Car needs to start, please advise.

[Chezedik]

My car is almost done, and ready to start. It is a 1991 Nissan 240sx 5 speed base model with KA24DE (computer #24). I have tested all ignition components all the way back to the computer. I am positive the distributor timing is good at the distributor within +/- 4' (will fix later). My injectors are spraying and pump is pumping (hard-wired Walbro, I can here that sucker pump). Engine cranks right, and dry compression numbers are a little low, but the car has never ran and it was tested cold (between 110-130, wet test was 210 +/- 10psi). Car wants to start and will kick off for a second, and then stumble and die.When I pull the plugs for inspection they have black goo on them (I assume this was washed off the intake mani from attempting to use starting fluid). They are also wet, and stink of fuel. I have gapped them down to .030" and spark is fine when checked visually (bright white at .030", golden-orange at .044"), although it has never been tested on a scope.My concern is mainly for the cyls. Of course, I have been cranking on them, it seems that there should not be enough fuel on the plugs to keep them wet. Am I wrong? Also, could a bad pressure regulator do this? I will be installing an adjustable unit tommorrow, as doing another test of the coil. I throw codes 11 and 34. 11 is for Crank Angle Sensor. I follow the trouble tree in the FSM and find that all of the parts check out. Also, it is a brand new transistor and CAS. I did harness checks and the harness is fine. Code 34 is detonation sensor. On the 240sx they tend to just crumble and that is what has happened here. No surprise. And this shouldn't keep it from starting, should it? In the past it has thrown 12 and 21 as well (MAF and Ignition Input Signal, respectively). I have also thoroughly checked the computer's ground and power circuits. While it is not bolted down, it does not seem to be a problem. Also, can a misadjusted TPS cause the car not to run?The car will need to be started very soon, or I will need to put it into a shop, so any advice would be a great help. Thank you all. BTW any more info you need, just ask.

[fiznat]

How are you sure that the dizzy is right? If you are off by a tooth, you'll get visual spark on the plugs but the engine wont start - like you're describing. This stands out to me as the #1 probable culprit.

Black spark plugs are never good. They are probably fouled at this point, and I'd reccomend replacing them one with some cheapies at least till you can get the motor idling. The fuel smell is good (means your fuel is working), the black stuff isnt great (unburnt fuel, carbon etc fouls plugs).

Get some fresh plugs in there, and start messing with your dizzy. If you've got fuel, spark, compression, and air, TIMING is your problem. No question about it. It may seem right but not start at all-- usually this takes me at least 3-4 tries and I've done it about 1000 times now.

1) Set the motor at TDC for the compression stroke on #12) Install dizzy so it is FIRING on the #1 spark wire. You'll have to insert the dizzy so that it is turned a little before #1 so that when the dizzy turns in the gears as you slide it in, everything lines up.

It's really a trial and error thing man, so go do some more tries!

[Chezedik]

The black stuff wipes off, but it seems like timing to me too. The thing is that when it sits for a while, eventually it will act like it wants to start, and then will not do it for a while. Like it's flooded. I don't know but this thing is going to kill me for sure.

[Chezedik]

Sorry about the double post, just trying to get a response. Turns out it was that the TPS was misadjusted and was showing 9.8K ohms. Disconnected the car runs great. Just requires a new throttle body, but I got a guy.

[DammitBobby]

Wow never would thought the TPS would cause it not to start. That is the first I heard of that. Glad you got it fixed.