Car rolls forward while in 1st gear with clutch pedal down!

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

hey guys, can you all help me out? My daily is having transmission problems.

History: I bought it from a friend of mine, the car is all stock, originally auto, 2 years ago, he did a 5 spd swap,new rps street clutch installed, stock flywheel resurfaced, and an spl Clutch fork pivot. He was very busy with school so only drove the car a few times a month, since he had another car to put miles on.

a year and 1/2 later, he sold the car to me, i kept it as a daily while i built my maroon ka-t s14. I drove it for 4 mothns, then slave cyl died on me, i changed it, and now months later, its having issues with going into gear, this is where i need help.

issues: with motor running, it would not go into gear, unless i shove it into gear, reverse would not go into gear at all unless i turn car off, put it in reverse and turn car on.

while car is in either 1st or reverse, with the clutch pedal fully pressed to the floor, car would want to roll forward in 1st, and backwards in reverse, rpms would stumble from 900rpm to around 600rpm, but would not die.

a friend of mine recently took the transmission off while i was away, and he changed out the t/o bearing, he re assembled it and it does the same thing.

when driving, as long as im in gear, it would drive fine, but when i go to up shift or down shift, it would be really tuff, i'll have to force it...

parts inspection:i inspected the clutch master, and the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal, there are NO leaks anywhere, also, with a friend pushing in the clutch pedal, it does pump fluid to the slave, because the slave goes in and out, and also, the slave is bone dry, no leaks anywhere.

transmission fluid is full, and i bled the slave many of times.

my online research, i found this thread http://www.ka-t.org/forums/vie...ement

guy said that his springs in his clutch disc broke, but he was on stock clutch setup which probably had over 100k miles, i doubt that my rps clutch broke with just stock n/a ka power...also, i probably have less than 50k miles on mys setup...

anyone can help? please do, all would be appricieated

ps. I am using an autozone slave cyl. i wonder if it is broken somehow, because i know rps clutches are prone to breaking slave cyls. but my question is, what other way would slave break and not show signs of leakage? same question goes for the master cyl? can anyone help??

thanks!

[j dubb]

search clutch drag

[j dubb]

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdclutch.htm

Q: What causes my clutch to stick or drag?A: There is no single cause of a sticking clutch. Some more common reasons for a sticking clutch are:- Clutch controls are improperly adjusted. Clutch cable is collapsing.- Clutch spring tension is to tight, spring binding.- Too heavy an oil has been used in the clutch. A thick viscosity oil can cause the plates to stick, especially when cold.- Clutch oil is 'worn out' or burnt. The oil has been in the clutch to long, clutch plate wear is excessive causing slippage, or a driving style that slips the clutch. Changing the oil in a clutch often improves the situation.- Clutch plates are warped. Friction plates or metal plates may be warped.- Improper adjustment on primary drive chain/belt.

[j dubb]

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdclutch.htm

Q: What causes my clutch to stick or drag?A: There is no single cause of a sticking clutch. Some more common reasons for a sticking clutch are:- Clutch controls are improperly adjusted. Clutch cable is collapsing.- Clutch spring tension is to tight, spring binding.- Too heavy an oil has been used in the clutch. A thick viscosity oil can cause the plates to stick, especially when cold.- Clutch oil is 'worn out' or burnt. The oil has been in the clutch to long, clutch plate wear is excessive causing slippage, or a driving style that slips the clutch. Changing the oil in a clutch often improves the situation.- Clutch plates are warped. Friction plates or metal plates may be warped.- Improper adjustment on primary drive chain/belt.

hope this helps

[ka24dewhoneedsansr.]

could be syncroids. . .check it out.

[JNM240]

Sounds to me like the clutch master cylinder wasnt bench bled. Try bleeding the system at the slave cylinder again. If it gets better then slowly gets worse again, remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. You HAVE to get all the air out or it will continue to bleed down.

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

Sounds to me like the clutch master cylinder wasnt bench bled. Try bleeding the system at the slave cylinder again. If it gets better then slowly gets worse again, remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. You HAVE to get all the air out or it will continue to bleed down.

everything was bled correctly...

since posting this thread, i've bled it a number of times, replaced both slave and master cyl. with brand new parts and still nothing changed...

i came to the conclusion that its either pressure plate or something to do with the clutch fork and/or t/o bearing carrier...

dont have time to take it a part yet,i will one day...

[trackslut240]

any update? have the same problem with rps (blue) pressure plate, new koyo bearing, new pilot shaft bushing, fidanza flywheel, its a six puck sprung clutch plate, new master/slave cylinder from autozone, setting on the clutch is to the max(no freeplay), may be you can try that and see if it changes, adjust the master cylinder pedal setting to max..?.. i have issues shifting into first or any gear, and also car creeps forward. let me know if u got it fixed, thanks

i had another trans with me too so i tried both trans thinking it was a trans issue, coz i also get a noise in every gear on decel in gear...1st gear at 10 to 15mph, 2nd gear 20 to 25, 3rd gear 30 to 35, 4th gear(noisiest) 40 to 45, 5th gear no noises at all....

[00James]

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdclutch.htm

Q: What causes my clutch to stick or drag?A: There is no single cause of a sticking clutch. Some more common reasons for a sticking clutch are:- Clutch controls are improperly adjusted. Clutch cable is collapsing.- Clutch spring tension is to tight, spring binding.- Too heavy an oil has been used in the clutch. A thick viscosity oil can cause the plates to stick, especially when cold.- Clutch oil is 'worn out' or burnt. The oil has been in the clutch to long, clutch plate wear is excessive causing slippage, or a driving style that slips the clutch. Changing the oil in a clutch often improves the situation.- Clutch plates are warped. Friction plates or metal plates may be warped.- Improper adjustment on primary drive chain/belt.

i mean to be an ***, i noticed u said clutch oil. Where exactly does that go.

[TheOne]

do you have the stock hardline or an aftermarket clutch line?

this same thing used to happen to me with autozone/o'reilly master/slave, i switched to a friend's old(factory) master/slave and it fixed the problem, so it probably has to do with something along the lines of fluid pressure, the slave doesn't get enough pressure to push the clutch fork.

i'd try bench bleeding if somebody could explain in detail how do you do that.

friend of mine had this problem in his S14 after he swapped in a 5sp with new master/slave, found out his aftermarket clutch line(line that goes from master to slave) was leaking a bit, changed it and that fixed his problem.

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

hey guys, its been a while but heres an update...

sad to say, i took everything apart and put it all back together, and it still does the same thing!!

here's the details:

i removed the transmission, removed the clutch fork, t/o bearing, and carrier...

with my spare transmission, i removed the clutch fork, t/o bearing carrier, and t/o bearing...

put them side by side, and the fork that came out of my car was bent, t/o bearing was oddball, it didnt sit completely flat as compared to the parts off of my spare transmission...

so i used the fork and carrier from the spare transmission and a new t/o bearing, put it all back together, and its doing the same dam thing

after feeling bummed out, i did a few diagnostics:with the car on 4 jack stands, engine off, if i put it any gear...you can easily spin the rear tires(any direction)...

ok, with the engine on, no pedal's pressed, i can easily shift gears...with the engine on, WITH clutch pedal pressed to the floor and brakes applied, its tough to switch gears, feels like you are forcing it into gear as if the clutch wasnt pressed at all...

once car is in gear and engine is on, if i press the clutch to the floor and leave it in that gear, the wheeels will still spin...

any ideas? i dont think its any of the clutch hardlines, because nothing is leaking...also, keep in mind that the slave and mc is ALL brand new...slave was bled thoroughly....clutch pedal is extended to max leverage...

im starting to think its my pressure plate thats messed up, the springs is not releasing all the way, which would not let go of the clutch disc...or my transmission is really ****ed up, to where all gears are ****...

[trackslut240]

i highly doubt the clutch line coz i did bench bleed my new master cylinder, had a friend hold a bottle of fluid and constantly top as i pumped the clutch fluid out, i have a speed bleeder and got clear fluid no bubbles. i am running a hard line with the damper removed. all this clutch drama happened after i changed the clutch to rps 6 puck sprung with a blue pressure plate. i am going to try the old clutch which i took out. even though its glazed it didnt slip(coz the engine is prolly makin 90hp...240k, drinks a quart every 500 miles of semi hard driving). one thing i will try suggested from another forum is a longer clutch slave rod(the little piece in the boot).. this is driving me nuts..will have a verdict once i get done with it sometime in the next weekend.. no one had a problem with rps besides like five people from all over the internet??

[trackslut240]

did u try moving the clutch fork with a wrench to see if it allows you to push the clutch in, i would also see how far it moves before it bottoms out. then see how far the clutch slave moves it..

i might sound vague coz i am half asleep..

[maestro300]

hey guys, can you all help me out? My daily is having transmission problems.

History: I bought it from a friend of mine, the car is all stock, originally auto, 2 years ago, he did a 5 spd swap,new rps street clutch installed, stock flywheel resurfaced, and an spl Clutch fork pivot. He was very busy with school so only drove the car a few times a month, since he had another car to put miles on.

a year and 1/2 later, he sold the car to me, i kept it as a daily while i built my maroon ka-t s14. I drove it for 4 mothns, then slave cyl died on me, i changed it, and now months later, its having issues with going into gear, this is where i need help.

issues: with motor running, it would not go into gear, unless i shove it into gear, reverse would not go into gear at all unless i turn car off, put it in reverse and turn car on.

while car is in either 1st or reverse, with the clutch pedal fully pressed to the floor, car would want to roll forward in 1st, and backwards in reverse, rpms would stumble from 900rpm to around 600rpm, but would not die.

a friend of mine recently took the transmission off while i was away, and he changed out the t/o bearing, he re assembled it and it does the same thing.

when driving, as long as im in gear, it would drive fine, but when i go to up shift or down shift, it would be really tuff, i'll have to force it...

parts inspection:i inspected the clutch master, and the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal, there are NO leaks anywhere, also, with a friend pushing in the clutch pedal, it does pump fluid to the slave, because the slave goes in and out, and also, the slave is bone dry, no leaks anywhere.

transmission fluid is full, and i bled the slave many of times.

my online research, i found this thread http://www.ka-t.org/forums/vie...ement

guy said that his springs in his clutch disc broke, but he was on stock clutch setup which probably had over 100k miles, i doubt that my rps clutch broke with just stock n/a ka power...also, i probably have less than 50k miles on mys setup...

anyone can help? please do, all would be appricieated

ps. I am using an autozone slave cyl. i wonder if it is broken somehow, because i know rps clutches are prone to breaking slave cyls. but my question is, what other way would slave break and not show signs of leakage? same question goes for the master cyl? can anyone help??

thanks!

Wow, I did a google search and found you having the same problem I'm having... at least I think. First off, my apologies as I dont own a Nissan but have a 2001 Corvette exhibiting this exact issue. I do have a question for you... I have a hard time shifting into reverse (meaning I have to slam it in) however, if I push into reverse while turning off the engine.. it just pops right in!

Same as you; the car rolls in reverse with clutch pushed in... rolls forward in first with clutch pushed in... At a stop light I even just leave it in neutral sometimes because it never seems to settle (stop)

I already changed out my clutch fluid (however my slave cylinder.. thank you GM, is so far underneath that I have to pull the transmission to get to it) I was thinking of just having a new clutch put in... I will keep you updated of what happens and this is almost undrivable now (shifting issues) Hopefully we can figure this out.

Cheers.

[trackslut240]

i wrote to rps about the issue and they told me to take out all the parts, the fidanza flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate and send it to them, they will do a free inspection and advise on what is wrong...

i dont have the time or money to do that, on the 21st of april, i will take it apart and see whats going on and try the stock clutch, prolly put in all the stock worn out parts to see if the problem is elsewhere(highly doubtful)

as far as the slave goes, i had a problem with one before where it was leaking internally, meaning the fluid wasnt pushing the cylinder out all the way and it would leak only if i squeeze the slave boot,

maestro300: wow that sucks u have to take the trans out to chnage the slave, we all have similar problems, i hope one of us could come up with a solution. have you tried adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal? someone had this issue and he adjusted the clutch pedal free play and problems went away.

the car is drivable but i hate the shifting... i would be happier if i had no clutch at all(just kidding)... will keep you guys posted and please post any new findings here, thanks to all

[maestro300]

i wrote to rps about the issue and they told me to take out all the parts, the fidanza flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate and send it to them, they will do a free inspection and advise on what is wrong...

i dont have the time or money to do that, on the 21st of april, i will take it apart and see whats going on and try the stock clutch, prolly put in all the stock worn out parts to see if the problem is elsewhere(highly doubtful)

as far as the slave goes, i had a problem with one before where it was leaking internally, meaning the fluid wasnt pushing the cylinder out all the way and it would leak only if i squeeze the slave boot,

maestro300: wow that sucks u have to take the trans out to chnage the slave, we all have similar problems, i hope one of us could come up with a solution. have you tried adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal? someone had this issue and he adjusted the clutch pedal free play and problems went away.

the car is drivable but i hate the shifting... i would be happier if i had no clutch at all(just kidding)... will keep you guys posted and please post any new findings here, thanks to all

Well I'll take a look at free play adjustment... thanks Well its not just my transmission that will have to come out for clutch slave bleeding... but in order to get the trans out; you have to remove the exhaust from the headers back; torque tube (driveshaft), rear end, all rear suspension.. then the torque tube, transmission, clutch all drop down at the same time. Fun huh?

Anyways, let us know how it goes! Thanks again.

[trackslut240]

wow...thats a lot of work, and i am being lazy just pulling out the engine and trans together... well i guess more fun costs more work i would get another clutch just in case this one has something broken, i wish i could help..good luck with the teardown..

let us know how it goes..

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

UPDATE!!!! I FIXED IT!!!...

it was the clutch pressure plate sticking!

summary:from my 1st time pulling the transmission, the things i've changed were clutch master, slave cyl, throwout bearing, fork, and t/b carrier...also bled slave many times and adjusted clutch master rod length as long as possible... still nothing

after that didnt work, my 2nd time puling the transmission, i thought it was the rps pressure plate not retracting all the way, i did a test....pressed down on the splines of the pp to see if the contact surface would raise up(demostrating as if i was pushing in the clutch pedal), well only one side raised up, the other didnt,

so i ordered a new exedy oem style clutch kit, and figured i might as well change the flywheel so i ordered a new autozone one,

long story short, i just finished installing everything today and the car drives fine now...

DAM RPS! this car is n/a ka, only been to 1 drift event, and daily driven, thats all! and the rps max(street disc) clutch failed!!

to the guy who sent his clutch back to rps, do you think they would accept my clutch for inspection??

hope that helped you guys...

[trackslut240]

GREAT NEWS MAN!!! i am gonna take mine off monday and inspect it, i am pretty sure its the pressure plate but i have my doubt on the clutch disc splines too, will see. this is the email they sent me, write to them with your problem, i think they will tell you the same thing. [email protected]

"Fawaaz, thank you for your email. The best thing to do is give us a call at818-993-9174 and get an RGA number and send the clutch and Fidanza flywheelto us and we will do a free complete inspection of the operation of theentire unit and let you know what's wrong and how to fix it. RPS Sales Staff "

its worth a shot, and i would appreciate if you let us know the outcome, thanks for the update.fawaaz

[ajolliff]

So did you have to order a whole new clutch kit. RPS wouldn't work with you on getting a new pressure plate, nor would the company you bought it from?

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

So did you have to order a whole new clutch kit. RPS wouldn't work with you on getting a new pressure plate, nor would the company you bought it from?

really, i was tiried of it, it was the 3rd time the transmission was pulled from the car,i wanted the car fix asap so i can have something to drive around with a/c! so i just bought an oem exedy clutch and a flywheel, werent that expensive since one of my friends worked at autozone and hooked me up...

reason why i didnt contact rps, is because this clutch was installed 2 years ago by a friend of mine who owned the car, and now that i have it, i didnt know if rps would do anything or not

plus this is my daily...so as long as it works, im good

[trackslut240]

when i wrote to them, i told them i bought it two years ago but never installed, they could have told me "tough" but they didnt and are willing to do a free analysis. and how to fix it since i cant figure it out myself. i think i have an idea what they will tell me, it will prolly be a) buy a new clutch pressure plate or combo, b) buy their pressure plate repair kit or thingymajigger... i think i will send it to them, sure it will cost a good 35 to 40 bucks for round trip shipping, but i think it will be worth it else i will have a 350 dollar paper weight... so much for buying a used part and relying on the word of the seller, who is a part of nico now but wasnt then, i am not going to name them, coz i havent tried talking to them about it.

slyde: did u ever get in touch with rps?

ajoliff: i think i should talk to the place i bought it from, but they did say "as is no warranty", and the worst part is this was bought from them two years ago...if i was that company owner i would say warranty is done long ago... i dont know i might try...but i am giving myself the answer already...

[SLde_Show_Enthusiast]

slyde: did u ever get in touch with rps?

nope, never bothered, since i fixed the problem,im just gona sell the clutch disc to my friend who needs it since his 3yr old daily driven 300whp ka-t rps clutch disc is on its way out...