First time this has happened the car idles good when I get on the gas around 2700 the car starts to bog a little and all the way through the power band. Not sure if this is a plug issue or not. Any help is appreciated.

I'm also wondering if a boost leak would create these issues as well

Bfish wrote: ↑

Thu May 21, 2020 4:17 pm

I'm also wondering if a boost leak would create these issues as well

Yes it will, do a boost leak test. Pay attention to the short couplers on the turbo outlets.

So I did a boost leak test and found a hose that came off but I also found a bunch of leaks smh....it seems where the plenum meets the block on both sides is leaking air when I put pressure to the system any suggestions on this..... im assuming this is going to turn im into a big project

The plenum gasket? Never heard of one failing, just improper install.
Got a picture of the area? Hard to say on the internet.

Not sure how to send pics

Air is leaking out of that area though would that be a boost leak as well or another issue

Might also be head gasket not sure air is leaking out a bunch of areas

https://s.amsu.ng/Y7W3yoU3ZirN

This pic goes with the first one in the middle of the pic under the hose with the bar code on it is one place it is leaking looks like this is where the plenum meets the block but I'm not 100%

Second pic is on the passenger side on the back of the plenum but lower down this is what I was thinking might be the head gasket but again not sure

I can get some more pics if needed

Second pics is the exhaust cover gasket, likely the same on the driver side too. A plenum pull is required to replace all 4 valve covers.

How much pressure did you use for the leak test? Hope not too much, (Should be roughly 10psi max). Small leak from the covers shouldn’t affect the engine operation too much. Oil leaks are common from there with age. The two middle intake covers use a rubber gasket. Two outer exhaust covers uses a silicone liquid gasket, don’t forget about the two half moon shaped rubber seals at the back of the exh covers too. Toughest part of the repair is the plenum pull, I’d suggest the coolant line deletes too for ease of plenum install.

Would these gaskets going bad cause a boost leak and the engine running the way it is??

I started with 5psi and the pressure leaked so fast I could barely hear it so I upped it to 10-15 15 max and found a hose that was off totally then once i fixed that hose i saw these areas leaking air

I'm going to actually take it to a shop that is familiar with working on z's in my area I will probably have him delete as much stuff as possible without breaking the bank.......wo UK ld a hard pull on the highway cause these issues you think......it was running 100% then I did a good pull and it all started

Good call if you are not really comfortable with the z32.

My guess is that the hard pull(hi boost) probably popped the hose off. Valve cover leaks shouldn’t affect major running issue.
I would think it should run “ properly” after the hose was connected again.

It runs okay but when I'm just driving regular but when I get on it it lags pretty bad and the exhaust pops......could be another boost leak as well but those areas are spitting out so much air it's hard to hear......I can do quite a bit but this is over my range if experience

So for a shop to do an EGR delete, boost solenoid delete, AIV delete, coolant line bypass and valve cover gaskets what would you think this would take hours wise?? As always thank you for the help.

My guess, if the shop has done it before, about a full day(8hrs). I would say 2 days if they are new to these cars. Will they be removing the EGR completely or just disconnect the valve body and plug the holes?


FWIW, when I did mine, I just cut all the hoses that will be deleted for easy of plenum removal.
With the age of the harness, expect some may break and solder in new pig tails might be needed.

From what I have read it looks like to totally remove the EGR motor you have to pull the engine so I will most likely just be removing the hoses to clean up the engine bay and make the plenum easier to remove later on

Good call, plus it will be cheaper. You can remove it with engine in but transmission needs to removed so you can tilt the engine slightly froward for the EGR bolts removal. Put it on the list next clutch job.

Sounds like a plan thanks for the help man I really appreciate it!!!!!!! It's nice to see people who take pride and have passion in things

Turned out to be multiple boost leaks but main reason was 2 fried spark plugs burnt the tips right off