Well; I’m hoping to combine the power of many minds here. Needing some superbrain power...umm like combining computers.

Ok, I lifted my first generation Nissan Rogue and the angle of the axle is making the fins rub OR the stretch from the angle is prematurely wearing the cv boot more quickly.

I had the boots replaced so they were many years old but the angle was magnified after the lift.

So it probably sped up the boot splitting after my lift a year ago.

I’m thinking maybe it’s because of the angle or or friction, who knows.

Problem is I can’t stretch the boot because of some dumb part in the middle of the axle or get high angle boots for off road vehicles.

Here’s my idea with my new oem Nissan boots.

I’m considering wrapping the inner part between the fins where the split occurred with silicone tape that fuses together and withstands low & high heat.

Like an athlete that wraps their knee to prevent damage and creates added durability to their knee.

Well this is my hypothesis.

I’m not considering flex seal tape since I don’t know if it’s as soft as the silicone.

Just want to toughen that area without having to hopefully needing to replace boots all the time or spraying it with conditioner.

What about smearing with shoe goo until the valley on the boot disappears? Thick it up solid in there. Potential problems?

Love opinions.

Is there are any other ideas I should consider, please let me know. Thanks.

Depends if it's friction or stress causing the failure. If it's friction then a slippery material or coating or less pleats in the boot would help, if it's stress then a stronger material or more pleats would help. Without knowing the answer, only experiment may shed light on it.

Sherlock Holmes was famous for deduction. Most famously, "When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how unlikely, must be the truth." However, if you read the stories, Holmes real secret (and by extension Conan Doyle, despite being a weird guy who believed in faeries in the garden) was understanding the limits of deduction and knowing exactly when induction -- i.e., experiment and proof -- was called for.

Go get 'em, Holmes.

Duct tape

I just put oem. Did spray silicone on it for placebo effect.

Duct tape is too hard but a guy used flex tape on his split boot. It was ugly as hell.

I don't think I could get the duct tape to go correctly in the valley and I can't anymore since it's all squished together after installation.

I can do 1 high angle boot if my passenger side eventually splits.

The driver's side has some stupid contraption in the middle so no high boot there.

So I'll just 303 it or spray silicone to make me feel good at times.

Basically keeping it clean and dry for the most part. They split after lifts for the most part.

Use bike patches for cracks if possible.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:44 pm

Duct tape is too hard but a guy used flex tape on his split boot. It was ugly as hell.

I don't think I could get the duct tape to go correctly in the valley and I can't anymore since it's all squished together after installation.

I can do 1 high angle boot if my passenger side eventually splits.

You know, those two-piece glue-together boots actually work very well if there's nothing wrong with the joint. Just take your time and bond them carefully as intended. I had a pair on my Hyundai's outboard joints for over 35K before it went to the JY for other reasons. They held up well and never leaked a drop.

Yes , I had high interest in them and probably would do a decent job gluing both parts, but the greater angle would probably put greater tension than it would normally see, so I went with oem which is probably a higher quality rubber.

The restoration guy in me is screaming a lot of NOPE at almost all of the ideas floated thus far (except VStar's).

When you change the angle of the LCAs relative to the ground, you need to also change the angle of the tie rod ends to accommodate that (otherwise, you get wonky steering issues).

So, if you lifted the Rogue, by simply increasing the angle of the control arms (through taller / stiffer springs), you're going to need to modify where the rack sits in relation to the centerline of the LCA travel (ideally, they should be relatively parallel).

If that's not possible, you're either gonna keep eating boots (and the tie rod ends won't last like they should), or you're gonna break something in the rack. My suggestion would be to go to an off-road shop and find longer boots with the same inboard and outboard diameter holes (or relatively close). Remove the old boots, clean out the debris that has entered, and re-grease / reinstall boots.

Well the oem driver's axle has something in the middle where a high angle boot is impossible.

Anyways, it is less than a 2 inch lift, so supposedly it's within oem specifications and tolerance levels. There's that leeway. And my oem boots were old and could have failed anyways, but they say the new boot should get use to the new angle, but yes it will wear sooner because of the slight lift.

Yep, just replace the boots annually or every couple years.

You'll need to check the tie rod ends and wheel bearings more frequently anyway, so put it on the calendar!

So just inspected the passenger side, and now that boot is leaking. Well at least it happen around the same time.

So I ordered the high angle cv boot this time, since this axle has room for it unlike my drivers side.

But not messing with the outer this time, just the boot mod.

Maybe you could try spraying all the rubber suspension components with AT205 Reseal to keep them pliable and make them last a bit longer than if you didn't

I have a couple unopen bottles AT205 I was planning on using after the weather warmed up but then my inner cv boots split right about the same time 14 months after my lift. They were old anyways, but the lift probably sped the probability of it splitting slightly sooner.

I’m doing my passenger side now but with a high angle boot because this axle allows it to stretch unlike the drivers side with some weird contraption in the middle.

I didn’t use at205 since their new boots. But I did silicone spray for placebo affect. 303 on the passenger side old boot. Maybe at205 later on it.

Sometimes my ocd over analyzes things and I think dry and hard is not good because it can split. But also soft and flexible on a hard boot might split too since the soften parts could split with the hard parts.

Anyways, while the drivers side had the split in the 2nd valley from larger side the whole 360 degree separation. The passenger had a partial split on the first bellow from larger side outer part that sticks out.

The second time around should be easier and I’m keeping the old outer this time.

It's too bad that your old boots might be too far gone then.

This reminds me though, I should probably buy some reseal now that's it's warming up and I can finally work under my car.