Guys, I need help.
Picked up my Q from the tire shop yesterday, and they could not get her within spec. AFAIK there has been no curb hopping, but I have hit some MONSTER potholes as a result of all the rain down here lately.
I'm posting the results of the attempt in hopes that someone can tell me if this can be corrected with the alternate tension rods. The complete report is attached as a .jpg Camber Caster ToeLF is -0.3 4.4 .12RF is -1.9 5.5 .02
I imagine I should probably add the cheap STB to pull the towers together, then try different tension rods to see if she will align. The shop recommends trying a local frame shop, but I'd really rather keep that as a last resort. Most places just don't understand the Q's suspension so I'd rather not tweak the frame.
Any/all ideas appreciated.
Can't get the Q Aligned
I don't know about the caster, but the camber is only adjustable by using shims, which wasn't the original intent of the design. Usually bad camber means your upper link bushings are deformed. How old are the links? The toe-in should be adjustable...I can't imagine they're at the limits of adjustment. Did they actually measure the frame before recommending a frame shop?
I think you need links, I had the same problem at one point and even a very good tire/alignment shop could not get it right, I would invest in a trip to the dealer to at least get the diagnosis right, you might then want to get the work done elsewhere due to cost, my dealer was able to sort this out with uppers and the correct alignment, the tire shop was not doing the alignment correctly, I forget why, it was some years ago.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Negative 1.9 degrees in camber means something is bent unless lowered..[as -0.7 is ideal].........after replacing the upper link, look to replace the third link and possibly the lower traverse link.
As to Caster it is the wrong way for the optional tension rods to work........[they require less on passenger side as they add caster].
Spacers behind the upper link mount are limited due to thread length [usually 0.5 deg can be removed]
As to Caster it is the wrong way for the optional tension rods to work........[they require less on passenger side as they add caster].
Spacers behind the upper link mount are limited due to thread length [usually 0.5 deg can be removed]
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greg_atlanta
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- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
Another way to think of it...... you can spend a lot of money (keeps adding up) fixing the alignment, but you can also keep buying inexpensive tires, rotate often (including side to side), and replace at 20K miles.
My left rear alignment has been off forever from hitting a curb in ice, after replacing several control arms and bearing the rear camber is at 0 (should be -1, I think). But doesn't bother me as long as I can get strong Yokohama tires for $45-70 each!!!
The steering isn't as sharp as it was from the factory, so I'd never really know if it was aligned perfectly anyways!
My left rear alignment has been off forever from hitting a curb in ice, after replacing several control arms and bearing the rear camber is at 0 (should be -1, I think). But doesn't bother me as long as I can get strong Yokohama tires for $45-70 each!!!
The steering isn't as sharp as it was from the factory, so I'd never really know if it was aligned perfectly anyways!
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
By the way my cambers are a perfect [for me] negative 1.1 both front and negative 1.4 both rears.Just takes a little work. I get an alignment every 6 months [$65 plus a $20 tip] to keep the rear thrust angle 0.00 as the rubber bushings wear.
That way I can see the camber change as the upper links wear [and need replacement ever 30k]..........1.1>1.4>1.5.
See how it starts skipping this and that: alignment, valve covers, shocks, mounts ---- pretty soon the car is a bear to drive and makes you tired after 4 hours behind the wheel.
That way I can see the camber change as the upper links wear [and need replacement ever 30k]..........1.1>1.4>1.5.
See how it starts skipping this and that: alignment, valve covers, shocks, mounts ---- pretty soon the car is a bear to drive and makes you tired after 4 hours behind the wheel.
Thanks for all the reply's I'm going to let the dealer (grrrr) look at it next week.
Dennis, what are the ideal values for the 90?I'd like to compare them to final values post dealer repairs.
Is there any value in adding the STB before the next repair attempt?
Greg, I wish I could just keep changing tires, but I use the Q for mostly long distances and having the alignment, even a bit off annoys the heck outta me. Just a personal thing, but for me, it's just too irritating.
BTW: The db2's have been great in the rain so far, big improvement in wet traction over anything I've had on it in the past 5 years or so.
Dennis, what are the ideal values for the 90?I'd like to compare them to final values post dealer repairs.
Is there any value in adding the STB before the next repair attempt?
Greg, I wish I could just keep changing tires, but I use the Q for mostly long distances and having the alignment, even a bit off annoys the heck outta me. Just a personal thing, but for me, it's just too irritating.
BTW: The db2's have been great in the rain so far, big improvement in wet traction over anything I've had on it in the past 5 years or so.