around rotors and all, what do you suggest for a daily driver? Also my rear suspension is super bouncy. Blown struts...

I know it's a lot to read but i'm trying to get it to run like a champ and have it be reliable and fun to drive.

1990 ka24E 119xxx original milesI have an aftermarket header, 2.5" exhaust, B&M style short shifter, new exedy street clutch and pressure plate, fidanza light weight flywheel (resurfaced).

thanks


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zenki-S13
Posts: 377
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:02 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx S13
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i had a a couple problems similar the other day

first check all your plug wiredmake sure there all in good condition and on all the wayand clean your injectors

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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when i pull the number 4 plug, the idle doesnt change too much. is that a bad sign? that would mean it's not firing but i'm not sure.. I have brand new pulstar spark plugs. I dont get it.

The most annoying problem is the clutch pedal and the timing issue. I want it fixed

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S13Joe
Posts: 1741
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:50 am
Car: 92 Coupe

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Well, i dont feel like answering all of your questions... but change the T/O bearing.

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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haha okay.. but it's brand new.

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1unar3clipse
Posts: 1543
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:22 pm
Car: 93 240sx HB, 01 Dodge Dakota SLT

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mmaxeyjr wrote:1.) I didnt grease my throw out bearing enough (could that cause rattling?) When I push in my clutch the noise goes away. Also when I downshift at higher speeds that rattling / grinding noise is worse.
The transmission could be in bad shape, you didn't mention much about the condition of the transmission internals before the swap.
mmaxeyjr wrote:2.) The clutch pedal is a pain. I've tried adjusting it multiple times, as well as bleeding it. I don't have that black box thing on the trans I have an spl braided clutch line & oem hardline.
Have you bled it? does the clutch line have any serious kinks in it? Tried adjusting the slave actuation?
mmaxeyjr wrote:3.) Fluid is clutch master cylinder gets murky after only a few hundred miles or less. It's not nice and clean looking like the brake mc.
Flush, refill, bleed and repeat. Works for me.
mmaxeyjr wrote:4.) Clutch pedal gets spongy, never had it stiff like i'd like it. Can tell it definately grabs fine though as long as the pedal is working right. It's like i have an inch of play at the very beginning and it squeeks (it's just the spring) When I push it in where the play is, its like it just moves to get off a bolt in the back and i only start feeling pressure about 1/3 of the way down.
Tighten up all the mounting bolts, grease the spring, play with the actuation on the CMC.
mmaxeyjr wrote:5.) My exhaust backfires all the time, more commonly when i let off the gas at higher speeds and when i'm just starting to go. (Replace fuel filter? I did that 4k ago)
Sounds like the emissions systems have been capped to me.
mmaxeyjr wrote:6.) My motor has something wrong with it's timing or maybe vacuum leaks? I've plugged all visible spots also i seafoamed it about 4k ago and there were no leaks showing white smoke. We checked the timing and when the distributor is a little less than advanced it's at the correct specs but when advanced or anywhere else it runs like garbage.
why would you advance it beyond its factory set timing?
mmaxeyjr wrote:7.) Sometimes my injectors wont run therefore it runs like junk, but when I drive for a little while it fixes itself.
no they are not fixing themselves, eventually the ones that are in bad condition will die.. this is most likely the cause of your motor running like garbage. Buy new injectors or send yours to be cleaned.
mmaxeyjr wrote:8.) My spark plugs burn or get black really quickly. I just put new ones in and 1k later they look burnt.
I wonder why.... check the injectors.
mmaxeyjr wrote:9.) The blue plug on my IACV wasn't plugged in, in forever and i didn't notice it until the other day. So i plugged it in and my car ran like a cylinder/injector wasn't working then i drove around a while and it fixed itself..
I can't even attempt to touch this one. Good luck with that.
mmaxeyjr wrote:10.) My brakes are terrible all the way around rotors and all, what do you suggest for a daily driver? Also my rear suspension is super bouncy. Blown struts...
stock brakes? new shocks/struts? if its a DD just go OEM.

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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bought the trans from someone i knew. its in good shape.

i've bled the pedal multiple times for up to 15-20 mins and it's good for a few days then it gets messed up.

i am only missing 1 mounting bolt on the clutch pedal assembly it's the one that goes straight up toward the top of the car.

i still have my egr, etc..

i didnt advance it, it was changed so it would run. possibly the distro is off by a tooth or something? how can i tell and fix?

the injectors i have in were just flow tested about 1500 miles ago and they're all said to be good.


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1unar3clipse
Posts: 1543
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:22 pm
Car: 93 240sx HB, 01 Dodge Dakota SLT

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mmaxeyjr wrote:bought the trans from someone i knew. its in good shape.
Did you open it up and check? otherwise your guessing and assuming it was well treated. Do you know its mileage?
mmaxeyjr wrote:i've bled the pedal multiple times for up to 15-20 mins and it's good for a few days then it gets messed up.
Check for leaks from the boot on the clutch master on the inside of the car. It sounds to me like the CMC is sucking air in from somewhere screwing up pedal pressure.

Spray soapy water over the clutch lines to help spot leaks.
mmaxeyjr wrote:i am only missing 1 mounting bolt on the clutch pedal assembly it's the one that goes straight up toward the top of the car.
I'd at least secure it, remember that the clutch system is hydraulic and under a good amount of force when you press your foot down on the pedal.
mmaxeyjr wrote:i didnt advance it, it was changed so it would run. possibly the distro is off by a tooth or something? how can i tell and fix?
check the FSM, or use the search function.
mmaxeyjr wrote:the injectors i have in were just flow tested about 1500 miles ago and they're all said to be good.
Then the injectors are good, I'd double check them because the car is an 19 years old at this point. Not to mention the injectors had a slight change from s13 240sx to s14 240sx because of longevity or durability.

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dwclur
Posts: 231
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:51 am
Car: 91 Nissan 240sx Coup

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mmaxeyjr wrote:i am only missing 1 mounting bolt on the clutch pedal assembly it's the one that goes straight up toward the top of the car..
Thats a pretty important bolt

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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can anyone check the size for me? thanks

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1unar3clipse
Posts: 1543
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:22 pm
Car: 93 240sx HB, 01 Dodge Dakota SLT

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mmaxeyjr wrote:can anyone check the size for me? thanks
Pull the one you have left out and take it to either an Ace, True Value, Home Depot, or lowes use they sizing table they have in the hardware section to match the correct thread, pitch, and length.

Or you can search using the flashing red button because I know this has been asked and answered before.


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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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bump.

StandardProspect
Posts: 1181
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 4:41 pm
Car: '93 Nissan 240SX
'98 Infiniti Q45

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I would also try switching out those pulstar plugs for some NGKs

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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StandardProspect wrote:I would also try switching out those pulstar plugs for some NGKs
would that really make that much of a difference? pulstar are supposed to be the best thing out... maybe not for our motors...

cant hurt i suppose..

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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bump!!


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