Well maybe someone here can figure this out, been almost 4 months since the problem started, and we and everyone else have not been able to figure it out, I've stumped a lot of people. here it is,
Car died one day after I had washed it, took about 10 cranks to get it running, but it wouldn't stay running, starting off in 1rst gear, it seemed as if the governor was kicking in, at 2000 rpm. Well I drove around later, and the car kept dieing at lights, and while I was driving it, it kept cutting out almost like it does when you hit 120, and the gov kicks in then when the rpms dropped a tad, it'd kick back in hard until it got back up to the rpm where it had cut out at. It would do it in any gear generally between 3 and 5k rpm. So I figure a sensor or something under the hood is loose or acting up, so I yank out the MAF and clean it and it still happens, so I go to the gas station and fill my car with gas since it was getting low. Well the problem was gone, or so I thought. It was gone for about 200 miles on a 400 mile tank of gas, it would start back up for about 20 miles, then smooth out finally and it would happen about every 75 miles after half a tank or 200 miles.
Over the past couple of months, we've replace the plugs wires, dist cap, rotor button, fuel filter, fuel pump to a WALBRO 255, fuel cleaner, and the problems still there. Except now it starts after about 75 miles on a full tank of gas, but whenever I fill the tank back up, it's gone for at least 75 miles. So it seems like something correlated with how much gas is in the tank.
Cars pretty mcuh unsafe to drive now cause it seems like whenever I need to get on it, it acts up and cuts out. Lately its been so bad that it cuts out every time I stop at a light. I can't fill up my tank every 75 miles to keep this from happening.
Anyone have any ideas?
Eric
Car cuts out??
If you can keep it from dying at light by keeping the idle around 2000 rpms, check your AFM. Get a salvage and see if the problem goes away ... unless the AFM from the salvage is bad (this happened to me which complicated my troubleshooting). I had the same exact problem you are describing, replaced my AFM, and all problems went away. Also per FSM if AFM is malfunctioning, it is possible to start and drive vehicle, but engine speed will not rise more then 2400 rpm, fail safe mechanism. Seems to follow w/ your description.
pin out the airflow(check voltages and grounds) you have 3 wires to it.one should read battery voltage one should read 0 volts and at idle one should read 1.3 to 1.5 volts. This wire is your input to the ecm when you snap throttle it should go to around 4 volts but you may not catch it if you volt meter does not have a high sample rate. just see if it climbs radically when you snap it. also when checking the 0 volt wire you wanna look at that closely if you read more then .02 volts on that wire you need to run another ground from that wire to the intake manifold. When you do this make sure you dont cut the original ground cause it will trigger a CEL since it nolonger sees contact on that wire at the ecm. best way to do it is to strip some insulation back about 2 inches from the A/F meter and solider it to the wire then wrap it with some of the sealing self bonding electrical tape to keep moisture off the connection.
no fuel tank issues will have nothing to do with afm operation. There have been incedents with fuel pump floaters I have delt with but it was on altimas and sentras. the fuel pump had become disloged from the bottom of the fuel tank and was literally floating around in the tank. it would suck air and cause the car to die. I believe your pump is mounted to the sending unit assembly though. besides you said you replaced it.
I am working off the assumtion that your description of fuel level is purely coincedence.
I am working off the assumtion that your description of fuel level is purely coincedence.
then your air flow meter is ok. Since that checked ok and is the #1 input source for fuel control the next one in line is the crank angle sensor located inside the dist. before you check this part. due to your what seems to be fuel level concern. try driving the car with the gas cap uninstalled see if this remeidies it. if it does replace the cap.
NISTECH, had 138 miles on a tank of gas today, I replaced the cap, and tried cranking it up, just barely got got it started after about the 6th try, and it was puffing out alot of black smoke, as if we were running way too rich, but then it wouldn't stay runnig, it would crank, I'd give it gas, rpms would rise and die, and it didn't matter how much I oressed on the gas, there was no response with the pedal. It would just die. After about 15 minutes of trying to start it, it stayed running barely, drove it right down the road to the gas station, filled the tank, only needed 7 gallons, cranked it up and it ran fine, will probably start up again in about 100 miles.
Yeah, I have confused everyone out here too, a good freind of mine at the Carrollton Nissan dealer he checked it out, checked for codes, and only pulled up the park neutral switch code, he drove felt it, it's at random rpms when I drive it, but the fuel level does affect it. What could be in the fuel tank clogging it, the walbro has the smaller pickup sock on it, shorter than the stock, thats what I thought it was until I pulled out the factory, and felt around inside, and felt nothing.
I guess I might have to drop the tank.
thanks again Eric
I guess I might have to drop the tank.
thanks again Eric
NISTECH, I have some new findings with my car, lately it has seemed to be getting worse, thought it was a bad battery, **** was leaking out of mine, so replaced it and hoped for the best, still there, well today drivng down the highway it happened excpet how it normally kicks back in this time, it wouldn't kick back in and it dropped from 65 to 25 and then I had to put on my flashers and pull over wait for traffic to stop then go back out only to get going 45+ and have it happen again and pull over. Well one of the last times it happened, I cut the ignition off, then turned it back on, not completely cutting it off but just going to the acc position, but when I cut it on the speedo would read 0 for like 5 seconds, and as soons as it went back up, it started happening again sporadically, and when it went for a long time again, I'd cut the keys back, and turn it back on, and it would be fine until the speedo went back up.
It almost sounds like a sensor somewhere, what do you think?
Eric
It almost sounds like a sensor somewhere, what do you think?
Eric
The speedo drops when i cut the ignition off, but when i cut the ignition back on, it seems like it takes 5 seconds for the speedo to read a signal, but for that 5 seconds before the speedo sees a signal the car doesn't cut out on me. I am running on a eigth of a tank now. But as soon as I refill it, the problem will go away for about 100 miles, then start back up again. It seems to really do it when I put a draw on the vehicle. If I am past 100 miles on a tank, and turn on the AC or Defroster, it starts cutting on and off real bad.
Eric
Eric