Car on ACC, Dash Light Off

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
zengshengliu
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:21 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL

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I just encounter a strange problem (maybe?) with my car.
(I don't remember how it suppose to work :crazy: but I always thought when ignition is on ACC, some light on the combination meter is on, but if this statement if false, please ignore my imagination and the rest of the post)

After I got to work this morning, when I turn of my car, upon turning the ignition to ACC, the car instrument panel(combination meter) turn off. The radio remain on, but the instrument panel, along with my scangauge II which plug into the OBD-II port doesn't work (while on ACC). I did tried turning the car off and on (without starting the engine) and the instrument panel does come back on while on "ON" position, but remain off on "ACC", which seems very strange to me.

I haven't have time to diagnose the problem yet since I am at work, but what should I be looking for? I would expect a burnt fuse to result in the instrument panel to not work at all, but the fact that when the car is "ON" (engine off) it comes back on make me thinks its not the fuse problem.


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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2634
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX #5
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Maybe the ignition switch itself is going bad. That or the ACC relays. There are typically two of those. Check that stuff. I don't see this as being a fuse issue.

You can whap the dash and see if that flickers the lights. Let us know when you have more information.

zengshengliu
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:21 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL

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So I got a different issue (but maybe related) today. When I am about to head home tonight, when I turn the ignition to on (not started yet), the power to the entire car got cut off after about half a second. I couldn't get it to restart or anything. Open the hood, looks around, nothing un-normal. Then I accidently press the lock button on the key (keyless entry) and it start working again, as if nothing happen. Of course all the trip meters and got reset due to lost of power, but other than that, everything seems normal. ScanGaugeII report no code also (except for the fact that it turn blank with backlight remain on, and I have to disconnect and reconnect the OBDII port to get it working again.)

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darylzero
Posts: 1267
Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:28 am
Car: Nissan Rogue 2009 SL AWD Premium Pkg.

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Get your battery tested. check the battery terminals for corrosion

zengshengliu
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:21 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL

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I did recently replaced the battery with Optima Yellow Top, and the car did start afterward without problem (no jump needed) so I would think its not battery related problem?

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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2634
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX #5
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Hmm, the other day I was helping a guy in the Walmart parking lot. He had bought and installed a new battery for his 4-Runner. It wouldn't start after installation. It clicked and clicked. I found the clicking relay, it was for an alarm system. So, what had to be done was to reset the alarm. There was a specific ignition key procedure and I think we put the car into the acc position and then plugged in the battery and all worked fine. You could look into that for clues. OEM alarm system with new battery type stuff.

Another oddball maybe thing is that the battery in your key fob is needing to be replaced. That doesn't seem to explain much here though.

There are articles about parasitic drain with Rogue batteries dying regularly. You can search for that stuff and look into it.

You have a non-oem battery. Did you get the correct Optima? Did you test your alternator before replacing your battery to see that it cranks at 14.4 volts?

zengshengliu
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:21 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL

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centralcoaster33 wrote: Hmm, the other day I was helping a guy in the Walmart parking lot. He had bought and installed a new battery for his 4-Runner. It wouldn't start after installation. It clicked and clicked. I found the clicking relay, it was for an alarm system. So, what had to be done was to reset the alarm. There was a specific ignition key procedure and I think we put the car into the acc position and then plugged in the battery and all worked fine. You could look into that for clues. OEM alarm system with new battery type stuff.
Its not the same situation as mine, as when the power got cut, its zero power, nothing is on. Can't even unlock the door or anything during that time, and it just magically come back to life afterward.
centralcoaster33 wrote: Another oddball maybe thing is that the battery in your key fob is needing to be replaced. That doesn't seem to explain much here though.
This would make sense, except I just replace the key battery about 2 weeks ago.
centralcoaster33 wrote: There are articles about parasitic drain with Rogue batteries dying regularly. You can search for that stuff and look into it.
The weird thing is, after the power comes back, I checked the voltage of the car (with ScanGaugeII) and it reads 12.5v (that was after the car been sitting in the parking lot for 8 hours). Car also started fine when the power comes back, no slow cranking, no flickering light. It just started right back up as if it never happen.
centralcoaster33 wrote: You have a non-oem battery. Did you get the correct Optima? Did you test your alternator before replacing your battery to see that it cranks at 14.4 volts?
The battery size is off from the official site so that the correct size. I did not test the alternator but I know the old battery was bad because one of the cell has been low on water, causing damage to it, and a battery charger doesn't even charge it up anymore.

I drove the car again today and the issue didn't happen again. I will keep my eyes on it and hope that it doesn't happen when I am out on the road.
Also, due to the nature of the issue (unpredictability), its hard to have others diagnose it as I can't reproduce the issue at the moment, nor can I make it happen.

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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Sounds like the terminals aren't making good contact. Pull and clean the cables and the new battery's terminals then reseat them carefully, making sure everything is tight and clean. My daughter has a jeep the previous owner replaced a battery cable end with a size to large. So you can tighten it all the way down and it still moves, it's good for a while and then she suddenly gets a no start. She knows now to lift the hood and wiggle that terminal and it starts every time .

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darylzero
Posts: 1267
Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:28 am
Car: Nissan Rogue 2009 SL AWD Premium Pkg.

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zengshengliu wrote:I did recently replaced the battery with Optima Yellow Top, and the car did start afterward without problem (no jump needed) so I would think its not battery related problem?
Probably not. You cleaned the terminals correct?

Did you get the D35 size battery? this one, https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/p ... &find=find

zengshengliu
Posts: 359
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:21 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL

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Yep, D35 is the one I have.
I checked the terminal and its all tight, but I will double check today again.

And happy Thanksgiving :)

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darylzero
Posts: 1267
Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:28 am
Car: Nissan Rogue 2009 SL AWD Premium Pkg.

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zengshengliu wrote:Yep, D35 is the one I have.
I checked the terminal and its all tight, but I will double check today again.

And happy Thanksgiving :)
clean them with a wire brush. Happy Thanksgiving!

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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X2 on the wire brush, and wire brush the cable end. I realize you just replaced the battery, but so had I on my daughters jeep that I referenced in the above post.


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