Can someone measure the distance between the front struts? (FSTB mounting prob)

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chinaonnitrous
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Im having trouble installing Jeff Williams FSTB, ive tried a ton of ways to put it in, but the bar is a tad bit long. Rather than ship another one. I want to confirm the car itself doesn't have any frame issues.

from the middle of the top struts (measured the head of the strut under the black plastic cover), is exactly 40 1/4" from middle to middle. Can a few people confirm this?

My bar could be a tad long (already talked to jeff), but I want to see if this works out.

Ive tried installing the bar with both ends all the way in, as well as the lock nuts, and its still about 1/3" too long.


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elwesso
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Try jacking the car up and then install it..... Wheels OFF the ground.

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goody90q45
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Mine also looked to be about a 1/2 bolt short and I came close to calling Jeff before I figured it out.

I was able to engage threads and finger tighten 3 of the bolts. Do both on one strut to within a couple turns of tight. Everything should start to line up as you tighten the 3rd nut. As you are tightening get the 4th nut started (I had to tug on the bar to get the 4th hole lined up) and eventually the bracket will lower into place. It looks like the bracket will gall the threads as its being tightened but all 4 bolts went on very easily. Jacking up one side will surely spread the struts and make this process easier. Good Luck.

chinaonnitrous
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I'll give that a shot again....i only tried putting it on one way while the wheels were up....

chinaonnitrous
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goody90q45
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Looks exactly like mine did. Put the chrome bolts back in loosely and follow my steps in the previous post. You'll be able to make it work.

chinaonnitrous
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goody94q45 wrote:Mine also looked to be about a 1/2 bolt short and I came close to calling Jeff before I figured it out.

I was able to engage threads and finger tighten 3 of the bolts. Do both on one strut to within a couple turns of tight. Everything should start to line up as you tighten the 3rd nut. As you are tightening get the 4th nut started (I had to tug on the bar to get the 4th hole lined up) and eventually the bracket will lower into place. It looks like the bracket will gall the threads as its being tightened but all 4 bolts went on very easily. Jacking up one side will surely spread the struts and make this process easier. Good Luck.
Hmm, that will definatly work, since i had it at that point already pushing down on the bar. It took alot of force to get that 4th nut on the strut tower, so I didnt finish it. I've never installed a FSTB this tight before, so it took me by surprise.

I thought normally, when the car is at rest, and you install the FSTB in a "snug" position, your cornering will load up the FSTB with the twisting motion. It just seemed to me, with it being this tight, the immense pressure due to the cars weight/lack of stiffness would cause the steel threads of the hats to ruin the aluminum bar.

But if everyone's had this same experience, and its worked out...so be it. I'll force my bar down into place.....

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Ozzie
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This is good info to have before i try to put mine on.....Thanks guys!

I hope my modified end plates won't make the job harder!

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Peterofdevon
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This is interesting...I had my tech intall it on Fri. Said nothing to me about any fit issues. The car is handling like a dream, BTW. I changed lanes at 90MPH on a fast two lane sweeper off 95 last night and the car was so tight and contolled with no body roll that I cut in and out of the lane two more times to get the rush---thanks Jeff!

But: IF when installing it with wheels up...does this change the allignment?

My tech did an allaignment after the FSTB install and said it was "way out". But, he did the struts and and dogears as well (see my other post) so this may have been the reason.

Peter of the 3Qs

maxnix
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Peterofdevon wrote:My tech did an allaignment after the FSTB install and said it was "way out". But, he did the struts and and dogears as well (see my other post) so this may have been the reason.
Define "way out" with numbers please. The bar installation should not affect alignment. You have something else seriously worn.

I know when Greg did his, he only relieved some spring pressure, he did not elevate the car completely.

I think in a previous post someone linked to a post on the Porsche board where the tower movement without the bar was inward, and not outward as asssumed by most. Something to think about.
Modified by maxnix at 12:13 PM 12/4/2005

DrewQ45
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China,

Some ideas here... hope one works

By the pics, you don't have far to go. Just grab the end of the bar, apply some muscle and maybe it'll line up enough for you to slide it it. Better yet, tighten the hat down then stick a screwdriver through the holes and use it as a lever to line up the bar. Don't stick the screw driver all the way through...leave enough room to push through the pin/bolt. Last idea... put something (like a small block of wood on top of the plenum under the center of the bar then push down on the end of the bar to apply a gentle bend....the wood should act as a fulcrum and allow the bar to bend.

As far as alignment, the bar should actually reduce the tendency of the Q to wear the inside ege of front tires especially during turns when the strut towers tend to lean.

...Drew..

gloucester Q
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i bored out jeff's mounting holes by about 1/16" more and that took care of it. my personal opinion is that the diameter of the clearance holes was too tight given the tolerance of lining it up to the struts.

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Rex
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DrewQ45 wrote:...the wood should act as a fulcrum and allow the bar to bend.

As far as alignment, the bar should actually reduce the tendency of the Q to wear the inside ege of front tires especially during turns when the strut towers tend to lean.

...Drew..
WOW, WOW, WOW, fulcrum used in a post and spelled correctly.

China - it does trake some effort or gentle force to get things to line up, and I think the older/high miled the Q, the more benefit and difficulty.

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elwesso
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Please define "way out"... The FSTB can change alignment specs but it shouldnt change it much... id say hardly noticeable.. the FSTB in theory will increase camber (thus reducing negative camber).... But it should hardly be noticeable...

My guess it was "way out" before...

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Peterofdevon
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I'll ask the tech about it, but I assume it was way out before the bar was put in with the amount of wear to the right front sus parts and tire...just thought I'd throw it out there for discussion.

Peter

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elwesso
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let us know what your alignment specs are

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Jeff Williams
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I had some initial trouble with the first few, but trimming the end of the aluminum bar did the trick. I could have trimmed another 1/4" off the end of the bars, and should have. Drilling out the hols a bit will help.

I had success assembling the bar but not tightening the bolts, then puting it on.

1/4" is a little much. What will happen, is the hats will bend a bit from the pressure of the bar.

Another idea I had, was to trim the lock nuts. There is about 3/16" of the nuts that is tapered, and basically there for looks. This would allow you to screw the ends in the bar a little more.

I will make sure the bars have more adjustment in the next lot.

Thanks for the feedback, and I will cover all return shipping, if you want to send it back to me for any modification.

My struts are exactly 40 1/8" from center to center on Layla.

chinaonnitrous
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I gained about 90% of the space needed by raising the car on jack stands.

The rest of it was just pressed down, and it worked. I will be looking for different lock nuts that would yield me a tiny bit more room since the lock nuts seem excessive.

Thank you Jeff, it was a pleasure talking with you on the phone, and thank you for your hard work.


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Magnum PI
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Mine went on in about 5 minutes. I did not take off the bolts between the bar and the mounts, just left them loose and pushed the plates down on the strut towers, and reinstalled the nuts. Tightening up the remaining bolts was a breeze. Only question I had was why metallic blue for the plates? Otherwise bravo Jeff, a great addition to a great car.

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Jeff Williams
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Magnum PI wrote:Mine went on in about 5 minutes. I did not take off the bolts between the bar and the mounts, just left them loose and pushed the plates down on the strut towers, and reinstalled the nuts. Tightening up the remaining bolts was a breeze. Only question I had was why metallic blue for the plates? Otherwise bravo Jeff, a great addition to a great car.
The ones he sent mer were that color. so I kept them that color. The next batch will be red and the bars have "COURTESY NISSAN" on them. I think it can be polished off, though.

What color should I paint them? I was thinking Ivory Pearl Quartz, with a nice clear coat. If it wasn't cost prohibitive, I would powder coat them a nice black or silver like the intake.

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elwesso
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Yeah and re engrage NICO on them, or Wes Stinson, or something cool.......

Just paint em black... white IMO would look kind of stupid.

chinaonnitrous
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Yeah, not white.......becuase im sure most people...when leaning over the engine bay will grab the Stut bar first to get balance. Atleast I do. Can you imagine all the hand prints and grease stains
elwesso wrote:Yeah and re engrage NICO on them, or Wes Stinson, or something cool.......

Just paint em black... white IMO would look kind of stupid.


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