Car shut down within 5 seconds after I replaced my battery....

[Smartidiot]

So I went to Canadian Tire to replace my car battery last week and haven't driven my car until today. I found that after I started up my car, my rpm would drop to less than 300 and sometimes the car shuts itself down OR ...if the rpm comes back up then everything'd be normal again...

I am kind of worried as this never happened to my car before I replaced my battery... so I brought her back to CT and the mechanic there told me that since they left my car in the shop overnight (without a battery) while waiting to order the correct battery to the store, the ecu was reset and therefore, it needs to re-learn the amount of fuel needed to be sent to the engine and my driving behavoiur.. meaning.. it's not that big of a deal as this symtpon will gradually disappear after i drive her for some times.....

being a relative car noob like myself.. i would like to get a second opinion from experts on this forum.....

is he telling me the truth?? does it make any sense to you guys?? if true, then how long does it usually take for ecu to learn the correct amount of fuel needed to be sent so i don't have to hit my pedal like a mofo every time i am starting my car?? (i am not seeing any red warning lights on my panel at the moment so i suppose there is nothign wrong with my ecu ..)

Thanks in advance for all your help guys!!!

I hope I asked a legit question here. I have tried the search button but i wasn't able to locate a thread that has related issues.

oh... and I drive an 04 G35 Coupe 5AT if that's any useful information....

[Jacko3]

Disconnect and reconnect the battery cables. Make sure the are clean and without dirt. it this does not help, tell the company you purchased the battery from to replace the battery with another one.

[Poyzinous]

It honestly sounds like BS. They may have wired it backwards and fried something. Have a Real expert look at it.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

What battery did they sell you? I wouldn't buy a battery from Canadian Tire, just me.

It seems like there is something going on, I'd take it for a good rip tonight, and report back with your findings. Keep us posted, and good luck.

[Sentientbydesign]

My first thought is that they installed the first battery backwards and fried something, but I also remember installing a Duralast Gold in my I30 and my Idle dropped about 2-300 rpms (weird!). I never figured out why, but it was still at about 500 rpms at idle which was just slightly low.

The ECU Reset, Volume Relearn, and other procedures are all in the Tech Pages above. Look for them under the G35 section. You can do all of those and see if any of them improve your situation.

[Jacko3]

+1

[SteveTheTech]

It honestly sounds like BS. They may have wired it backwards and fried something. Have a Real expert look at it.

+1 I have seen things like erratic MAF voltage after replacement of an altered TB signal voltage. Try having the base idle and self learning reset. There are so many things that would cause this, shotgunning this is a bad idea.

GL

[Smartidiot]

Thanks for all the help guys... I had no choice as my car died at a gas station near Canadian Tire in a -20'C weather.....(and it was 8:30pm, most auto shops are closed).......to be honest with you guys I have no idea what kidda battery they put into my car.. i asked the guy for the best battery available and he told me there is only one type of battery that is comptaibled with my car and it is 675 CCA(no idea what that means....) which is good for winter use....

anyways.. I have sinced performed ECU Reset , Accerlerator pedal release relearn, throttle valve close position relearn, and idle air volume learning as per the instructions on the technical page and it seems to help my situation effectively

the rpm still drops a tad below 500 when the car is alraedy warm, but it's able to pull back up to 700rpm without having the car shut down....

I have also been following a thread on this forum about a member messing up his Throttlebody.....and that thing would cost somewhere around US500.... (which means it'd cost somewhere around CAD$5000 up here in Canada)..so i guess i am not gonan touch that for now..

i willl keep you guys updated.

thanks again everyone

[Sentientbydesign]

675 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). I would think that your old battery was probably still good, just not for your climate.

[telcoman]

Thanks for all the help guys... I had no choice as my car died at a gas station near Canadian Tire in a -20'C weather.....(and it was 8:30pm, most auto shops are closed).......to be honest with you guys I have no idea what kidda battery they put into my car.. i asked the guy for the best battery available and he told me there is only one type of battery that is comptaibled with my car and it is 675 CCA(no idea what that means....) which is good for winter use....

anyways.. I have sinced performed ECU Reset , Accerlerator pedal release relearn, throttle valve close position relearn, and idle air volume learning as per the instructions on the technical page and it seems to help my situation effectively

the rpm still drops a tad below 500 when the car is alraedy warm, but it's able to pull back up to 700rpm without having the car shut down....

I have also been following a thread on this forum about a member messing up his Throttlebody.....and that thing would cost somewhere around US500.... (which means it'd cost somewhere around CAD$5000 up here in Canada)..so i guess i am not gonan touch that for now..

i willl keep you guys updated.

thanks again everyone

If you paid by credit card, I would return that battery as it is of insufficient capacity for your location.

http://www.interstatebatteries...84879

You should be using a 800cca capacity battery.

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http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp

"Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery."

"What are MCA or CA rates?This is a rating used to describe the discharge load in amperes which a new, fully charged battery at 32 degrees F (0C), can continuously deliver for 30 seconds and maintain a terminal voltage equal or greater than 1.2 volts per cell. It is sometimes referred to as Marine Cranking Amps or Cranking Amps."

"What is reserve capacity?Reserve Capacity, (RC) is a battery industry rating, defining a battery's ability to power a vehicle with an inoperative alternator or fan belt. The rating is the number of minutes a battery at 80 degrees F can be discharged at 25 amps and maintain a voltage of 10.5 volts for a 12 volt battery. The higher the reserve rating, the longer your vehicle can operate should your alternator or fan belt fail."

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Just my $.02

Telcoman

[Jacko3]

My little Nissan in the south uses 800cca. I can't imagine the G using anything less. I have never had a battery die on my before.

[Sentientbydesign]

My little Nissan in the south uses 800cca. I can't imagine the G using anything less. I have never had a battery die on my before.

That's overkill for your sentra(?). My I30 turned over with a 450 cca "el cheapo" battery. I can't see the actual Nissan battery being over 500 cca for the "little Nissan".

[SteveTheTech]

My little Nissan in the south uses 800cca. I can't imagine the G using anything less. I have never had a battery die on my before.

I have always personally used overkill batteries. My J has whatever the largest battery we had in stock (somewhere between 750 and 800 CCA). I too have never had a battery die on my and I am always the one who gets to jump the neighbors dead cars. So I would rather exceed the minimum or suggestion in regards to reserve amperage and cold cranking amps.