Thanks in advance.
I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima, with 210k miles. It's a great car, but its definitely beat up. I use it primarily to drive the 8 mile round trip to work, and the occasional errand. I don't care how the car looks, or even if it runs great, but I do need it to run. It has almost always started first try and gotten me to my destination.
A few weeks ago, I noticed it lacked acceleration. Even if I gave it a lot of gas, it didn't speed up as it normally does. But this intermittent.
Yesterday, I drove it 5 minutes, and as I was parking, it stalled. I was able to immediately restart it, and finish parking. When I drove home a few hours later, same thing. It starts, I drive a few minutes, and it dies. I can restart it, but the warmer the car is, the sooner it dies.
When I start it in the driveway, it will run for a few minutes and then die. If I give it gas, I can keep it going as long as I want, but not smoothly.
My cadalydic converter is in bad shape. Exhaust comes out of each end of it. My alternator is fine. My belts seem fine. My leather seats are broken in perfectly.
I tested the MAF sensor. Car stalled when MAF was connected, and when it was not connected. I did the voltage test on the MAF. The ground and supply leads tested within the parameters specified by my Chilton. According to Chilton, testing the white control wire should see a voltage of 3V when RPMs increased. I read 2.2V, but the voltage did increase and decrease when I increased and decreased the RPMs. I'm thinking MAF is OK?
So, long story short, the car starts and runs, and dies after a few minutes when the car warms up. I can keep it going as long as I give it gas.
Any suggestions on next steps would be truly appreciated.
Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
Update:
I tested the TPS. When testing the wide open/closed throttle position switch, there was no continuity measured with my multimeter when the throttle was open or closed.
I believe this indicates that my TPS is bad.
Would a bad TPS result in the condition that I described in my original post?
I tested the TPS. When testing the wide open/closed throttle position switch, there was no continuity measured with my multimeter when the throttle was open or closed.
I believe this indicates that my TPS is bad.
Would a bad TPS result in the condition that I described in my original post?
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NutriaforBreakfast
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:41 pm
- Car: Nissan Maxima 1995 VQDE engine
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
When you open and close the throttle body, your multimeter reading should
vary depending on how open or closed the throttle plate is. No reading
means your ECU and throttle body are not communicating and the car
won't accelerate. You might also check to see if the proper voltage is
being sent to the sensor as well. Some guy told me he was going down
the road one day and the car just stopped due to a bad TPS.
vary depending on how open or closed the throttle plate is. No reading
means your ECU and throttle body are not communicating and the car
won't accelerate. You might also check to see if the proper voltage is
being sent to the sensor as well. Some guy told me he was going down
the road one day and the car just stopped due to a bad TPS.
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
It could also be your IACV (Idle Air Control Valve).
In my mind, the suspects are: MAF, TPS, and IACV. I would check for any pending ODBC codes - a code would help you a lot. If you don't have an ODBC reader, Autozone will read it for you.
In my mind, the suspects are: MAF, TPS, and IACV. I would check for any pending ODBC codes - a code would help you a lot. If you don't have an ODBC reader, Autozone will read it for you.
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
I've got a new TPS on its way. When I tested it, I was getting bad ohm readings. I also noticed that it was only attached by one screw. The other screw was missing completely, and the TPS was loose.
I've been driving this thing lately because I have to. It's stalling out quicker than before. Often stalls out as soon as I put it in reverse to get out of the driveway. If I keep hitting the gas, it'll keep running. But when I open up on the road, she really starts to buck. With my foot on the gas, the RPMs surge and retreat, surge and retreat, almost like the car is only getting gas every other second. So I jerk all the way down the road.
TPS?
I've been driving this thing lately because I have to. It's stalling out quicker than before. Often stalls out as soon as I put it in reverse to get out of the driveway. If I keep hitting the gas, it'll keep running. But when I open up on the road, she really starts to buck. With my foot on the gas, the RPMs surge and retreat, surge and retreat, almost like the car is only getting gas every other second. So I jerk all the way down the road.
TPS?
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NutriaforBreakfast
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:41 pm
- Car: Nissan Maxima 1995 VQDE engine
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
Might try putting on those screws first before opening the new
TPS part. Also try to ohm in out agian with the multimeter
TPS part. Also try to ohm in out agian with the multimeter
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MaximumRPM
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2014 2:24 pm
- Car: 1992 Nissan Maxima SE
1990 Nissan D-21 Hardbody pick up
Re: Car runs rough, stalls after a couple minutes
Did the TPS do the trick ? I had a similar problem a few years ago with my 92' Maxima. I took it to the repair shop. 
They said it was the MAFS. The diagnostics cost me $72. not to mention the $150. for that remanufactured MAFS, that didn't correct my problem. What I did though was when I would drive, I'll start to feel the roughness in the engine and then it started to purge. What I would do is slip the transmission into neutral and turn the ignition off, and waited few seconds and then restarted the engine again, IN NEUTRAL, and that would clear my problem up for a little while, only for it to return. I told a Friend of mine about it and he said that it sounded like a fuel problem. I had already changed out the fuel filter, but then when I started tinkering with the fuel pump I didn't notice any issues with it and stuck it back in the gas tank and HEY!!!! 
that cleared up my problem. Later on I installed a new fuel pump and hadn't had the problem since. But if you ever need a fuel pump, please stay away from these $80. to $90. ones. I bought a Bosch fuel pump from "Herko" on line for $150.00 that listed elsewhere for $200.00 plus. Hope this helps you or anyone else out. 
They said it was the MAFS. The diagnostics cost me $72. not to mention the $150. for that remanufactured MAFS, that didn't correct my problem. What I did though was when I would drive, I'll start to feel the roughness in the engine and then it started to purge. What I would do is slip the transmission into neutral and turn the ignition off, and waited few seconds and then restarted the engine again, IN NEUTRAL, and that would clear my problem up for a little while, only for it to return. I told a Friend of mine about it and he said that it sounded like a fuel problem. I had already changed out the fuel filter, but then when I started tinkering with the fuel pump I didn't notice any issues with it and stuck it back in the gas tank and HEY!!!! that cleared up my problem. Later on I installed a new fuel pump and hadn't had the problem since. But if you ever need a fuel pump, please stay away from these $80. to $90. ones. I bought a Bosch fuel pump from "Herko" on line for $150.00 that listed elsewhere for $200.00 plus. Hope this helps you or anyone else out.