Car is almost impossible to cold start

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
kikcaffine
Posts: 30
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:13 am

Post

So my car's recently started playing this game with me after installing the FMIC that it just does not want to start when its been sitting over night. I will crank for car for no less than 10 minutes to get it to finally stay running. It will sputter and cough inbetween when I first turn the starter and when it actually stays running. I've replaced the TPS and cleaned the IAC out (was full of oil, turbo blew from previous owner and everything got coated badly). I dont have a vac leak (i dont think anyway) because the car will hold a nice steady idle, but it will drop boost a tiny bit (about 1 pound) from when it initially comes into boost until redline. I have the car tuned with an SAFC-1 also. The FMIC uses all the stock SMIC piping but it runs across the front of the car infront of the crashbar (NO BUMPER CUTTING FTW!). Any help on what I can do to start tracking this down would be awesome!


Liquid_Neon
Posts: 690
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:06 pm
Car: 2000 Toyota Echo, 1988 Pulsar NX SE Turbo
Contact:

Post

I would start by checking over all of your connections, both piped and electrical again. make sure u didnt unplug anything or leave ANY pipe slightly loose of not all teh way on, trust me... a tiny lil gap in a fmic setup will cause big problems.good luck.

User avatar
Cams
Posts: 307
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:42 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 200sx CA18(DET) RS13
2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek JDM 4G63T (wife)
2013 Scion FR-S
2016 Infiniti QX50
Location: Panama, Central America

Post

Check for codes on the ECU. You might be flooding the engine with fuel at cold starts, and most of the time this is due to a bad Coolant Temp Sensor.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

And the bad CTS won't always show up in the codes.

Is the fast idle valve working? The car should try to idle up to about 1500-1700 when it's cold and you first start it, and then slowly come down after that.

The fast idle valve is the one right under the throttle body.

kikcaffine
Posts: 30
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:13 am

Post

No, I dont reckon it is. Ill check it when I get home to see if its plugged in or whats going on with it. You said its below the throttle body, is it directly below it?

Ill also probably just replace the water temp sensor, I can't imagine its an expensive thing to replace

drifting circles
Posts: 404
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:50 pm
Car: 240sx

Post

if you need a water temp sensor lmk. I have a few of them brand new

kikcaffine
Posts: 30
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 9:13 am

Post

drifting circles wrote:if you need a water temp sensor lmk. I have a few of them brand new
Thanks for the offer drifting circles, I can grab one from my buddy at napa and get it at cost. I appreciate it though!

Liquid_Neon
Posts: 690
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:06 pm
Car: 2000 Toyota Echo, 1988 Pulsar NX SE Turbo
Contact:

Post

I just noticed you said you have a safc, do u have that thing set to the right sensors in and out??

Again, if it started happening after u changed something... like installing a fmic, then make double damn sure u hooked everything back up right.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Yea, right below the TB. There should be a pretty big hose that comes out of it and connects to a nipple right behind the throttle body on the side of the manifold facing the motor.

bradt
Posts: 228
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:56 am
Car: 1989 240SX CA18DET
Contact:

Post

I had this issue too. I'm sure it was my CTS as well. My very odd fix until I replaced it? Duct Tape. I found out that when I cupped the MAF and restricted the flow, the car would smooth out until warm. Instead of sitting there like a retard covering my MAF, I kept some duct tape in the car.

I would take off my filter, cover half the opening start the car, finish doing morning stuff and let it idle, then when I was ready to go, all I had to do was take the tape off, replace my filter, and voila!

Once I changed the temp sensor, I never had to do that janky s*** again.


Return to “CA18DE / CA18DET Forum”