This is a s13 with KA e. No turbo or any mod on the engine.
I did clutch and steering rack swap. For this I and my friends took the engine out and did the swap. Now with engine back in, I did my very first radiator flush.
I put 2 liters of tap water in and ran the engine for about 5 minutes. I unplugged the radiator drain plug but only 1.5 liters of the yellowish tap water came out. With probably 0.5 liters of tap water inside the engine and radiator, I put 1.5 liters of PEAK 50/50 coolant.
Could the mixture of 0.5 liters of tap water and the 1.5 liters of PEAK 50/50 coolant be the cause of this over heat? I was driving the car for about 5 minutes when I saw the needle at the top of the temp gauge.
Modified by xagna at 8:48 PM 5/9/2006
car overheats after very first time radiator flush
Re: car overheats after very first time radiator flush (xagna)
Looks like you just didn't bleed the coolant system correctly - did you open the coolant burp hole on teh intake manifold? then while running, let the defroster on full heat run? And squeezing the radiator hoses & shaking the car while it is warmed up? All of this until bubbles stop coming out...
Re: (xagna)
Hahahahaha. Ok, you need to do something...
I hate to be mean, but you seriously need to learn what words mean before you use them.
Flushing the radiator is an entire process. Out of that process, you forgot the bleed the system part, that's why you are overheating.
So either search on how to proper flush or bleed the coolant system (either here on nico, or on google, most cars follow the same procedure). Or, follow the advice in my first post ^^^^^
I hate to be mean, but you seriously need to learn what words mean before you use them.
Flushing the radiator is an entire process. Out of that process, you forgot the bleed the system part, that's why you are overheating.
So either search on how to proper flush or bleed the coolant system (either here on nico, or on google, most cars follow the same procedure). Or, follow the advice in my first post ^^^^^
Thanks for the advice. But I already printed out 30 pages long from Freshalloy and 240sx forums about bleeding coolant system and flushing. I was getting confused more and more as I read them. I guess too much info is no good at all...
BTW I drove for 5 minutes with temp gauge needle at one notch below the F (top) notch. How much is the chance that I killed my engine completely?
Modified by xagna at 9:52 PM 5/11/2006
BTW I drove for 5 minutes with temp gauge needle at one notch below the F (top) notch. How much is the chance that I killed my engine completely?
Modified by xagna at 9:52 PM 5/11/2006
allright dude, there is a bleed screw were the upper radiator hose goes to the intake manifold. you remove this bolt, pour coolant (coolant is the term for the antifreeze and water solution you are using) into the radiator untill you see coolant start coming out of the bleed hole. at this point, put the bolt back in being careful not to overtighten it. fill the radiator all the way up, cap it and start the engine. let it run for a few minutes, then let it cool down for a while. open the rad cap and bleed screw again and pour in some more coolant untill it overflows again. this should get most of your air out.
if you think you ran it hot too long, do a compression test to see if your head gasket is shot.
oh, and never start your car without filling the cooling system completely. i may have misunderstood your original post, but i understand that the cooling system was empty and you only put 2L of coolant into the system. that would be very bad for your car if that is the case.
if you think you ran it hot too long, do a compression test to see if your head gasket is shot.
oh, and never start your car without filling the cooling system completely. i may have misunderstood your original post, but i understand that the cooling system was empty and you only put 2L of coolant into the system. that would be very bad for your car if that is the case.
Re: (navysnail)
A few clarifications... a lot of the info is good, but just to clear some things up, you *should* use distilled water. it's only about $.99 for 2.5 gallons at the grocery store. it has no contaminents that tap water does. you can use tap water, but it's just not the best. So either way, but distilled water is the best way to go.
And you mix this with antifreeze. 50/50 is a good ratio. you can also add water wetter (or similar). some people swear by it, others have seen no difference.
Lastly, running a car with no water won't instantly damage it. it takes the car a while to get warm enough to damage anything. Drag cars (the fastest ones) don't run any cooling systems. That being said, it isn't a good idea to run the car w/out at least water in it. but don't get too worried that you ran it for a sec w/out water. no biggie.
the factory temp gauges A. suck and B. are usually set conservatively. Meaning that they might not be that accurate and the indicated red zone isn't necessarily the damage zone.
To check that stuff, as has been suggested, do a compression check, and check for water in oil and oil in water. you can also get/rent a tool that detect exhaust in the coolant.
But your problem, ASSuming everything is working properly, is just air in the system. you need to [properly] bleed the system. you can add coolant (properly mixed) while the car is first started up running (read: not hot) if desired.
do a double check of everything -- esp. thermostat and water pump.
And you mix this with antifreeze. 50/50 is a good ratio. you can also add water wetter (or similar). some people swear by it, others have seen no difference.
Lastly, running a car with no water won't instantly damage it. it takes the car a while to get warm enough to damage anything. Drag cars (the fastest ones) don't run any cooling systems. That being said, it isn't a good idea to run the car w/out at least water in it. but don't get too worried that you ran it for a sec w/out water. no biggie.
the factory temp gauges A. suck and B. are usually set conservatively. Meaning that they might not be that accurate and the indicated red zone isn't necessarily the damage zone.
To check that stuff, as has been suggested, do a compression check, and check for water in oil and oil in water. you can also get/rent a tool that detect exhaust in the coolant.
But your problem, ASSuming everything is working properly, is just air in the system. you need to [properly] bleed the system. you can add coolant (properly mixed) while the car is first started up running (read: not hot) if desired.
do a double check of everything -- esp. thermostat and water pump.
yeah, but dude...if i understand right it wasnt a second, it was driven for 5min. im not saying there was damage done, only that the posibility does exist and should not be ruled out prematurely.
the factory temp gauge on a 240 takes about 20 degrees to make a noticable change on the gauge
as for the drag car example, those engines are only run for a few quick runs before being completely overhauled.
the factory temp gauge on a 240 takes about 20 degrees to make a noticable change on the gauge
as for the drag car example, those engines are only run for a few quick runs before being completely overhauled.
Thanks for your replies. With your advices, I bled the cooling system. While putting tap water into the radiator(jfryjfry, I got to read your post only after I bled.) I heard buddle popping noises and saw water coming out of bleed hole when I filled 4 liters of tap water. After filling tap water, I put the bleed screw back and ran the engine for 10 minutes. I raced engine to 3000 rpm about 5 times for 30-40 seconds each. What I noticed weird was that I took very long for the engine temp gauge needle to rise from the bottom to 4 notchs above as if it was winter.
After that, I test drove the engine for 10 minutes around block. For the first five minutes the temp gauage needle stayed at 4 notches from the bottom. But at 6th minute, it rose to 1 notch below the top. As the needle began to rise, I came home.
I have not change thermostet. Could stuck thermostet be the cause of this?
After that, I test drove the engine for 10 minutes around block. For the first five minutes the temp gauage needle stayed at 4 notches from the bottom. But at 6th minute, it rose to 1 notch below the top. As the needle began to rise, I came home.
I have not change thermostet. Could stuck thermostet be the cause of this?
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Re: (xagna)
you'll just need a good combo of extensions and universal joints for your rachet...xagna wrote:...BTW, the engine block drain plug is in a very tight place. What kind of tool do I need to catch all the coolant or water coming out of this?
it does help a bit to have the front driver side tire off so you can manipulate the tools better... I agree, it's a major PITA but I did it to make sure I have distilled water/coolant mixture in there... GL!