Car not running perfectly. (Hesitation between 2000-3000 rpm

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
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Alecks91
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Car: 1993 Nissan 300zx 2+2 N/A
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Alright, I know how people feel about people creating an account and posting a new topic as soon as they're registered.
I would like to say though that I have been searching for about two months on this forum along with others, and straight up Google searches.
I hope to become an active member of this community and also look forward to everyone's insight. Now on to the problem :)

After keeping up much maintenance on my newly drivable Z (I've got a 1993 300zx N/A 2+2 Standard Transmission with an imported engine, multiple mods that I can list if necessary), it seems to have hesitation (almost a misfire?) between 2 and 3000 rpms.
I'm not an EXCELLENT mechanic, but I'm learning and have done everything on my own (don't believe in paying someone to do something I could learn to do).
I've performed an engine swap (twice =_=), changed the PCV valves, done all the mods myself, replaced power steering pump, starter, O2 sensors, etc. I'm rambling, but what I'm trying to say is that for the most part, I do know what I am doing, and have resources available to do so.

To get back on topic though, sometimes the hesitation is almost non-existent, and sometimes it is very noticable (when driving between 2 and 3000 rpm the sound is comparable to someone rolling down the back window in a sedan, the choppy-windy sound we'll call it lol).
I have the timing set right on 15 degrees, have gone through many, MANY hesitation/rough idle trial and error type things, cleaned and inspected coolant temp sensors, cleaned the throttle body, checked fuel pressure, unplugged coil packs to check for idle drop, check and set the TPS, checked the MAS. I'm just running out of ideas. :gotme

The hesitation really affects the acceleration and I know it used to have more get up and go than this.

As a side note (may or may not be related) EVERY time I start it up (cold start or driving for a few hours) the car bounces between 250 and about 600 rpm for about 25-30 seconds, it then decides to idle comfortably at 1000-1100 rpms. Turning the A/C on/off drops/raises the rpm by about 150-200, but only for about 5 seconds max so I believe that that part is fine.
If I punch the gas when it is bouncing between 250 and 600 it either dies or gets extremely close to it, however if I gradually lay on the pedal, it rises fine and smoothly and when let off the pedal it falls back down to its 1000 rpm.
When it is idling smoothly at the 1000-1100 range, punching the gas has about a half-second hesitation before rising fine. I can hear the intake "gasp" when I step on it, so I know the throttle is opening up like it should. As I said I have cleaned the throttle body well.
Also as stated, I cleaned the PCV valves and that seemed to help some since they were pretty clogged. I have replaced the O2 sensors, but used some from a parts car, they were working fine though when that car was "parked".

And finally, (again may or may not be related), when I do try to accelerate heavily there is what sounds like a belt that chirps at about 3000rpms. Not when I step on the gas, but when the car rises to 3000 it chirps once :werd: . It also does it occasionally when I push in the clutch after heavy acceleration.

The slight hesitation when stepping on the gas while idling may be acceptable, and I just don't know how quick the response should be, but the loss of power or hesitation at the rpm range is very disappointing. :(
After putting the countless hours and money into the car I want it to run right, and know there was a time when it didn't do this.

I really hope to get some insightful answers and get this fixed ASAP. In the mean time, here are somethings I will try:
-Planning to get NEW PCV valves and hoses, rather than just cleaning the current ones.
-I have an AshSpec tuned ECU, and plan on calling them tomorrow (Monday) and seeing if I should have adjusted the timing to something different.
-Check the actual injectors rather than just the coil packs to see if they're actually working.
-and finally (what I may should have just started with) check the ECU for the codes it's throwing.

If anyone knows the answer to the AshSpec ECU timing question, feel free to answer. Also, if someone feels just cleaning the PCV valves was enough, let me know. I do have a service manual if someone puts reference to that. I also do have a parts car and two spare motors with almost all attachments (including the full 12 coil packs and injectors ;) if someone has something that may require trying different parts.
Plz NICOCLUB, help me figure this out! :mike


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Alecks91
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Alright, I've got new PCV valves and hoses ordered. I figure they aren't too expensive and even if they're not causing the problem, changing them won't hurt.
I called AshSpec about 6 times today and never got an answer, just the "we are on the other line with a customer, don't leave a message, we have caller ID" answering machine. Decided to call Z1, they said that I should just keep the timing at 15 degrees.

Also, since I posted this, I checked my fuel pressure. I'm running about 43 psi at idle and about 50 psi when I step on the gas. From what I've read this is way to high. :confused: I asked the Z1 guy about the fuel pressure, he said that he doesn't think the ECU tune could or would raise the fuel pressure. I didn't want to argue with him, b/c I don't know about tuning ECUs, but doesn't it remap fuel and provide more fuel in some cases? Someone please clarify this in case I still am not able to get AshSpec on the phone.

I just check the ECU codes and I'm throwing 34 Detonation Sensor Circuit :frown: and 53 Exhaust Gas Sensor Circuit (Right).
As soon as I'm done writing this, I'm going to go run the test on the right sensor to see what its doing.

Getting new O2 Sensors isn't a huge deal. I've changed them once b/c I thought they may be a problem, but the detonation sensor scares me. I hear that that's an in depth, engine-out-of-the-car deal. I don't want to have to lift the engine again :facepalm:

Any direction appreciated.

marty1mc
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Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT - Z owner since 2003
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For the detonation sensor there are kits that allow you to mount one on the back of the plenum. This should work until you get a chance to do it right. While you don't have to pull the engine, it is easier if you drop the transmission or have the EGR deleted. You can get to it by removing the upper and lower plenum. However, the EGR is bolted into the lower plenum, hence it's better if it has been deleted.

The ECU doesn't do anything with fuel pressure, just remaps how long the injector fires. The system assumes fuel pressure in range.

gam30
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Car: infiniti m30

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hey, i'm definitely the last guy to give advice on mechanics, but my experience was with the timing lines on the wheel. facing the car, i counted the left line as 0*degrees and the fourth line from the left as 15*btdc(0,5,10,15). just found out the right most line is 0*degrees. and the fourth line FROM THE RIGHT is 15*btdc. just my 2cents. good luck.

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Alecks91
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I greatly appreciate both of your responses. :)
After ohm-ing the detonator sensor/ECU plug-in and finding the sensor side defective, I have taken the detonator sensor out of one of my spare engines that had all the timing covers off, hoses etc (mainly to see how much of a job it will be). I cringe at the thought that I will need to do this to the engine I currently have in the car:(
Marty: For the time being I will try the infamous "resistor fix," until I get another sensor. At that point I will try one of the fixes/kits that you mentioned to mount it elsewhere.
Do you think that it would actually be necessary to install the sensor back down in the engine where Nissan originally put it, or would one of the kits be enough for my N/A car?
I know some people feel that the alternate locations are more than enough, and many people feel that "Nissan put it where they did for a reason."

And Gam30:
I do appreciate you taking the time to help. I am going to do the above stated, as well as change incoming PCV valves and go from there.
Fingers crossed that that eliminates the problem.

GerryO
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Recall a temperatue sensor associated with the EGR that's wired pretty delicately in comparison to some other sensors.

It's very difficult to set the timing, adjust the TPS and set the idle speed with a KS Code, which also could be caused by a bad cable/connections.

Managed to swap an O2 sensor connector with the KS connector, after I pulled my plenum. It took me a while to sort things out. Had a Code 34, but no O2 sensor Code and performance was sluggish.

There's also a simple fuel pressure relief valve in the system that I imagine could become clogged/more restrictive, increasing fuel pressure to the injectors.

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Alecks91
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I'll try to find more info on the pressure relief valve (unless you can explain it real quick) bc that high pressure bothers me.
Also, is there a way to just check (by ohming, check volts etc) the temp sensor ?
I ohmed the det sensor and got nothing on the sensor side, an correct readings on the ECU side. So someday soon I'll need to go about replacing that. Putting in the new PCV valves and O2 sensors either this afternoon or latter his week.
I'll be sure to chec back often and keep you updated.

*edit*
Just realized hat you said after re-reading your post. I'll be sure and readjust/check my timing and TPS when I get it to stop throwing codes at me, sense I recently tampered with both thinking they may be the problem.
Last edited by Alecks91 on Tue Jul 26, 2011 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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sydwyZ32
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try;
*the PTU connectors-they corrode (the fix-re solder them)
*spark plugs
*injectors getting stuck
*coil packs
*the wiring harness (in the front there are often troubles with frayed wires-u cant find it unless you open up the nice neat little tape and look at the wires... one of my issues had to do with that, it would go in and out of mis firing because of it-it was the wire on the front of the motor, one that connects to the cam sensor and the other that connects to the pass side front of the motor-sorry cant remember what it pluged into off the top of my head right now)

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Alecks91
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-Checked/Cleaned/Replaced the PTU and it's harness.
-Put new NGKs in the car
-Checked all injectors
-Checked all coil packs.
If after I do the PCVs and the O2 sensors it's still not running right, I'll check the harness. :)

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Alecks91
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Dove in to replace the PCVs and the O2 sensors this afternoon. Realized the hoses behind the valves had little metal fittings in them after one brittle hose broke in half, and after further reading discovered that the correct hoses actually needed to be ordered and I couldn't just use universal "pcv hose" from O'Reilleys....
SO, at about six this afternoon I ordered two new silicone hoses from Z1 and chose to have them over nighted since the car is parked and jacked up in the driveway =_=
If this doesn't fix it, I really don't know what else to try other than go through the fuel system to check for clogs and leaks. :(

GerryO
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Believe your ECM/engine will constantly be operating in a sort of "Safe Mode" until the KS Code is fixed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A couple of other items that have been mentioned.

EGR Temperature Sensor
Image
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14730-egr- ... 31154.html

REGULATOR ASSY-PRESSURE
Image
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22670m-reg ... 31359.html
Image

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Alecks91
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Fuel regulator is on my list of things to check/replace for sure.
After a little bit of looking , it seems my JDM engine doesnt have a spot for the EGR temp sensor? And when swapping the engine I don't recall seeing or noticing one. Can this be confirmed or am I just not seeing it?

GerryO
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Image

It threads into one of the EGR tubes.

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Alecks91
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Ok,
I changed the PCV valves and their hoses.
Changed the O2 Sensors.
And readjusted the timing using a plug wire on cylinder one (was running about 5 degrees after all that) :-&
Drove it a couple miles down the road and back and let it idle a couple more minutes, check the ECU, CODE 55! ^_^
She runs like a champ again:)

The idle still bounces a little on start up but not near as bad, but I'll look up solutions to that.
Thanks again for everyone's help!:)


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