Well we just finished my ka-t and it took awhile for it to start up, but finally did. However, it couldn't idle worth of chit. There are a couple of things that we are going to check tomorrow. First off I am going to block the egr opening with an aluminum plate and design my intake properly because the cobra mafs is very sensitive.
I was wondering is there anything else I should check that might cause the car to not run right?
Car started up, but still not running right
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Structure240sx
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Structure240sx
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PMan_S13
- Posts: 575
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- Car: Building car -> breaking car -> fixing car -> start over
Describe more in detail how it's not running right. There are a lot of ways to make a motor run bad or not at all. (Trust me I know!)
But things I have seen and had trouble with myself.
-AFM check that it isn't screwed. Disconnect and start. If it runs the same as before you have a bad AFM.
-injectors/ignition disconnect each injector one at a time while running. If it does NOT get worse when you disconnect one, you have a cylinder not firing. Check injectors,plugs,wires,coil.. anything fuel and ignition related.
-vacuum lines/leaks These suck. If you have a boost gauge it should be simple enough to tell if you have one or not. It will show little vacuum and be sluggish. Also make sure the source lines for the idle control stuff is all down stream of the AFM and hooked up well.
-TPS sensor. If you happened to move it somehow, the car will not even TRY to idle. The only time the ecu allows idling is at no throttle. If you're sensor got shifted, the ecu thinks you are giving it gas, when actually the TB is closed = motor won't even try to idle, just dies.
That's all I got without more info. Good luck
But things I have seen and had trouble with myself.
-AFM check that it isn't screwed. Disconnect and start. If it runs the same as before you have a bad AFM.
-injectors/ignition disconnect each injector one at a time while running. If it does NOT get worse when you disconnect one, you have a cylinder not firing. Check injectors,plugs,wires,coil.. anything fuel and ignition related.
-vacuum lines/leaks These suck. If you have a boost gauge it should be simple enough to tell if you have one or not. It will show little vacuum and be sluggish. Also make sure the source lines for the idle control stuff is all down stream of the AFM and hooked up well.
-TPS sensor. If you happened to move it somehow, the car will not even TRY to idle. The only time the ecu allows idling is at no throttle. If you're sensor got shifted, the ecu thinks you are giving it gas, when actually the TB is closed = motor won't even try to idle, just dies.
That's all I got without more info. Good luck
we just checked the car and found out that it was not firing on the 2nd and 4th cylinders. So tomorrow I am going to fix the wiring connections. In fact I am going to take the whole manifold off and fix some half *** stuff I did and make sure nothing is in the oil pan. I will look at the other stuff also tomorrow
PMan_S13 wrote:It would still be firing on all cylinders if it was off a tooth.
It would just run like crap or ping badly, depending on how far off the timing is.
Still a possibility for why it ain't running good, but not the reason the 2nd and 4th cylinder aren't firing.
verrrry UNTRUE!!
My distributor was off a tooth, and it didn't run at all until I had it in there straight.
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PMan_S13
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My statement was subjective of course. But if you only had it off one tooth it still should have been firing. You might have had it timed so far retarded it didn't even seem to be firing at all.
But that's besides the point. If he has the motor running and it is not firing on 2 of the cylinders this is not a problem with the distributor. The ignition timing may still be off, and that may be why it runs bad. But it won't effect only two of the cylinders.
I would check all the ignition stuff; Cap, rotor, wires, plugs. Coil and distributor should be fine since it DOES fire occasionally.
But that's besides the point. If he has the motor running and it is not firing on 2 of the cylinders this is not a problem with the distributor. The ignition timing may still be off, and that may be why it runs bad. But it won't effect only two of the cylinders.
I would check all the ignition stuff; Cap, rotor, wires, plugs. Coil and distributor should be fine since it DOES fire occasionally.
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klattr1
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hey
check out my description of distributor install and a picture i included to help u out in this thread:http://nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71631I helped red240ne get his distributor timing right. His car ran like crap before and now its straight.
I am sure that the distributor works. since we didnt touched it at all.The KA was running pretty good with 20BTDC timing.
The problem was the injector connectors (I think... 99% sure).Fastpace installed them quickly cuz he got impatient and it turns out that the connectors wasnt installed correctly.we'll see after he fix them.But Im bringing my other friends to come help him out this weekend and make sure everything is in working order.I really want to get the car running again.Its hard to see fastpace without a car, he has to go to his classes and work. its almost 2 weeks now.
The problem was the injector connectors (I think... 99% sure).Fastpace installed them quickly cuz he got impatient and it turns out that the connectors wasnt installed correctly.we'll see after he fix them.But Im bringing my other friends to come help him out this weekend and make sure everything is in working order.I really want to get the car running again.Its hard to see fastpace without a car, he has to go to his classes and work. its almost 2 weeks now.
Hello all, well just got finish with the car today. I hate 240sx. I think i am going to sell mine. Just kidding, it feels so good to get the car working properly after many trys and stuff.
But anyways, another friend help me solder some of my injector connectors together and the car was still running on two cylinders. So what we did was install the connectors without the cap and cylinder 2 and 4 fired up. It turns out that the connections weren't all the way in, but now works pretty well. Man the car sounds even better on 4 cylinders. The car idled at around 500 rpm which is alittle off from stock(730rpm). We let it idle for a couple of minutes and held on its on, but once we revved up the engine it quickly died off. There could be a couple of things that can cause that to happen. One thing is that the intercooler piping was not connected tightly and the bov was venting to the atmosphere. Tomorrow I am going to put on everything properly and hopefully it runs even better.
But anyways, another friend help me solder some of my injector connectors together and the car was still running on two cylinders. So what we did was install the connectors without the cap and cylinder 2 and 4 fired up. It turns out that the connections weren't all the way in, but now works pretty well. Man the car sounds even better on 4 cylinders. The car idled at around 500 rpm which is alittle off from stock(730rpm). We let it idle for a couple of minutes and held on its on, but once we revved up the engine it quickly died off. There could be a couple of things that can cause that to happen. One thing is that the intercooler piping was not connected tightly and the bov was venting to the atmosphere. Tomorrow I am going to put on everything properly and hopefully it runs even better.
Well I got some 550cc power enterprise side-feed injectors. They are side feed, but require cutting the old connector and splicing in the new connectors. I don't know if you are using top-feed, but I am sure it is pretty much the same way of hooking them up, infact it is alot easier. For side feed there are two wires that you have to connect to the injector connector, if you start up the car and pull the spark plug and nothing happens then you hooked the connection up wrong and simply switch the wires around.