Car dies when warmed up?
Car dies when warmed up?
When I first start the motor up cold it idles beautifully between 700-800, once it warms up (5 or so minutes) the rpms start to drop and eventually dies. I'll let it sit a couple minutes and start it again. Right away it starts idling at 500rpm and just starts dropping off and cuts out.Anyone know the reason it is doing this? I haven't set my timing yet could this be a factor? I just tried doing my timing but was unable to because once I got the motor warmed up the rpm's just dropped and died before I could accurately set it.I've tried adjusting the idle screw but mine is stuck for some reason and won't budge much unless you put a large pair of pliers on it.
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SpeedRacer1
- Posts: 3144
- Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
- Car: 1990 240SX, G35
There is a guy in Oregon who is having the exact same problem with the exception of the idle adjustment screw. Going by the FSM was not much help but here were their suggestions: Check fuel properties, check injectors, check spark, check FPR, lastly check ECU. If you want to see the exact steps they are on page 225 (EC-87) of the S14 SR FSM.
As for the timing, that could be it by my odd reasoning. Here was what I was thinking, when the engine first starts, the ECU sends the engine extra fuel for the cold start, as the engine heats up, the fuel is decreased and in your case the engine would wind up being starved because its not getting enough fuel. However thats just a theory of mine.
Here are the sensors that contribute to the IACV-AAC so these are the only things that would most likely affect idle except for a vacuum leak:CAS, MAFS, enging coolant temp sensor, ignition switch, TPS, park neutral position switch, air conditioning switch, power steering pressure switch, battery, and vehicle speed sensor.
As for the timing, that could be it by my odd reasoning. Here was what I was thinking, when the engine first starts, the ECU sends the engine extra fuel for the cold start, as the engine heats up, the fuel is decreased and in your case the engine would wind up being starved because its not getting enough fuel. However thats just a theory of mine.
Here are the sensors that contribute to the IACV-AAC so these are the only things that would most likely affect idle except for a vacuum leak:CAS, MAFS, enging coolant temp sensor, ignition switch, TPS, park neutral position switch, air conditioning switch, power steering pressure switch, battery, and vehicle speed sensor.
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iliketocrash
- Posts: 1109
- Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 5:58 am
i'm just kinda throwing things out there. i had a friend who had a similar but not quite as sever problem. when everything warmed up to OT and everything expanded, i guess it also expanded the cracks in his rings or something and f'd things up. i'm not a mechanic. i'm just trying to give ideas.
edit-i've one extra thing to add. when i had my KA it would do the whole cold idle thing fine but then when it would go to "normal" idle it would run really rough and usually die. It turned out my egr valve was stuck open and then there was some other small thing, but i can't remember. i don't know if this is relevant though. so sorry if its not.
edit-i've one extra thing to add. when i had my KA it would do the whole cold idle thing fine but then when it would go to "normal" idle it would run really rough and usually die. It turned out my egr valve was stuck open and then there was some other small thing, but i can't remember. i don't know if this is relevant though. so sorry if its not.