My cars temp is normal under normal driving, stop and go, highway, etc. When ever i turn on my a/c, engine temp goes way up to the "gonna pop a headgasket" zone.
I have to 12" eletric fans, the stock a/c condenser fan didnt work so i moved one of the electric fans up front to where the stock a/c condenser fan was and left the other electric can on the opposite side on the back of the radiator. I had flushed the coolant about 2 months ago and there are no bubbles in the system. Only thing I can think off is that its time for a new radiator. Any ideas?
car overheats with a/c on
Check to make sure the AC condenser is recieving coolant, sometimes the lines can get blocked up, Check fluid level religiously, try turning the AC on as soon as you start the car cold and if you need to add any more fluid, thats a crazy long shot...... Do a pressure test on the cooling system to see if it's leaking fluid anywhere, etc.
ummm, you know you cant just put a fan that is supposed to mount on the back of the rad to the front ? dont you?? there are the fans are puller fans when they mount to the rear and pusher fans when mounted on front.. by mounting a puller fan on the front the fans are actually working against each other thus making for very inefficent a radiator, that would deff be noticable when you put that extra load on the motor from the AC motor!!!! try mounting them both on the rear again and see if that doesnt help... if it doesnt go get like a 10in pusher fan to moun on the front !!! or get a junk yard fan for the AC !!
Werd. With aftermarket electric fans you can usually set them as pullers or pushers, I thint it's ideal to put two pullers on the engine side of the radiator pulling through from the front of the car, and a PUSHER on the FRONT of the AC condenser pushing air through the condenser and at the radiator. This gives you a continuous flow of air, kind of like:
>l l l l>(x2)
>l l l l>(x2)
Hopefully the fans weren't flipped. Verify that the fans are, indeed, blowing in the right direction. If your radiator appears in good shape on the outside (few dings and bent fins), then maybe your water pump is corroded. Doesn't your car have a belt-driven fan at all, or did you remove it? If it's on, it might have a bad clutch. Clogged cooling system, as mentioned, is a possibility if maintenance hasn't been great on it.
the clutch fan was completely removed. the fans are set to blow in the right direction. The fan on the a/c condenser is set to pull air in, just like the stock fan was doing. The second fan is pulling air on the back of the radiator, like the clutch fan was doing. The fans can be set either push or pull.
I did the work on the cooling system about 2 months ago, coolant came out green then. I completely flushed the system (block and all) and re filled it until full and all bubbles gone.
Radiator has a few bent fins but nothing major, will re check water pump tomorrow.
I did the work on the cooling system about 2 months ago, coolant came out green then. I completely flushed the system (block and all) and re filled it until full and all bubbles gone.
Radiator has a few bent fins but nothing major, will re check water pump tomorrow.
trpower7 wrote:Check to make sure the AC condenser is recieving coolant, sometimes the lines can get blocked up, Check fluid level religiously, try turning the AC on as soon as you start the car cold and if you need to add any more fluid, thats a crazy long shot...... Do a pressure test on the cooling system to see if it's leaking fluid anywhere, etc.
a/c system doesnt work that way. coolant doesnt run thru the a/c lines, freon does. Once the system is charged and has no leaks, it wouldnt be a good idea to over charge the system.
Yeah I got TOTALLY turned around, I meant make sure the AC condenser is recieving freon, R12 I believe his car uses. I meant to turn on the AC on HOT and see if his heater core might be leaking, if he filled two months ago it might have started leaking during the winter when the heat was on, although if he has checked coolant levels recently this would be a mute point. I would agree with the water pump thing, but a corroded water pump usually shows it when you do a flush. I'm pretty stumped, normal things like rad cap, t-stat, etc, usually fix things like this. I'm boondoggled for sure.......
idle does speed up, but the extra tension does take a toll on the engine, believe me I've experienced it first hand. Just as an example: Why do you think when you turn the AC on that the radiator fans (in electric fan cars) automatically come on and stay on for the period the ac is on? Because the compressor alone puts alot of strain on the engine. Putting the compressor on ALONG with a over tight belt is definitely going to cause it to overheat.
U12 2NR wrote:idle does speed up, but the extra tension does take a toll on the engine, believe me I've experienced it first hand. Just as an example: Why do you think when you turn the AC on that the radiator fans (in electric fan cars) automatically come on and stay on for the period the ac is on? Because the compressor alone puts alot of strain on the engine. Putting the compressor on ALONG with a over tight belt is definitely going to cause it to overheat.
100% of the time, the fan that does come on and stay on is the condenser fan.