I'll just give a rundown because this just keeps causing problems.
RB20detstock turbo and injectorsFMIC3" exhaustwalbro 255Nismo FPR
Car will not idle correctly, it revs fine when out of gear.
It will idle at 1000-1100 once it warms up but I can not get it to idle below this, even turning it down all the way on the IACV area screw or on the ECU.When i unplug the TPS the idle shoots up over 2k and stays there.
When i unplug the MAf the car will not run right so I assume the MAF is alright... I cleaned the IACV valve also.
I replaced the TPS as the old one just made the car die if it was left to idle and the previous owner said to get a new TPS so I got a new one and it wont die anymore unless the car isn't warm.
When i accelerate around 3k the car sputters and is not smooth. When i let off the gas it kind of shudders. The FPR `DOES* need to be set down as the base pressure is prob around 44psi right now instead of 36-38? but the car ran worse be4 i installed it, just needs to be turned down. The fuel pump flows fine.
When going into first gear from a stop the gearbox tries to pop out of gear, i heard this is because it is maybe too rich on idle? or does it mean too lean, i heard one way or the other?
I just want this car to start running right so then I can get a couple new parts, tune and call it a day. Any ideas what in the world could be the problem here
Can't figure out what's wrong with my darned RB20. Any advice?
Re: (Carl H)
Here are a couple things to look at. It sounds like you need to go back and read the FSM section on setting the idle & timing and start all over.
You could have a vac leak somewhere, check all your connections and hoses. What did you do for PCV and the Fuel Tank breather (charcoal canister)?
Check out the air regulator, thats the part that bolts on near the fuel rail to the lower manifold. It has a wheel inside with a hole in it, so that when the car starts cold the hole is open but 12v is applied, according to the FSM, the hole must be shut within 7 minutes of the 12v application. If this is not functioning properly then it could be leaking air past the TB creating your high idle
Then you have an AAC valve on the back of the upper intake manifold that controls your idle. There is a section in the FSM for testing this part, you should take a look.
Your TPS is a 3 way switch; idle -> part throttle -> wot. There is another section in the FSM for testing the TPS voltage at idle, part throttle & wot.
iirc Your fuel pressure should be 43 psi without the vacuum attached to the regulator.
Your timing also has an impact on the idle you should double check that it's still set at 15 degrees with the TPS unhooked.
The FSM has a whole series of tests for various idle problems but these are the main components they all cover. GL
You could have a vac leak somewhere, check all your connections and hoses. What did you do for PCV and the Fuel Tank breather (charcoal canister)?
Check out the air regulator, thats the part that bolts on near the fuel rail to the lower manifold. It has a wheel inside with a hole in it, so that when the car starts cold the hole is open but 12v is applied, according to the FSM, the hole must be shut within 7 minutes of the 12v application. If this is not functioning properly then it could be leaking air past the TB creating your high idle
Then you have an AAC valve on the back of the upper intake manifold that controls your idle. There is a section in the FSM for testing this part, you should take a look.
Your TPS is a 3 way switch; idle -> part throttle -> wot. There is another section in the FSM for testing the TPS voltage at idle, part throttle & wot.
iirc Your fuel pressure should be 43 psi without the vacuum attached to the regulator.
Your timing also has an impact on the idle you should double check that it's still set at 15 degrees with the TPS unhooked.
The FSM has a whole series of tests for various idle problems but these are the main components they all cover. GL