Can't Clock Turbo (GT3071R) Oil Return is pointing straight up. Someone help.

[PyR0NiAk]

As you can see, the intake side is loosened all of the way. Literally, these are being held in place by a single thread. It's like the damn thing is locked in place by something besides the bolts.

[WDRacing]

To clock the center section you need to loosen the bolts that are holding the exhaust housing AND the compressor housing. Unless you're just moving the compressor that is. You might need to "break" it free, I use a hammer and a rag for a slight percussion adjustment

WD

[PyR0NiAk]

To clock the center section you need to loosen the bolts that are holding the exhaust housing AND the compressor housing. Unless you're just moving the compressor that is. You might need to "break" it free, I use a hammer and a rag for a slight percussion adjustment

WD

WD, You were just the person I was hoping would respond, (hence why I chose the KA-T forum for help on my SR's turbo) and I do appreciate it. I now have it mimicking stock perfectly. I ended up using a towel and a hammer to break it free.. That thing was TIGHT.

[WDRacing]

Yeah, I had to wack my old T3 that came from a 1990 RB20. That dude was frozen big time...

[PyR0NiAk]

Mine was brand new, so I have no idea why it was so frozen. Now I just have to find a oil return line. For some reason, noone seems to sell them, and there are no shops around here that makes them.

[WDRacing]

Here ya go homie. Click on Accessories, scroll down to basic oil drain kit.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

[PyR0NiAk]

Here ya go homie. Click on Accessories, scroll down to basic oil drain kit.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

One more stupid question, and I'm done. This is a T2 Flanged GT3071R. Which one of these kits would it be?

1) TK139 TD05 & GT flg

2) TK168 T25/28

[WDRacing]

Hmm...yours is a ball bearing, I think it's the 168 but I'd call those dudes just to make sure.

[PyR0NiAk]

K, the reason I was confused is because I tried to match up the oil drain from my T25 and it's a definite no go. Nowhere near being the right size. It couldn't even be fabricated to fit.

[WDRacing]

Huh...what about the flange wouldn't fit? Where the 2 bolts secure it to the drain? OR?

[PyR0NiAk]

The line appears to be the same size, but the bolt holes are offset to the point that I'd be drilling and making an oval that intercepts the original holes instead of just making separate holes... I'm scared that may cause a leak.

In this pic, the hose is lined up, but you can see both bolt holes are offset toward the outside.

[motoman399]

it should be fine to oval the holes as long as the center drain still has sealing surface.

[nelson8708]

in your first pic there is a drain flange on the turbo, you can't go out and get a barbed fitting for it? Measure the distance between the two bolt holes to figure out what flange you need, i'm betting its a t3 drain. The distance from bolt to bolt is 1.65" iirc on a t3 drain.

-Nelson

[PyR0NiAk]

i'm betting its a t3 drain.

Hit it on the head. Thanks

[Chris28]

Wait! I had the exact same problem when I ordered my earl's fitting for my drain line. If you want to measure yours here are my measurements. Blue is earls, other is stock.

[PyR0NiAk]

And where did you get your earls fitting?

[WDRacing]

I would use http://www.summitracing.com for earls fittings.

[Chris28]

Yeah I ordered it from Summit. Awesome prices, and you can't beat their shipping. If you use Summit's line of earl's type fittings it's a lot cheaper.