Car gonne crazy

[Tincho]

Hey guys,

I'm having a little situation with my car (93 SE) and I need your help to fix it. It's a long story but I'll try to keep it as short as possible. Two months ago, I tried to fix my rear brakes. Jammed bolts lead to kicking wrenches, kicking wrenches lead to shearing bolt, shearing bolt lead to friend drilling the bracket (floating part of the calliper), which lead to ruining the threads. So I had to replace the part and I couldn't find it anywhere (dealer wanted to sell me the whole assembly for a fortune). Extremely pissed (and poor), I didn't drive my car for two months. Blinded by my frustration (and stupidity), my alarm system drained my battery. I found the bracket yesterday, I replaced it but my battery had to be changed. This entire situation resulted into this:

1) ABS light on continuously (and the ABS is not working) and blinks (as if there was a short somewhere) when I brake2) Parking brake light goes on when I brake doing over 3000rpmand the gauges on my dashboard jump3) Power locks don't work when the car is not running4) Failure lights on the dashboard don't go on until I crank the engine 5) Sound system resets every time I start the car

I don't know where to start, so any help would be highly appreciated. And if you can't help me, I hope my stupidity entertained you!!!

Tincho

[Luke]

I don't know about the brakes, but you should try and check all of your fuses to make sure none of them are blown. That could cause the problems with the lights and stereo maybe. Not too long ago, i blew the fuse to the light that lights the cabin, and that had also somehow controlled the lights to the trunk and the clock in the gauge cluster wouldn't come on until i started the engine, and then it would return to 1:00 every time. Once I replaced this fuse the problems went away, just a place to start, sorry i can't help anymore.

[Tincho]

My clock goes back to 1:00 too. I checked some fuses, but not that one. Thanks for the help!

[MaineExport]

Gremlins..... they're a pain in the a$$ to get rid of!!

Just kidding, but it is unlikely that your brake job messed up you wiring that bad. I would check the wiring in and around your alarm. It totally depends on what KIND of alarm you have, but it is entirely possible that it could be the source of your problems.

[Tincho]

Went through my fuses and found a few burnt. My FL70 is burnt (big *** fuse situated inside the engine bay) What does FL stand for?

[wpg240]

Did you have a brake fluid leak when you fixed your brakes. I just went through a situation where my I replaced a leaking caliper. Once I replaced the caliper my ABS was coming on really easy then the light would come on and they would not work.

Finally after a couple of weeks and several car washes the problem went away. I can only assume that the ABS sensor was saturated in brake fluid and not transmitting properly. After a few washes (to clean it) it 's now fine

If your Brake light is going on it's a good indication that your brake fluid is low. The parking brake light on a 240 also warns of low brake fluid. (Ifound that out the hard way after ignoring the warning light for a week...thus the leaky caliper)

[Tincho]

I'll play with my fuses and alarm tomorrow morning to see what happens. I'll keep you posted

[rudeboy]

since you haven tbeen back in a while i'll assume you got everything figured out

[Tincho]

Actually, I haven't had the time to go get the fuse I'm missing (it's some special fuse). Dealer is closed so I'll do it tomorrow morning. Stay tuned.......

[Tincho]

Alternator fuse burnt......more to come.......

[Tincho]

The electrical problem was solved with a new alternator fuse ($10 for a friggin piece of metal!). Now, I think I found the brake problem. Due to the beautiful winter conditions we have in Canada, the calliper studs were rusted to the bone and they were stuck to the calliper bracket. They were so stuck that I bent the bracket trying to remove them (used a torch, rust remover, WD40......name it, I tried it). So I have to buy a new one, bleed all four sides plus the ABS actuator. By the way, there's one of the bleeding nipples on the ABS actuator that is sheared. Anyway to remove it without drilling? Easy out? I don't wanna drill and get metal dust in my line. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Tincho]

All the brake and electrical problems are solved. My ABS light is off and the car brakes pretty well. For the elect. part, it was the alternator fuse. The brakes, the bracket studs were jammed and there was some air in the lines. Now, the clutch.......

[hybrid_flyer]

Went through my fuses and found a few burnt. My FL70 is burnt (big *** fuse situated inside the engine bay) What does FL stand for?

ummm the FL stands for Fusible Link

[Ubernoober]

An easy-out would probably just split the bleeding screw. If there is enough space, you could get a small pipe-wrench around where the hex used to be. Be gentle. If you do get it out clean, replace it.BTW, if you never used a pipe-wrench before, they only grip in one direction. You probably already know this, but I cannot tell you the number of times I have seen them used wrong. The mind wobbles. Heh