Alright, i drive a '92 240 and in the past 3 weeks i have had my thermostat replaced twice as the mechanic believed it was not letting the coolant flow through the engine. After about 20 min. of driving, the temp. gauge starts to go up, usually while im moving it doesnt affect it any, but once i stop it goes up fast, then i get moving and it will either go down or jsut hover. when i stop and pop the hood a LOT of coolant is in the overflow tank and some has even squirted out the little breather in the top of the tank. the mechanic used a napa replacement thermo. the first time and the second he used one from the nissan dealership. Both times with no positive results. Is there anything that you guys can think of to be the problem? Thanks for any help in advance.
Tyler
Car is overheating
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cowboyrps13
- Posts: 191
- Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 1:09 pm
- Car: 89 camaro, 89 240 hatch
What about your radiator and/or fill caps? They should be keeping the system pressurized; sounds like they're letting coolant pass. I assume no signs of a head gasket failure. The other suspects are bad water pump, bad radiator, or clogged cooling system. Replace the caps first...I usually don't like to throw parts a problem, but when they're cheap and easy like this, why not? Watch the temp gauge...best to stay close to home and be ready to shut the car off as soon as it begins to overheat, if new caps don't solve the problem.
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cowboyrps13
- Posts: 191
- Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 1:09 pm
- Car: 89 camaro, 89 240 hatch
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computerclone
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 10:59 am
- Contact:
Im having an overheating problem as well. I have a new radiator. New Thermostat... I have checked the thermostat in hot water (it opened) and its working but at this time its still not back in..
When I have the thermostat out I get about 15 minutes of driving time including idle belore it starts getting hot. Whereas when its in i get 5 minutes before it overheats.
My overflow blottle has some cracks in it...and when i put the thermostat housing back it does have a small leak.
I do have another rad cap but havent put on yet.
I bought a water pump but havent put in yet... I do see a liitle flow in the rad with the cap off. Which I didnt really see before.
I did have a radiator shop test the gases in the rad and he said it was a slight yellow but didnt thing that was enough to overheat the car..
I have only had the car for 2 months. It had some front end damage and since have fixed but didnt have any problems. Now that the dam body work is fixed its overheating..lol
the car does have 150,000
Im confused.. at this point....any new ideas...
When I have the thermostat out I get about 15 minutes of driving time including idle belore it starts getting hot. Whereas when its in i get 5 minutes before it overheats.
My overflow blottle has some cracks in it...and when i put the thermostat housing back it does have a small leak.
I do have another rad cap but havent put on yet.
I bought a water pump but havent put in yet... I do see a liitle flow in the rad with the cap off. Which I didnt really see before.
I did have a radiator shop test the gases in the rad and he said it was a slight yellow but didnt thing that was enough to overheat the car..
I have only had the car for 2 months. It had some front end damage and since have fixed but didnt have any problems. Now that the dam body work is fixed its overheating..lol
the car does have 150,000
Im confused.. at this point....any new ideas...
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
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computerclone
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 10:59 am
- Contact:
update
OK I have replaced the water pump... the impeller of the old was kinda thin... I have a new thermostat and new rad and it still overheats...
Does anyone know the location of the bleeder screw.. I cant find on this thing.. It does bubble a bit when I add water.. I have a feeling its just got air in the system.
I dont have any fliud in the oil.. No leaks around the head.
I had the rad guy check for gasses in the radiator and it turned a very very slight yellow.
any new ideas...
Does anyone know the location of the bleeder screw.. I cant find on this thing.. It does bubble a bit when I add water.. I have a feeling its just got air in the system.
I dont have any fliud in the oil.. No leaks around the head.
I had the rad guy check for gasses in the radiator and it turned a very very slight yellow.
any new ideas...
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
Fluid in the oil insn't a very good indication of a blown head gasket. Neither are leaks around the head. The bleeder is located on the coolant outlet of the motor(where the upper radiator hose connects). It looks like a 12mm(possibly 10mm) bolt. It won't have anything attached to it. Its just a bolt sitting on top of the upper outlet. \
Make sure you get all the air out by filling it til coolant comes out of the bleeder. Then reinstall the bleeder and fire the car up with the radiator cap OFF. Start the car and allow it to run until the thermostat opens. After the thermostat opens top the car off(still running) and close the radiator. That will get all of the air out.
If you still have problems try it again. If you still have problems, then you have a blown head gasket. If any exhaust gases are in the radiator that is a bad thing.
Make sure you get all the air out by filling it til coolant comes out of the bleeder. Then reinstall the bleeder and fire the car up with the radiator cap OFF. Start the car and allow it to run until the thermostat opens. After the thermostat opens top the car off(still running) and close the radiator. That will get all of the air out.
If you still have problems try it again. If you still have problems, then you have a blown head gasket. If any exhaust gases are in the radiator that is a bad thing.
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computerclone
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 10:59 am
- Contact:
Ok I found the bleeder screw..( thanks yellow ) I was blind as bat on that one....
First I have a buddy that wanted me to start the car for a minute while cool with the rad cap off to see if it bubbled.. and didnt. I then shut off..
I did exactly what you said opened the screw and filled until it came out the bleeder. Then I started the car with the cap off. It ran for about 15 or 20 minutes the gage was nornal a we bit over 2 clicks from C.
While waiting for the thermo open i noticed the idle.. it was about 600 to 700prm. The thermo never really seem to open.. While it was waiting to open the fluid was sitting at the top of the hole...very calm.. Then at the point in which the thermo should have opened it went down a little and boiled up... I then shut the car off topped off. I had the car off for 30 seconds enough to top off put the cap on and restart.
It ran for about 2 minutes at 2 clicks above C then start going up to 3/4 before I shut off... NOTE when it started up to 3/4 the idle went up to 1000....
What do you think....
First I have a buddy that wanted me to start the car for a minute while cool with the rad cap off to see if it bubbled.. and didnt. I then shut off..
I did exactly what you said opened the screw and filled until it came out the bleeder. Then I started the car with the cap off. It ran for about 15 or 20 minutes the gage was nornal a we bit over 2 clicks from C.
While waiting for the thermo open i noticed the idle.. it was about 600 to 700prm. The thermo never really seem to open.. While it was waiting to open the fluid was sitting at the top of the hole...very calm.. Then at the point in which the thermo should have opened it went down a little and boiled up... I then shut the car off topped off. I had the car off for 30 seconds enough to top off put the cap on and restart.
It ran for about 2 minutes at 2 clicks above C then start going up to 3/4 before I shut off... NOTE when it started up to 3/4 the idle went up to 1000....
What do you think....
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happyhourhero
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:40 am
i'm going to have to say a headgasket as well, especially if you have fliud rushing back into the overflow. does it bubble when it goes back to the overflow? any (white) smoke out of the tail pipes? sorry man that sucks, but atleast you only have to change one and can probaly do it youreself, i had to drop $1300 on my t-bird, for new headgaskets. i was lucky though they were only just a little leaky and i never overheated. if it is a headgasket, i would not drive or run it untill its done, coolant is not good for bearings and rods. you might want to look in to a new engine if yours has high miles.
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computerclone
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 10:59 am
- Contact:
I got lucky... Looks like it was the usual... air in the system. And a new clutch fan.. not bad 37 bucks... No smoke in the pipes.. its a little tired but I think is will hang...As long as I treat it like a car with 150,000 i should be ok.. I havent decided how much im putting into it yet... we see after a tune up... it does need a little body work..
But for now I have heat, ice cold AC for the Tampa heat and its cooling nice a needle under 2 clicks...
I didnt realize how much a tiny bit of air in the system would effect the cooling...
Today I took it to a shop and had it bled properly.. But the bleeder screw had no whole in it.. It did take 2 tries..I was told to replace the clutch fan and so off to the Autozone. It did fine as for cooling on the way and thought I should get it over with and replace the clutch fan.. Was very easy. Funny thing I discovered when putting the cluctch fan on. The second try the screw was left open just a 1/2 turn enough to let the bubbles out.. So i let it go and tighted all the way
It seemed to do the trick...:ylsuper
But for now I have heat, ice cold AC for the Tampa heat and its cooling nice a needle under 2 clicks...
I didnt realize how much a tiny bit of air in the system would effect the cooling...
Today I took it to a shop and had it bled properly.. But the bleeder screw had no whole in it.. It did take 2 tries..I was told to replace the clutch fan and so off to the Autozone. It did fine as for cooling on the way and thought I should get it over with and replace the clutch fan.. Was very easy. Funny thing I discovered when putting the cluctch fan on. The second try the screw was left open just a 1/2 turn enough to let the bubbles out.. So i let it go and tighted all the way
It seemed to do the trick...:ylsuper