Can't wait for the hate. Suspension question.

[Dirtbag]

Alright, the first thing I want to say is that I do not want to start any coilovers vs. shock/spring arguments so please pay attention to what I say.

I have attempted to search but most of the answers I am looking for have not been stated. Let me explain my situation first.

I have a 1998 SE. I got some Infiniti G35 wheels 17x7.5/17x8. I am running 225/45 and 235/45. I am experiencing some rubbing when taking turns but only on the wheel well cover. The tires are making contact with it. I assume that I need some stiffer springs to counteract this but there are a few things I don't want. I do not want to drop my car to be "hellaflush", I do not want to have RUCA and toe rods, and I assume that I do not want coilovers. This car will never see a track, it is a weekend driver at best. I do not need max performance and actually do want some comfort mixed with some looks.

Now for the questions. I see that most of the options out there offer a drop in ride height regardless of spring rate. What is the most drop we can have before having to upgrade RUCA and toe rods?

I don't care about wheel gap but I don't want to tuck either, is there a better option out there to eliminate some of the wheel gap but not all of it? I am happy with a finger or two of clearance.

I am looking to use KYB AGX shocks/struts for the ease of damping adjustment. Where do these shocks max out? I read 50% greater than stock for spring rate but I don't know of ride height.

If anyone actually has input on this shock with a specific spring then please let me know about the reliability with that spring.

I have explored options from NISMO S Tune to Fortune Auto. I don't know if the S Tune will offer enough of a drop and I am actually scared of the minimum drop of 1.8 in on the Fortune Auto. I don't want to have to get new tires just because I want suspenstion. I also want to leave my wheel well guards in.

I am looking to improve the car while maintaining a somewhat stock appearance. I don't have anything against all of these flush cars, most look amazing. It just isn't my thing. I know practicality seems to be a foreign concept here but please keep in mind my request.

Thank you.

[krash]

I have KYB AGX with RSR drop springs (1.5"-2" drop). 17x8.25 all around with 215/45/17. No splash guards up front, no rubbing anywhere. It may have worked with the splashguards but I didn't try it. I've had this setup for about 2-3 years now and I have no complaints

[Dirtbag]

Is there any need for RUCAs or toe rods at that height? I don't know if the S4 is any different.

[waxdnuggz]

If you lower your car at all you'll want rucas otherwise you'll be tearing up tires. If you want to keep the splash guards I suggest getting a smaller tire or trying wheel spacers. If your already rubbing and you want to lower it you will just rub more.

Waxd

[Dirtbag]

So what about the 'camber bolts' that are already on there? How low can you go before maxing them?

[waxdnuggz]

Anything lower then stock you cant use them to get back to factory spec there for use with factory springs and if you lower the car yes it'll help but not perfect. They only offer half an inch of adjustment

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Just look at your rear camber bolts now and see how much adjustment you have left. A little camber isn't a bad thing, so long as you don't have a ton of toe.

If you really don't want to fool with rear upper control arms, you could just get some coilovers and see how low you can go while maxing out your camber bolts and maintaining acceptable amounts of camber (which would be determined by you).

[Dirtbag]

So the only real way to tell is get coils and go on the rack?

[waxdnuggz]

You dont have to get coils but coils will allow you to determine the exact amount of drop and stiffness. I have tien springs and kyb shocks/struts on my car and the rear camber arms are maxed out. I drive around 800miles a week and im buying tires around every 2-3 months from camber wear. Its not bad camber but its not stock. I think im ~3° off of stock numbers. But you have to get an alignment after you put springs on because all 4 wheels will tow inward from the drop. If I were you and this is my opinion buy a set of camber arms from Godspeed for 100$ or isis for 125 it a worth it after 1 set of rear tires. I know you said you want to keep stock arms but if your lowering the car you obviously want the performance from the suspension and stock arms are old woth worn out parts new arms have hiem joints and are much much stiffer. You'll be glad you did it trust me.

[Dirtbag]

Well, what I am trying to say is the only way to tell the max drop on the bolts is to drop the car and test it.

I understand all that crap is 16 years old. Probably should replace the old a** components but it's just less effort on my part. That's all. If it's required I don't really have much of a choice.

It'd be nice to see a formula. Like 1mm of drop = 0.5* of camber.

[krash]

All stock everything except for the shocks springs. My tires are fine lol.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

All stock everything except for the shocks springs. My tires are fine lol.

Seriously
Just make sure your toe isn't crazy and you'll be fine. I shoot for 1.5 degrees of camber in the back and about .08 degrees of toe. You'll want a little bit of toe just so you aren't oversteering absolutely everywhere and your car isn't trying to kill you.

[Dirtbag]

That actually sounds quite fun. lol.

How much toe adjustment is really available on stock components?

[Hijacker]

Waxed, you have something else going on. Bent arms maybe if you're seeing anything greater than around 2.5+ degrees. I ran AGX/tein springs for near 10 tears and never tore up tires that fast.

FWIW, I had about a 2" drop with the tein s-tech springs, but the vert does weigh more, which plays into that extra bit of drop. The pic in my sig was on that setup if you want an idea of the ride height.

[waxdnuggz]

I'll have to look into that. Mine is about the same height as that. I'll get a pic up and see what you think