Car overeheats with AC on

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Nismo1182
Posts: 1697
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 6:51 am
Car: Z06

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My cars temp is normal under normal driving, stop and go, highway, etc. When ever i turn on my a/c, engine temp goes way up to the "gonna pop a headgasket" zone.

I have to 12" eletric fans, the stock a/c condenser fan didnt work so i moved one of the electric fans up front to where the stock a/c condenser fan was and left the other electric can on the opposite side on the back of the radiator. The one on the condenser is pushing and the one on the radiator is pulling. Radiator is still in good shape and water pump sounds good.

I had flushed the coolant about 2 months ago and there are no bubbles in the system. Any ideas?


Q45tech
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Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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So you decided to redesign the cooling system without benefit of test chambers or test equipment.

What is the difference between pushing and pulling as long as the surrronds [foam and plastic air seals] are good?

"Radiator is still in good shape and water pump sounds good." .......and visual appearance has what to do with real measured cooling capacity.

Since the AC can add 24,000 BTU of heat to the incoming [ to radiator] air [about 30F delta] seems that the cooling system is already on ragged edge of malfunctioning without AC........should have enough reserve to function at 120F in Arizona.

Radiators start a slow decine from brand new [external internal corrosion, bent fins, trash, etc]..........the usually solution is replacement every 7 years or so.

electric fans are designed [blades] to either push or pull when you flip sides how did you redesign the blades ....just mount backwards?

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Nismo1182
Posts: 1697
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 6:51 am
Car: Z06

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Q45tech wrote:So you decided to redesign the cooling system without benefit of test chambers or test equipment.

What is the difference between pushing and pulling as long as the surrronds [foam and plastic air seals] are good?

"Radiator is still in good shape and water pump sounds good." .......and visual appearance has what to do with real measured cooling capacity.

Since the AC can add 24,000 BTU of heat to the incoming [ to radiator] air [about 30F delta] seems that the cooling system is already on ragged edge of malfunctioning without AC........should have enough reserve to function at 120F in Arizona.

Radiators start a slow decine from brand new [external internal corrosion, bent fins, trash, etc]..........the usually solution is replacement every 7 years or so.

electric fans are designed [blades] to either push or pull when you flip sides how did you redesign the blades ....just mount backwards?


-Yup

-The stock ac condenser fan pushed air thru the condenser, I could not mount my electric fan on the back of the condenser either.

-It has nothing to do with it, but if the water pump bearings are going out or the radiator is rusted to ****, im sure you would think those might be the culprit would you not?

-I didnt know about the heat issue, thanks for the heads up.

-I should start looking to upgrade the radiator and replace the water pump. Wouldnt hurt either if those really arent the problem.

-I just reversed the polarity.

Both my fans were mounted on the back of the radiator before. And i did not know my ac fan wasnt working. Once i found out (my car still over heated with both fans on the back) i threw away the stock ac fan and put one of the electric fans in its spot.


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