I have a 1989 240sx with a rebuilt KA24E, it has about 15k miles on it, stock except for catback exhaust and Z32 fuel filter. A few days ago the car started to idle real rough after start up (400-500rpms) but after it warmed up a little it would idle where it usually does 750-800. So I changed the O2 sensor and replaced part of the wire because it looked cut I also replaced the water temp sensor. Next day I went out to start it and it start it and it did the same thing, and when the coolent gauge went to normal operating temp it ran fine.
Today I leave to do some stuff and at every light the car idles at 300-500 RPMs making the car shake like the engine wants to die. So I have to keep the rpms up so it doesnt die.
Now a couple days ago I check the spark plugs and they were white. Now at the time I didnt know what that meant, but now I do. Anyway after replacing the O2 and water temp they are a brownish color now. So I am not sure what that means. So if anyone has any ideas what could be wrong let me know ASAP. I also went through and check vaccum lines tonight and they are all connected and as far as I could tell all the electrical connections are made.
Also one more thing I did find something not connected, looked like a sensor by the oil filter, i know this may be a noob question but what is it? It had one wire connector and i saw the wire a few inches from it.
Car Keeps dying....
The sensor unplugged sounds like you oil sender. But if that was unplugged your oil warning light would be on.
It sounds like your having idel circuit problems. Most likely the air regulator located on the side of the intake chamber. It is half plastic and half metal with an electrical connector and a 1 inch hose on either side. Make sure the electrical connection is clean and free of corrosion.
It sounds like your having idel circuit problems. Most likely the air regulator located on the side of the intake chamber. It is half plastic and half metal with an electrical connector and a 1 inch hose on either side. Make sure the electrical connection is clean and free of corrosion.
Re: (NISTECH)
I check that today and it didnt help at all. Could a bad EGR valve be causing this?
Re: (gomer23)
Updated: I unhooked the hose from the BPT valve to the EGR and it made no change so i hooked it back up and still no change, i dont have a vaccum gauge so i cant test the vaccum on the BPT as of right now. I also tested all the injectors for ****s and all of them were 14ohms. So i dont know what else to do this is real annoying.
Also when I reved the motor the diaphram on the EGR does not move up but i can push it up myself and the car died last night when i tried that.
Also when I reved the motor the diaphram on the EGR does not move up but i can push it up myself and the car died last night when i tried that.
Re: (gomer23)
another update:
Ok well after messing around for 4 hourse today here is what i found that disturbed me:
-wires to Air Temp. Sensor were cut, or nearly cut-and 2 wires on the "pony tail" harness on the TPS were cut or almost cut.-wire to oil sender was never connected since i got it, not sure what that does exactly but its connected now
neither of which solved the low idle haha. but did help throttle response a TON.
As far as the idling issue goes, it stays running now, turns out some harness came undone and was making it do that. So the car will idle at like 400-500 rpms now when cold as it reaches operating temp it will go to where it usually does at aroud 700-800 RPMs. Every once in awhile it will drop down to 500ish rpms for about 5-6second but then go back up to the normal or nearly normal idle. So if anyone has any ideas let me know but for now the car runs and I am happy.
Ok well after messing around for 4 hourse today here is what i found that disturbed me:
-wires to Air Temp. Sensor were cut, or nearly cut-and 2 wires on the "pony tail" harness on the TPS were cut or almost cut.-wire to oil sender was never connected since i got it, not sure what that does exactly but its connected now
neither of which solved the low idle haha. but did help throttle response a TON.
As far as the idling issue goes, it stays running now, turns out some harness came undone and was making it do that. So the car will idle at like 400-500 rpms now when cold as it reaches operating temp it will go to where it usually does at aroud 700-800 RPMs. Every once in awhile it will drop down to 500ish rpms for about 5-6second but then go back up to the normal or nearly normal idle. So if anyone has any ideas let me know but for now the car runs and I am happy.